NorthWet

Many Detroit V8s only have one and they flow a lot more than my 4. Apples and oranges. If it were apples and apples, your car could only make, say 40-50HP, or WJMs could make 500 before worrying about injector capacity. I believe that the implication was that the MAF is similar in flow capacity to the MPFI/Turbos and it could flow/meter more air than the SPFI injector could add fuel to. They might be, but I haven't read anything that would indicate to me that they are. Your argument about one injector vs 4 would mitigate against them being the same: Different injector signal requirements, different mapping. I would try to avoid assuming it is lean unless you had some indication it was lean (sparkplugs, injector signal "maxed out", etc).

Depends much on your definition of things. In the cited picture, I would consider the piece on the left side of the picture to be the tailshaft housing. Regardless of nomenclature the leftmost tranny section in the picture has the transfer clutchpack visible in its upper half, and the Duty Solenoid C in the lower right (as viewed in the picture).

I tried to reply to your PM about your dash clock, but your inbox was full. below is most of my reply: Whereabouts in PO do you live? Closer to Gorst, or closer to Gig Harbor? If you know where Scoobywagon lives, you could drop it off with him, too.

This is a relatively simple problem to repair. If you have any questions, I would be glad to help you. I would offer to repair it for you, but I am sure that the cost of international shipping would not make it practical.

Folks, dingbat said that it is a 15 degree slope... think about it for a moment! Winding... with traffic... yikes.

OMG!!!!

I would seriously doubt that those cracks reach into the water jacket. Generally (speaking non-soob-specific), those cracks bridge the intake and exhaust ports and/or cause issues with the valve seat inserts. Without bandsawing the head apart, I would guess that the nearest that the water jacket gets to the valve seat bridge area is about 1/2 inch... that would be a very deep crack, and the car would show other problems first.

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!! :lol: (Where are those ROFLOL emoticons when you need them!!!) Did you SEE her Signature???? This is THE Emily!!! Sorry, Turbo SPFI. No offense meant ... just struck me as tooooo funny.

Why do you believe that it is going lean? (Entirely possible, running around 50% more air mass...) If it is not really going lean, you might consider an intercooler to control detonation. And since it was not designed to be supercharged, I doubt that the ECU is set up to do any fuel cut.

Blowby doesn't cause oil consumption, unless the PCV system allows oil to be pushed into the intake tract. Blowby is compression leakage (tending to push oil away from combustion chamber) past the compression rings, or exhaust gas leakage out the valve guides. Damaged oil control rings would allow more oil to get past the compression rings into the combustion chamber to be burned. So, are you getting oil forced into the intake tract (most notable in the air cleaner box) and is your compression readings down? Or is your compression still good and your sparkplugs showing oil fouling?

Well, here in my little corner of doG's country, the State requires a Dismantler to have a Dismantler's License, a Dealer to have a Dealer's License, and a repair shop most have a Repair License... each requiring around a $30K bond to be posted. Since a Dismantler makes far more money off of the bones than selling something whole, I can understand why they may not bother to get a Dealer's License. Knowing doesn't make me happier, though.

The hillholder can't (easily) be set for degree of incline, but it can be set for how much the clutch pedal has to be depressed. It can be completely disabled if you wish (again, assuming the cable design with which I am familiar). To change the degree of incline for activation, you would need to do something such as insert a wedge under the back section of the hillholder mount, effectively tilting the hillholder valve forward. By the way, let me be the first here to say that you have a screwy driveway!

If in doubt, better to set the heater control to "hot" anyways. It doesn't hurt anything, and the effort is rewarded by knowing that the heater is "open".

Good info about the wires, but... How did an A/C condenser "rupture" spill coolant? Are we talking about the condensate drain hose plugging or coming loose? Inquiring minds want to know...

Well, you could try rolling backwards without the car in gear, so you do not need to depress the clutch. Or, you could just adjust the hillholder cable to either A) not work at all, or only work when clutch pedal is fully depressed. (I am assuming that the New Gens still use a cable for the hillholder.)

Paul, he is looking to repair EA71 head-stud holes. IIRC, Timeserts have been used for this, yes? I think calebz said that he had a kit.

You've got mail... finally!

It took me several weeks before I quit feeling like a tourist in New York City - looking around with my mouth hanging open. Keep looking around and asking questions; this is a great place! In 27 years of my working with computers, this is the first Forum that I have bothered to look at more than once.

This would be a good way to go. Please note that, AFAIK, there is no heater control valve on the EA82s and up, so the heater circuit is always "on".

Also, although I do not have any experience yet, I have heard (and would tend to agree), that turbos are not all that useful for the slow-speed, fast throttle response of RallyX. Unless you can keep the engine wound up and in the boost region, turbo'd cars are pretty sluggish. My 3AT sedan (for my kids, once they get their licenses) has an SPFI engine, and it is far more pleasurable to fling around at low speed than my Turbowagon with 5-speed. (but nothing quite beats the feeling of turbo-boost!)

So, what are you Marketing... Good Will??? I will second your expressions of gratitude for this site. It helped me to fix my wife's "new" daily driver for a couple of bucks instead of the price of a new transmission, and has continued to give me information (and entertainment) since. It has embarked me on a great "adventure", during which I met a great many nice people. Thanks to all! Pat

Well, basics first: What do you mean by the "engine seized". These are pretty rugged engines, and unless you ran it dry of oil it is unlikely to be fatally damaged. Replacing an engine in that car is about as easy as it gets...

In the Old Gen cars, the CTS usually has problems not with the sensor itself, but with the connectin between the sensor and the wires; they get corroded, gunked-up, whatever. At least one of our folk has taken to soldering leads to the CTS and having the connector further out where it stays cleaner and is easier to maintain. Regarding cats, not sure (yet) how they package them on the Legs, but they use 2 separate technologies in the cats: One is an oxidization catalyst that oxidizes HC and CO, and a reduction catalyst that reduces NOx (pretty much as Steve530 wrote). In the Old Gens, these are 2 physically separate cat-cons. In most newer cat-cons, they are still 2 separate "bricks" inside a common case. So, just because HC and CO is being controlled doesn't mean that the cat-con(s) is(are) OK. And engines run warmer when running lean due to rejected heat, but the flame is actually cooler. If all they are doing is running it up to RPM with no load, I would not expect the combustion peak temps to climb very high; if part load, I would still not expect high peaks. If your engine has EGR, that would be my first suspect (but you say it doesn't); my second choice would be the reduction cat-con.

Yes, a small amount of detergent can make a large amount of foam. And since the block will retain 30-50% of the total coolant, I would assume that there would be quite a bit of flush in the system. If you don't have a reason to suspect a leaking HG then you probably don't have one.

I believe that the context referred to the transaxles ring and pinion.