NorthWet

Unless it is a turbo/MPFI, then, no it doesn't have a coolant thermosensor. It does had a temp gauge sensor (thermostat housing area), and a cooling fan thermoswitch (passenger-side radiator tank).

Hmmm... looked up some of his posts... and it seems that he has been banned recently...

Smaller EA81 flywheel is 8", larger is 8-7/8"; yours should be same as EA82 in diameter, but bolt holes are smaller than EA82.

TURBOSPFI runs a turbo'd EA82 SPFI. You might want to ask him about his experiences. Sounds like he is able to run 6-8 psi without major issues.

Young uns!!! Generically, turbone meant a new radiator. Once upon a time, rather than get a whole new radiator, radiator shops whould remove the inlet and outlet tanks and solder them on to a new radiator "core". Nowadays, radiators are throw away items and the complete radiators come in boxes.

That is the cooling fan thermoswitch. It just switches "on" when temp setting is reached. It can be replaced/bypassed for testing with a jumper wire.

Well, let me how this works out. I am just about ready to put my engine back in, and do not look forward to a retorque... I pulled the engine cuz my hands were too fat to get the driver's side cam cover off.

The coil might be a bit of overkill until you find if just normal tuneup parts fix the problem. NGK sparkplugs are the standard recommendation here. If you are replacing the cap and rotor (and you should), you might want to take them with you as examples, as computerized parts systems have ... umm... "issues" with finding the correct parts for 85-89 (?) Subarus. Your XT might be immune to the confusion, as it is just different enough that most computerized systems have them as separate listings.

I just verified that the Harbor Freight Fiamms are 2 terminal (got them for my wife for xmas present... 2004. I guess I should install them soon :-\ ). The Fiamms from CSK are also 2 terminal. Shape determines loudness and directional properties more than anything.

Ditto times 10. Sub-par ignition parts can cause a world of weird problems, especially in the turbos. And setting timing is non-obvious (requires connecting a special set of connectors to tell the engine computer to sit still and accept a change), so the ignition-timing often gets misset. Another possibility is if someone recently changed the valve timing belts, they might have done a poor job. But first make sure the ignition is in order.

Well, that is the source of ALL ignition-switched power. You didn't mention if this device was going to be wired into the passenger compartment or the engine compartment, and if you want it switched on ACC and IGN or just IGN.

I think that was probably the EA81 that you don't have to remove the rocker shaft if you have the right socket. It MAY be possible on the EA82, but it really doesn't look like it. And it really looks like it would be near impossible in the car.

1) I seriously doubt it. Any drag should be insignificant compared to normal driving strains. 2) Sounds like nonsense to me, but what do I know? Both stub-axles "float" in the final drive differential carrier, so removing the drive axles from them should not affect internal alignment. Not knowing the context, I could hazard the guess that what they meant was that if you remove both stub-axles by removing the side bearing retainers, then you might cause the carrier to shift left or right.

I don't recall having problems installing a set of cheap Fiamm horns on my 87. Almost all vehicles (that I am fmailiar with) ground the horn circuit at the horn button, so I am surprised to hear about case grounded horns.

The turbos don't fail all that often, and so many other things could be causing the car to run badly. Before investing a fair amount of money in different turbo, custom piping and such, you might want to check the turbo. What type of symptoms are you having?

Yeah, I thought of that after I posted. Currently, he has the engine out of his wagon, which I can't remember for sure but I think that it was an 85 or 86. (The RX engine had a "special" oil additive that looked like shiney particles on the dipstick; sort of went with the loud clanking while the engine was turning over.) In any case, he may want the various specs so he can later pick and choose...

Doh!!! Yup... Sleep deprivation strikes again. Thanks again, qman. So, if noone gets unlazy , you could press out one of the 2 studs that you need to do anyways, and use that hole as a gauge.

Replace it with a larger turbo. You can get some more boost out of the stock turbo, but more than a little increase will move the compressor into a less efficient performance region, which will increase boost pressure but mostly by heating the air hotter. The actual amount of air mass might not increase much. (The other side of this boost vs mass thing is that if you install an intercooler, you will see less boost pressure after the intercooler BECAUSE it has cooled the air; you will still have most of the mass flow, which is really the important thing.) The usual recommendation for a larger turbo is the TD04, which has slightly different mount-bolt patterns.

Yes, the hole should be slightly larger than the stud going into it, and the conical lugnut seat (or whatever you use if you don't taper bore the hole) will cover a multitude of sins. But the standard for determining bit size (at least amongst non-pros ) is to slide the bit shank into an example/model hole. This is assuming that you aren't using reduced-shank bits. The proper bit should just barely move through the hole.

I don't have an exact answer for you, but a suggestion on how to determine the right size. Use the shanks of your bits to see which one fits the whole in a suby wheel the best.

SPFI = Single Point Fuel Injection (also known as Throttle-Body Injection, TBI) You do not have a carburetor, just a throttle body with a fuel injector mounted in it. Several threads exist that talk about an alternate pump for FI soobs, most using a Ford fuel pump. It is cheaper than a soob pump (though still somewheres around US$80). The wiring to the pump has also been discussed, and, though I can't remember the particulars, it is not straightforward... something about the red wire changing to blue at the pump. Oh, and I wouldn't expect that stumbling as you described would be a sign of a failing pump.

oddcomp's is an 85, IIRC. Pretty sure I saw all of this in my 85 FSM, but it is currently on loan to owner of another 85 RX. If noone else can give you the info, I will as soon as FSM comes home. *edit - calebz, I would be interested in the 87+ specs. end edit *

The first and best thing you should do for your engine is install an intercooler. Presently, you are feeding 200+degreeF air into your intake manifold. What do you really want? Horsepower of torque? Most people use HP to mean generic "power". For more horsepower, spin the engine faster and provide engine breathing to permit this. Bigger turbo, bigger exhaust, possibly different cams. Expect your low-to-mid-range torque to go away. If you want torque, shove more air/fuel in to your engine. Higher boost, better exhaust. Expect it to break more often. Either way, make sure that your cooling system is first rate. If your headgaskets have not been replaced before, expect to have to replace them soon (Either by your choice or theirs.).

Going ONCE... (bump)

Polishing the throttle plate segment probably won't get you anything. Matching the gasket, etc might be worth something. Changing the vacuum actuated secondary to manually actuated will hurt mileage and power.