NorthWet

My NAPA, maybe. NAPA in Anna/Versailles area... I dunno.

It should be the same.

Ask a hotrodder "degreeing in a cam" and they are likely to tell you that the most useless use of TDC is on the pistons compression stroke. Nothing significant is happening then, just the spark event(s), and that(they) can be considerably off without major effects. I was not trying to impress anyone with how much (or how little ) I have read, just that what might be "fashionable" today is not representative of what has been considered standard terminology for a much longer period of time.

All of the manuals and references that I have bothered to read (not too much of that in the last 25 years of wrenching) have qualified TDC with "on the compression stroke" when they needed something having to do with the compression stroke. Otherwise, TDC refered to piston position, not piston position relative to the rest of the engine. The timing marks of most engines refer to TDC purely by piston position. From a purest, mechanical point of view, TDC is just that... not qualified by anything outside of crank, rod, and piston.

Sure they can: Using leaded fuel in a CatCon equipped car is still a Federal crime. Anyways, I am sure that they would make up some special charge just for YOU, a known Ne'erdowell and Disturber Of The Status Quo!

Ummm... 12V is not ideal, though it may be "normal" at the dash meter. Ideal is 13.2V, the nominal voltage of a 6-cell lead-acid battery (aka 12v car battery).

Well, as I said, don't borrow trouble trying to guess what it is. But if I were to guess... *doing my best Great Carnak impression* I predict that it is your front wheel bearings.

I make no claims to being smart... just that I have lots of experience and know my way around PCs and operating systems. If you could convince a chimp not to spend so much time throwing its poop it could be just as "smart" as I am. Well, the car has been parked in my backyard since WCSS7, since my son is taking driving school and driving Christine (with a 3AT) and I don't have enough room out front to park both at the moment. So, unless my Labaradors mugged a boy, I don't think that it got to me since WCSS7. As far as where the body(bodies) is(are) hidden, why don't you come and check out my 10 thickly wooded acres...

The problem with that is that the temp sender is on the "hottest" side of the system, and the radiator cap is on the coldest side. Could be a rather large difference.

The camshaft drive gears would be about the last thing that I would worry about with an EA81 engine. Find out what parts the mechanic is going to replace (should be on his estimate), and let us know. Much better than guessing and "borrowing trouble".

EJ-based should have AWD, so no PB for 4WD, etc. My 91 Legacy has a 2-piece driveshaft, but the rear portion is not removable like an EA82's is. (It does nopt have bolt-together flanges at the center bearing.)

Disconnecting the lower hose will help get old fluid out, but not particulates/sludge that is on the inlet side of the radiator. Edrach's suggestion to pull the radiator is the best method to get that stuff out; might also "backflush" the radiator shile it is out and standing on end. Also, please note that about half of your old coolant will still be sitting in the engine even after you pull the radiator.

Miles somewhat mistyped: Without the pulses the fuel pump will not STAY on; this is a safety precaution to prevent pumping high-pressure fuel while the engine is stopped (like, if you are upside down or your fuel line is severed...). The pump should come on for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition switch, to precharge the system, regardless of the state of the distributor.

Aw! C'mon! You've got the best gas additive that this Country can grow!

Even made my kids laugh!!!

Nope. It describes how the valve actuation is driven. The 3 major ways is by gear, chain, or toothed belt.

Emissions-era carbs tend to have the "reverse"-mixture screws that galopagus described. The bad news is that just effects the idle mixture. Make sure that the carb(s?) is clean (especially the air bleeds in the air horn) and that the float-vavle is properly set. Also, is this a (are these?) feedback carb(s)? Without the feedback working, the mixture will be slightly rich.

Assuming the vehicle still has its EA71/81 engine, then no it doesn't have a timing belt. It uses a gear-driven cam.

Well, froggymike is not the only one with clear thinking issues. I just realized that all we had to do to get pictures of the white XT was to roll the white wagon forward. Maybe tomorrow... when we (attempt to) retrieve my Xmas/Bday present.

You can't forget horsepower. Steady state cruise uses the same amount of HP, not torque (except as measured where the rubber meets the road). Torque curves are somewhat irrelevant, as they measure MAXIMUM torque that the engine is able to generate at any given RPM. Maximum implies wide open throttle, a condition that is not the case at steady state cruise. In different gears the generated HP will be the same but the torque requirement will vary inversely with the engine speed. The developed torque varies with the effective VE, blah, blah, blah.

It's in most stores in the area, at least the ones that have shelf space to spare. Should have asked me, as I probably had 2-3 half-cases in my car at WCSS7. I was first introduced to it 8-9 years ago, when a coworker from the Minneapolis office told us about it and "smuggled" some back to us. I remember one trip where he lugged his HUGE suitcase into the office and opened it to reveal like 8 cases of Diet Mt. Dew. The laptop was buried under about 2 cases-worth of crushed empties. (My "empties" box tipped over.)

Is that 4x as safe as a tank full of C4???

Copper has a higher thermal tranfer rate than aluminum. If you are "in" to computers at all, this is why the high-end heat sinks are either copper-core or solid copper. Aluminum is used instead of copper for 3 main reasons: 1) it is cheaper 2) it is lighter 3) it is cheaper I know that 1 and 2 are the same, but I thought it was important enough to mention it twice.

As in many things, it depends... It depends on what induction system you have, and how it handles mixture under load. If we are talking carburetor, and that carburetor has a "power"/"economy" valve, then if you are loading the engine to the point where the manifold vacuum drops to the point where the power-valve opens and enriches the mixture, then specific fuel consumption will increase and fuel mileage will decrease. If it is an EFI system, it depends on how the ECU reacts to low manifold vacuum conditions. I tried running my EA82T in 4th gear to stay off of boost (and resulting open-loop enrichment), and ended up with worse mileage then in 5th and on boost. "Ya pays yer money and ya takes yer pick!"

The cooling ability of an aluminum radiator is inferior to that of a copper/brass one.