NorthWet

With cylinder liners, the manufacturer can select a material with optimal wear characteristics for the application. With cylinders that are native block material, it is a real compromise biased towards block structural strength instead of wear properties.

Ditto. And DEFINITELY replace your rings.

Shouldn't need N/A heads, as turbos should work, too. I do not hink that there are any differences between turbo/non on disty-side head, and the non-disty side just has some extra passages/fittings. Heads swap side to side, and there are more disty-side heads floating around (as non-disty seem to die from exhaust port cracks more often). Might consider using the turbo cams with less valve overlap. Not so great for N/A power, but better for economy and emissions. Turbo manifolds should be plentiful. No real difference between them and a non-turbo MPFI, except maybe an extra fitting or two. The multiple-spark advantage of MSD goes away with increasing RPM (not sure where with MSD), but still MSD might be an improvement over stock system. Single-spark CDI is good for fouled plugs, but its short duration spark is not so good for normal conditions. EDIS is wasted spark. The system used on EJs is wasted spark. How about sending a couple of thiose "dime a dozen" coil packs my way??

An R180 is a direct swap in, available under any Datsun/Nissan "Z". R200 might also me a direct bolt-in, but I haven't tried... yet.

I can't remember offhand if there is a difference, compression wise. SPFI are more common, so I think that is why they are most often recommended. Forged pistons aren't going to affect your mileage, unless they are higher (but still workable) C/R. After higher compression, the biggest single thing would have been a better fuel management. The Subaru system, especially earlier versions, were relatively primitive and erred on the side of caution (and emissions). Might be good for 10-15% improvement. Something to think about down the road. I am not sure what is available as options for rings. Once upon a time I think that it was claimed that Moly coated/filled rings had less friction than chromed rings; might be bad memory or Old Wives' Tale. If there is a difference, it would be minimal, especially at our low piston speeds. Regarding the cams, the only ones that I have seen FSM specs on was from an 85 FSM. (And that FSM is on loan at the moment.) In general, turbo cams have very little overlap. And, there is gearing... but you said engine.

Lots of fabwork. Have to deal with the large increase in weight. I am not sure if there is enough engine bay length to accomodate the v8.

Consider using the turbo cams on the non-turbo block. The decreased overlap should provide smoother running and slightly less wasted intake charge and/or less charge dilution; it will also give you a higher effective compression ratio. It will cut down on mid-to-high-rpm power. Standalone, TUNABLE ECU would be useful, and some better form of ignition. I would prefer a distributorless type, just for it being potentially more accurate than something sitting at the end of a shaft that is driven by the end of the camshaft that is driven by a resilient drive system off of the semi-resilient end of the crankshaft. I personally would not even try the previously mentioned break-in procedure.

Which way do you install the dished washer? Correct way is convex outwards towards castle nut. If it is the other way, it will not put proper pressure nto the cone washer. What did you torque the castle nut to? IIRC, 145 ft-lbs is the correct value; most books say like 105.

The laptop is a 166... marginally better than my existing laptop, but nothing to write home about. (Reminds me of a funny memory. Some years ago, businesses in Silicon Valley were gettng burglarized, and all that was being taken were the new "hot" processors in their computers. Criminals were risking major felony charges to steal 33MHz 386s...)

Nitpick: That is the inlet to the waterpump. You *might* be able to epoxy something in, but any fitting you are likely to come up with to do this will reduce the diameter of the tube.

No, the laptop is still unclaimed. uncoolperson said that his was already with him, safe at home. English is SUCH a tricky language...

It is possible that an intake/carburetor gasket leaked water into the intake while the car was sitting for those few months. This water could have found its way past the rings and into the oilpan, turning to goo when you started and warmed up the engine. The downside of this scenario is that if the coolant didn't have fresh antifreeze/corrosion inhibiters, the amount of corrosion damage to cylinders, rings, and HG might be significant.

The injector bosses and dual intake ports should give it away.

Not wishing to cause an argument, but what makes you think that this will damage the engine? Hopefully, it is not the "warp the valves" old wives' tale.

Heaven forbid that your dry ice be brittle! BTW, I can help you find some fluorescene to make your PGI the right color. And I am SOOOOOO glad you gave up that ethylene glycol habit.

"To Err is Human. To really screw things up requires a computer." The heavy emphasis/reliance on "computerized" parts lookup is at the root of this, as everybody was in a hurry to get "online" and didn't worry whether or not it worked. Since EA81 and EA82 production/import overlapped, the parts person needs to be able to input the distinction into their computer terminal. But the computerized parts lookup at every store I have been to does NOT make a distinction. They do always ask if it is a 1600 or 1800, though. :-\ Calebz's advice is a good start. Or, tell them to forget the terminal and grab the books. And bring the part, too.

Wyou will drain about half by pulling the drain plug. (Most of the rest is in the torque converter.) I have had the pan off of several 3ATs, and I have yet to see a reason to clean or replace the screen. I have removed the screen to disassemble and clean the valve body, bu the screen itself should be OK unless the pan is damaged and/or you know the screen is damaged.

The canister is located in the engine compartment, on the back wall of the compartment, behind the strut tower on the "right" side (as viewed from the driver's seat). It is a milky-white canister of perhaps 250ml capacity with vacuum lines running to it. Its purpose is to "store" vacuum for use when the engine is not producing strong enough vacuum to operate the ventilation controls. The canister develops cracks that admit air into the vacuum reservior. Check it for visible damage, and check to see if it will leak if pressure or vaccum is applied to it.

The XT that I am currently replacing headgaskets on presented pretty much the same way: Stated it cold without problems, would ping on accelerating out of my driveway, temp gauge would start to climb and oil pressure dropped to nothing. Cooled off, and everything acted fine. When hot, the radiator was cold, even after t-stat change. Undid radiaotr cap to half on (pressure relief, and the car would go further before it would start to overheat, and radiator core was evenly warm. What I figure is that the HG had started to leak into the water passages, but only under pressure. This pressurized the cooling system and caused it to air-lock; half-closing the rad-cap allowed the pressure to bleed and the coolant to flow. When I pulled the heads, the HGs did not show super-obvious signs of having blown; but I could see a liitle carbon-ish streaking towards the water passages. Later, I hand surfaced the heads (not recommended way, but budget is tight) and the heads' sealing surfaces were heavily eroded where the HGs had blown.

What did they say that they would not do? A "power flush"? They may not do a specific procedure due to the design of the way the subie handles fluid to its cooler. And if they can't/won't do a "power flush", they probably won't do a simple pan drain (only gets approx. half of the fluid).

Having just measured a Gen1 Brat and an EA82, my question would be, "How do you plan on fitting the engine between the frame rails?"

I was thinking more like, "How the @#$% could you fit any tall tires under your lowrider???"

Yeah, sure, whatever. Where you going to find 50-series paddle wheels for YOUR XT6??? :-p

No problem, just the thought came to me while doing an HG job (well, I am still doing them :-\ ) that the manuals make a point of telling you not to lay the HLAs on their sides, and if you do that you should do something special to them. So, I was thinking that there are so many things that we get away with but should do differently (how many times have you read about somebody doing valve-job on their Soob?), that perhaps there might be a better way to deal with the HLAs than we do.

First, I have got to finish the double-HG/reseal on an XT that I have been working on for 3 weeks too long.