NorthWet

... and a little patience. Sometimes the O2 sensor doesn't want to come out nicely, so you need to back it out a little (1/4 turn?), douse the threads with good penetrant oil, read a book, and turn it back in and then back it out. I think that starting the engine to provide warmth is also suggested, just can't remember when in the procedure. As far as I can tell, and from what I have read and heard, there is very little if any difference between a Subaru sensor and the ones distributed by Bosch. I was recently told (I have not checked it out yet) that if you look at the Bosch sensor that they sell you for a Subaru it will have Nippon Denso's logo on it. I wouldn't doubt it. And your car is the EA82T that is in your other post? If so, you can almost certainly get away with just using a 22mm wrench on the sensor.

I must get an extra 20HP from my silicone radiator hoses!!! Honestly, I don't see any reason to use other than normal hoses for the radiator. We are not talking higher temperatures or stresses here. Where high-temp hoses DO matter is the coolant hoses to/from the turbo, and for the "to" part (underneath the turbo towards the head) I haven't heard any better suggestion than a stock Subaru Dealer part. For the "from" hose which runs from top of turbo center section to t-stat housing (about 4.5 inches away) you might want to use a high-temp silicone hose; I have had 3 fail on me, and the first one literally crumbled when I tried to remove it. Several other minor hoses could benefit greatly from silicone hose, like the nasty little hose that runs from t-stat housing under the intake manifold.

"Hey, Irv! Hold my beer and watch THIS!!!"

The trouble with that motor controller is that it makes no provision for engine speed. What you need is something that puts out a single variable-width pulse when triggered by the ECU's injector signal. My thoughts in this vein are how about using an SPFI throttle body, and use its fuel metering capabilities??? But I believe that all of this is just band-aid, and that proper fuel management (ala MS) would be much better.

Most auto parts stores should also be able to get these seals for you.

XT is almost certainly MPFI. Doesn't sound economical to me, even if it fit. Totally opposite corner of the continental USA, rebuilt by a company that doesn't think to put in the oil pickup tube (which, IIRC, are supposed to be the devil to remove in the first place), CCR being closer, and JDM importers being closer still. Jessie, that sounds like some story of adventure. Glad it wasn't one that I had to take. The headgaskets wouldn't have been too big of a deal, but I can understand that if you are having a shop do it that a new rebuilt would look attractive. That "knocking noise" could very well have been the previously mentioned HLAs ticking. Good luck, and watch out for sharks... We tend to be a ... ummmm... "frugal" group of car cultists, thinking in terms of a couple hundred bucks for acquiring a car and getting it running. Some sleeze who hears how much you have put into your car so far might try to overcharge you for stuff, or just charge and disappear.

Is there a typo in your post, a difference in what vehicles are called in USA vs AU/NZ, or something that I am missing? My impression was that the "Leone" was a name only used on the "L" series" vehicles, such as those imported to the USA between 1985 to 1992(?). So, 1982 and "Leone" seem incompatibale terms.

Heck, I had some more room for parts...

My "incident" was in a Ford Aerostar... Low fuel condition, high nose up attitude, sucky fuel system design. I "ran out of fuel" with several gallons still in the tank, but none near the pickup bung. I was trying to get the engine to develop enough power for a moment to get to flatter ground, so I was "ready to roll" as soon as it caught. Engine cranked over, sputtered, caught died, etc.

"Don't Panic!" - Douglas Adams By "no pickup tube" do you mean that there was also no oil pan on the engine? (the pcikup tube is inside of and hidden by the pan. If the engine has been rebuilt, the gasket should have been replaced. Don't fret over it, as it is nothing special or prone to failure. It is just a known cause of low oil pressure or aerated oil in the EA82 engines. It is normally replaced by "people who know" whenever they change their timing belts, as the t-belts have to be removed to get at the oil pump. Unless you have a real reason to be concerned that your pressure is too low, I wouldn't worry. I have a turbo-wagon that registers negative pressure at idle (sender is a little screwed-up). It is difficult to tell exactly how accurate your particular sendor/gauge combo are, but your engine will tell you if the pressure is too low.

First, anything that Emily (CCRINC, as in CCR, Inc) suggests, do it. Second, I agree about probably a leaking crankshaft seal or camshaft seal, or both or all three. The timing cover hides a lot of sins. The pic looks like you are concerned about the shape of the cover seals. These are only dust/debris seals, and do not cover a "wet" area of the engine.

Whether or not it is "normal", it is very common. The indicated pressure will sag to next to zero at idle when hot. 45 psi hot while at medium rpm sounds pretty good. Your engine has hydraulic lash adjusters (like hydraulic lifters on an american pushrod engine) and they tend to be very sensitive to oil issues. If they do not get enough oil or if there is air mixed in with the oil then they will tap (aka tick of doom or TOD), sometimes very loudly. I test drove an Xt that had been sitting for a few weeks and it at first sounded like a rod bearing had let loose. Anyway, if you had seriously low oil pressure the HLAs would probably let you know (sounding very much like rod bearings). One of the common issues with the oil pump in your XT is that it has a special o-ring (mickey-mouse gasket) that tends to need replacement once in a while. It can leak pressure or allow air to get sucked into the pump. Welcome, and enjoy your XT!

Combustion chambers are essentially the same for all of the EA82s. C/R variances are due to piston shape. Turbo heads are dual intake port, just like the N/A MPFI heads. The reason they are dual intake has to do with what happens with siamesed intake ports when you only squirt fuel into them simultaneously once every crank revolution. The turbo heads have existing bosses drilled to accept oil supply and drainback lines for the turbo, as well as the coolant supply line for the turbo. The turbo block has an additional PCV line connected to an oil separator chamber on the engine bellhousing. The exhaust system sweeps from the driver's side forward next to the oil filter, then back across the passenger side exhaust port and then up between the engine and the front crossmember; the turbo crossmember is notched to allow this pipe to pass, and this is the crossmember difference. The Turbo and MPFI wiring is similar to each other, if not the same (I haven't looked yet). But the wiring is different from carb SPFI, as are the ECUs. The fuel pump is similar/same between turbo/MPFI and SPFI, but carb uses a different pump and fuel line configuration. TurboSPFI, did you do a blowthrough on yours? If so, that woudl be interesting on several levels... And I am interested in a high-comp conversion of one of my turbos, and see little reason to run more than 5-8psi, mostly at higher rpm. Regarding JDMs, the ones we get here could pretty much just drop in if it weren't for the common practice of cutting off the wiring harness connectors. I have yet to see anything on the wrong side, but that might depend on source. I have been very happy with my several used JDM experiences.

For tire shaking, check things that could cause an imbalance or permit movement. Tire balance, obviously. Axle imbalance/wear (someone recently had an issue with bad axle causing a shimmy. A warped/hard-spotted rotor (though in my experience that only affects the actual braking). And my personal favorite, worn leading rod bushings. (Also known as brake reaction rods and a few other names.) These can allow some other perturbance to cause the control arm and leading arm to let the wheel oscillate fore and aft. One wrinkle on your original brake problem: Yesterday while trying to start my stalled minivan on an upward incline, car in PARK ebrake off and foot on brake pedal, as I cranked the starter my foot on the brake pedal sank to the floor. I am still trying to reason out how low-system vacuum would alow that to happen when I do not recall it ever happening while the engine is just plain off and no vacuum is to be had.

That's no redneck, that is one of the most respected Alternative-Fuel Engineers in the world. His Subaru contains an advanced destructive-distillation cell that can turn that 1/2 cord of wood into enough energy to power a 2000-lb vehicle 350 miles. Pretty soon YOU will be seen driving down the road in a beauty just like that.

Gee, in the old days they used to put on the containers SI-x and CI-x... *Edit - And, oh, that PDF gives mixed information as to the meaning. As blitz stated, it does indeed equate S with Service and C with commerical. But it also says the S is gasoline and C is diesel. Plus it lists CI in its ratings. My guess it that the API ratings have "evolved" and the letters are now just letters. Sort of like the AARP used to be for "Retired People", but now the letters AARP are just letters without any meaning (per AARP Prez). As others have stated, diesel oil is not inherently "thicker", and can't be if it is compared with any other oil with the same viscosity rating. The API PDF does mention that it has a higher resistance to viscosity loss caused by shear in a diesel engine. -end edit *

No experience with Legacies yet, but in a late 80's GL tired diff bearings can let the ring-and-pinion create a whine that sounds like gear whine (duh!), just a little forward of where you would normally hear tranny gear whine. Legacies might have better sound insulation than my GL/GL-10s, so you may not be able to localize the noise as well. My experience with wheel bearings is that it didn't matter much if you were turning, they always made noise... just a little more under turning load. Could also be CV and/or loose axle-nut (splines rubbing in hub) issues.

I will get in ahead of "search first, ask later" crowd... These heads don't tend to warp or crack (turbo heads being an exception to the cracking thing). The headgaskets can let go after a good overheating... Doesn't help that these HGs are getting old. Passenger side head is not too hard to remove/replace in the car, driver's side is harder. Easier still to pull the engine and do it out in the open where you know that you have cleaned the surfaces and that that little o-ring didn't fall onto the floor...

My reasoning on this (sitting here on my derriere and thinking) is that one way to tell if they are torque to yield is in the instructions for their torquing. If the manual/instructions say to torque to a specific setting, then they are probably not TTY. If, however, it says to torque to a specific setting, and THEN turn another 90degrees (or similar), then they are almost certainly TTY. I can't think of any good reason (see above re: reasoning ) why the sequence would be any different, unless you mean doing it in x-steps to y-values. (But that is more of a procedure than a sequence.)

Well, I made it out today, though later than I had hoped. Picked up the second parts car, but first had to do some "customizing" with a quick 3.5" lift. Very high spring rate, made for a jouncy ride. I knew those chunks of fence post would come in handy...

Not trying to volunteer or involve someone else, but rallyruss lives in the area.

General thoughts not specific to your Brat's engine: The EA81 is a short-stroke engine, and as such should tolerate some pretty high RPM; RAM Engines lists their aircraft-modified engines as having max-HP at very high RPM (8500??). Stock valve train should start to "float" long before excessive RPM is reached. 5-20 seconds of overspeed should not have toasted a healthy engine. So, unless it broke a rod (possible), or unless the engine had been sitting for awhile and the rings, oil system, whatever was not up to snuff, then things should be relatively OK. That being said... With metal on metal sounds I would not worry about a gasket. I also do not think it is likely to be rings. There is a lot of mention of "piston slap" on this board; I don't think most people here understand piston slap. I will just say that if you didn't have piston slap before, you do not have it now (though you may have a broken piston). Possibilities: Broken con-rod, bent pushrod, broken piston. Check oil on dipstick for shiny particles. If you see them, it is probably engine replacement time. Check compression; if a cylinder is low, pull the valve covers and check the pushrods and rockers for bend and breakage, respectively. If possible, check for bent valves (unlikely). Good luck.

Good work! Have you discovered why the bolt stuck in the first place? Wrong bolt, gunked up threads? It would be a wonderful idea to chase the head threads to make sure that they are clean and minimally damaged. Also, ensure the same on whatever bolts you put back in. BTW, WD40 is not much of a penetrant oil. (I buy it in multipacks and use it for other things, but its penetrating power is weak.) PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and others are much better, and very good to have on hand and use before doing much on older mechanical things.

Moshe, as the others have written, the overflow tank is already vented, and further venting of the cap will not accomplish anything useful. As Noah wrote, if you think that it is not enough venting, then you probably have a serious problem that you need to resolve.

Please note that the belt numbers that I posted were for an XT, which uses a ribbed belt instead of a v-belt.