NorthWet

Basically correct, but I believe that there can be minor differences in the clutch that do not effect fitment. I think Miles mistyped (he knows what he is talking about ). Turbo axles are 25 spline.

It is more a question of chassis style and track. IIRC, the axles in the EA82 (OHC) chassis are an inch or two longer than the EA81's (OHV).

Just to clarify things... Do the described problems with headlights, radio and blower occur when the ignition switch is in the "On" position, or just when you have the switch in the momentary "Start" position?

Probably; standard nomenclature. (Old thread, so you aren't likely to get a response from the orginal poster.) If you have the 2 belts side-by side, the passenger (non-distributor) side is a shorter belt than the driver's side belt.

I'm off to work in a few minutes; will check in again between 3-8am. Happy bug hunting!

Cougar, sounds about right. Many thanks for straighening out my pretzeled memory!

He has replaced the MAF at least once. A lot of the stuff he has done you will not see in this thread since he has had a couple of threads over the 2 months or so that he has had this problem. Still, a good suggestion.

Welcome! I have a couple of GL-10s, along with a few other models.

Should be several people coming up from Portland, etc that could still be contacted. At least the convoys should be easy to spot. Its not an everyday event, and it would be a shame to miss it just because you couldn't quit futzing with your car right beforehand. (Like I am doing any better with my headless engine that is sitting outside on my engine stand for the last 4 days... ) Do I WANT to drive the extra distance to haul your sorry behind (w/car) back up to WCSS7: No. Will I do it if that is what it takes?: In a heartbeat. BTW, which I-5 Exit-# are you near? I can't remember the number, but it isn't that far south of Exit 100-101 for Shelton.

Well, it is raining here 40 miles north of WCSS7. We have a lot of micro-climates around here, so maybe it is dry down where they are trying to set up right now. On the bright side, maybe this is the rain that they expected tomorrow morning, and maybe it will make its mud and move on before the festivities really get going. I wish that I could make it tonight, but I have to go back to work in a couple of hours. Hopefully, I will get home before the sun rises and get to WCSS7 before the day is too old.

I could have sworn that you had posted in the past couple of days about ignition switch problems... I seem to recall something about a puff of smoke. I can't find anything like what I remembered, so... ..am I just confused? Too many problems, too few brain cells.

Maybe the same way your wagon got from work to your house??? "If you can't walk, you crawl. When you can't crawl anymore, then your friends will carry you." - (TV series "Firefly")

What kind of TPS problem? I have a spare...

What you describe here, and in your other thread, sure sounds to me like there is something wrong with your ignition switch. This seems to be a relatively common problem.

Regarding testing for bad connections by measuring voltage: What you are looking for is high resistance connections, and the method you have chosen to use is measuring voltage DROP across a connection. In other words, you are using an indirect method of finding the problem, and you should understand this. In order to get the indirect measurement of voltage, you also need for there to be current flow thorugh the wire/connection. A piece of unconnected wire has a resistance, but on its own it does not have a voltage measurement of any kind. You need current flow, and the measured voltage DROP across the wire will vary directly with the amount of current that it is conducting. So, for the voltage test of connections to work, stuff needs to be turned on and drawing power for current to flow and a voltage drop to be developed. The more "stuff" that is drawing power the more current is flowing through the connections and the more obvious the voltage drop across the connections will be. Short answer: You need to turn power-using stuff "on" in order to do a voltage drop test. BTW, there is no way a shorted A/C clutch will draw enough power to drag down the system voltage that much UNLESS it is also pouring out smoke from extremely overheated wiring.

"If you hold it, they will come!" Oddcomp, you should come anyways. I could still loan you a soob if you need one (just no rallyx or bashing it up, ok?). I here that there will be beer...

BlueSoob, did Scoobywagon get a hold of you? He works Swing, so I don't know if he got the message. (And I just got home, so I couldn't relay it to him.) Bedtime...

New Request For Assistance: Scoobywagon would like to know if someone near Laramie would be willing to drive his wife (and several medium-build dogs) from Laramie to Longmont,CO and back and be compensated $100 for said Noble Act. If someone would be willing to do so, please contact Charley at: (360) 509-5081 Thanks again everybody!

IIRC, it is an Halcyon or Alcyone in some contries. Might be a Vortex in your neck of the woods. 2-door coupe, wedge-shaped, pop-up front headlights.

ditto.

Your bog could be a number of things. Start with the basics of ignition: How new are the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and are the plugs and wires good quality? (I am biased towards NGKs being the best.) Is the ignition timing PROPERLY set (using diganostic connectors near wiper motor)? Has injector cleaner been run through it recently? Compression test results? Also, it might be "off of the cam", too far below its torque peak and just naturally gutless. I had a brand new, myself-installed, t-belt shed itself after less than 2k miles. Welcome to timing belts.

Narrow, high pressure tires will give you the best highway fuel economy. Weight for steady state is irrelevant, and only slightly so for stop and go traffic (largely made irrelevant by vehicle's much greater weight). PMI effects are negligible under normal driving conditions. The following is based on "apples vs. apples" (same tire model, different sizes): Miles' recommendation of 175/70r13 or 185/70r13 would give you approximately the same height/circumference as your 155s but much wider tread. The wider tread might decrease fuel mileage somewhat but will vastly improve cornering stability (while somewhat decreasing straightline stability). I personally would compromise on a good quality 175/70 or 185/70 tire. You are unlikely to notice any significant downside (other than cost), and will increase the cornering/object-avoidance/stopping abilities of your car.

Looks like a plan is being formed. Thanks to Luvmybrat and Shadow and everybody else that looked and thought and will be offering help. It is a sign of a great community that people will come together to help someone that they do not personally know. This site once again proves how great it is!

Althought I may have implied it, I didn't say it wouldn't fit , just may be REAL tight. Ratty2Austin and other have done it; and may be good resources for problems. If you are gong away from EA81, going to EJ22 sounds good to me. The hatch also sounds like a good offroader from what I have read. (Man, my b*tt is getting bigger... why?? Oh, yeah, i am reading instead of doing!!! )

Pardon the dual/cross-post, but a member's wife is in a fix. Her EA81 broke-done outside of Laramie Wyoming, and unless her husband (Scoobywagon) can find a local to help her he is going to drive to Wyoming (from Seattle-area) with a tow-dolly to get her home. See the Meet-Greet thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=39580 Please help if you can. Pat