NorthWet

That's why doG created roof racks!

Japanese Engines, Inc in Lynnwood should be able to get you one (as should several others). That is where I got my carbureted one. It is possible that they just don't have one in stock at the moment; not an uncommon situation. They would also know if a carbureted engine would work with your injection gear (you usually need to swap external components anyways). I have never had any issues with my JDM engiens/transmissions. Inside of their sealed containers, probably completely surrounded by other sealed containers, I doubt that there is any real problem with damage form sea air. No more so than anything else that we get from Asia... like our Subarus...

Power supplies are easy. Well, at least linear ones. One word: Reverse-polarity protection. BTW, do you still have any old ECUs kicking around?

Holley-Weber 5200, IIRC. Very well could be the "holley something" that the guy was talking about. You have lots of options, just depends on what yo want and how much work you want to do. One of the Members just put a Holley 4600-series 4 venturi carburetor on his EA81. Stock carburetors from a miriad of Nissans and Toyotas will work... maybe even from a Honda! One seemingly major thing to look at is throttle cable routing, as certain throttle linkages work better with a "standard" Subaru cable routing than do others. Might be different with your application.

This information is for USA models, per US Department Of Transportation regulations. I would be careful about assuming what other countries' regulations allow on Subarus.

Two issues not yet considered will effect power. The first is that because most LPG applications evaporate the LPG into its gaseous state, it physically takes up more volume than liquid gasoline. A gasoline carburetor atomizes gasoline rather than gasifies it, so most of the gasoline stays liquid and doesn't expand to its full gaseous volume. What this means is that the gaseous LPG displaces some of the air that the engine intakes, lowering the volumetric efficiency of the engine by some 10-15% (IIRC). The other point I mentioned earlier, is that LPG has a lower energy content and slower burn rate (flame speed). The lower energy content implies that, compared to gasoline, more LPG needs to be used to get the same A/F ratio, further displacing air and lowering volumetric efficiency. And the slower burn rate means that more energy will be lost due to advanced ignition timing or continued burning after the exhaust valve opens... UNLESS the engine is optimized for LPG (e.g. higher compression ratio).

Most frequent mistake is not turning the crankshaft one complete rotation between installing the driver's side belt (the one with the distributor) and the passenger's side belt. The second most common seems to be using timing/TDC markings instead of the 3 adjacent lines. Note: This will not work if the passenger side belt is not installed correctly.

Should be doable. Most of what you have outlined sounds right... but since I haven't done it, so what do I really know? The Spider manifold will require that you lose your spare tire, and also requires the XT engine pitch stopper (aka dogbone).

Welcome! And, yes, the Justy is sort of thought of as a step-sister here. Too bad, because it is a pretty neat car. I would look into getting a "JDM" (Japanese Domestic Market) imported used engine. Japan has some odd laws, and one requires replacing engine and transmission after short mileage (approx 40k miles). These engines are crated up and imported into the USA. Here on the West Coast, we have quite a few importers, and the Justy engine I bought 2 years ago was about $425. Or, if you are mechanically inclined, you could rebuild it yourself, though parts pices will kill you.

I would be more concerned about the top-end than the bottom-end. You should seriously consider going to better engine-management elctronics.

As mentioned by Bucky92, it is possible that it is coming from the metal tube that is the water pump inlet from the radiator. It is above the pump centerline, and is a slip fit into the water pump with an o-ring seal. This seal occasionally fails to seal, and difficult-to-trace leaks occur. Regarding the waterpump, is there a visible coolant-stained trail coming from the weep-hole? (All of my weep-holes are visible from the top of the engine.)

And methane has an octane rating of around 120! Unfortunately, it doesn't liquify well, so it is sold as a very high-pressure gas; approx 3000 psi (200bar?).

Might be cheaper to use Helicoil or Timeserts and repair the holes. I have heard of people whose EA82 head bolts pulled their threads, but this is the first that I can recall having heard (during my 1 year here) of studs pulling out. Are you sure that you are using the right torque spec and/or your torque wrench is functioning properly?

Bump

The tanks are physically quite strong. The flip side is that nothing is stronger than its weakest link. There are fill and outlet fittings on the tank, and if these have the misfortune to take a hit then the tank will leak. BUT... any hit will likely cause a gasoline tank to leak. They are pretty safe (I would not hesitate to use one), but did I mention that they are heavy??? Oh, and bulky, too. Cylindrical, thick wall steel. You need to provide dead space in the tank for expansion, so they can only be filled to approximately 80% of gross capacity. LPG also contains less energy per unit measure than gasoline, so it gets lower distance/unit-volume ("mileage") in a vehicle optimized for gasoline, but should be able to break even on a vehicle optimized for LPG. It should run cleaner (emissions and oil contamination) than gasoline. The engine will likely run cooler: The energy to gasify the LPG has to come from somewheres, and typically comes from the cooling system.

LPG is under pressure, approximately 100-150PSI at our "normal" temperatures. It requires a rather heavy pressure vessel (think oxy/acetelyne tank, but scaled to fit 20-50 gals) by US-DOT regulations. If the tank ruptures in a crash (unlikely), risk of immediate ignition is minimal (has to vaporize, sucking huge amounts of heat from anything it touches), but the tank will continue to leak under pressure until it is empty, so it is a continued fire/explosion/BLEVE risk. It is heavier than air, so will spread along the ground to find any available ignition source. All that being said, the total real-world risk is exteremely low.

When my first sube HG went, I got the oil pan parfait instead of the chocolate milkshake. Drained about 3 quarts of straight water out of the oil pan before the normal oil came out. "If you see hoofprints, look for a horse and not a zebra." I would think HG issues before I looked for anything exotic like a cracked block. But I would probably check intake manifold gaskets, too. With that much water, there is probably water in one or more cylinder (unless gasket is leaking straight from coolant passage to oil drainback). I would consider pulling the sparkplugs and have someone crank the engine while you observe which plug hole(s) the water sprays out of.

Lesson to be learned: Disconnect battery from car electronics before charging a dead/bad/other battery. I have been lucky so far. My misadventures have just been greeted by windshield wipers that start to work on their own. Might want to put a "crowbar" circuit on that MS box. Or, for more finesse, a power-filter/voltage-limiter.

In the USA, LPG ("propane") is the same for car or grill. You just need to find someone that sells in bulk quanitites: Suppliers of home propane tanks, refillers of grill tanks. These retailers are not all that common in metropolitan areas, but very common in semi-rural or rural areas. Prices very greatly (50% variance with 2 of my retailers that are 2 miles apart!). LPG has a high "octane" rating of approximately 110 (depending on blend), burns slower and ignites at a higher temperature which make it require a greater spark timing advance and higher energy ignition event ("hotter" spark). The LPG is liquified (duh!), and has to evaporate into a gas before it can ignite, which requires a large amount of heat to accomplish. It can be difficult to start a cold engine on propane. Propane's ignitable Air/Fuel ratio range is rather large compared with gasoline, so careful metering is not needed just to get it to run.

What more could be said??? SuBrat84, it sounds like your statement is correct.

Ahh! You haven't dealt with the MPFI head/intake-gasket at all. English is fine, my assumption was off. The gasket is a single gasket that deals with both intake ports and the water passage. I can scan a gasket for you if you would like, but for anything to do with fabbing intake parts, you would be better off with the gasket.

Ummm... would it be better for what you have in mind to just buy an intake gasket for one? Then you would know spacing and water jacket and bolt spacing.

Over the last 30 years, I have had good experiences with FelPro gaskets. they have a good reputation elsewhere. That being said, I have not used them on Subaru engines (yet), and there are some strong opinions here about their Subaru sets being unacceptable.

The twin-turbo JDM engine is designed for RHD, and is supposed to have interference problems with LHD steering column.

In my experience, the AC seems to come on which ever button you press, but then goes off if not appropriate. It should continue to run on A/C and defrost. Bilevel should allow you to run fan-assisted outside air through the center vents.