NorthWet

Waht do you mean by "switch box"? Do you mean fuse box? If so, it is under the trim panel that is jsut above the hood release.

Nothing like a big Gorilla Glue seam down the middle of a window... I am not sure that the polyurethane glue would adhere to the polycarbonate... but don't know that it wouldn't. Most "glues" used on plastics are actually solvent welds.

Once upon a time I knew, but seems to me that the store that sold you the Lexan would know (maybe). And Home Depot here carries Lexan plenty big for a quarter window, and wouldn't have the seaming issues.

Intake manifold gaskets. Also, if either engine has EGR, that is somtimes a pain to break the fitting loose; and if one has an EGR and one doesn't, well, that is another minor headache. And don't forget to change the timing belts (at least) while they are easy to get at. *EDIT: And, oh by the way, why do you want to dgo with another/newer engine? Obvious engine probs? end edit*

As long as the 90-91 is a Loyale and not a Legacy, it is the same engine. Some of the accessory pieces may be different (engine wiring harness/connectors), but simply swapping the intake from one to the other should deal with most issues. The Legacy 2.2 is a different animal. Major wiring differences, mounting it to your current transmission requires an adapter plate.

I do not know of where to get replacement jets. I would suspect that Solex or Weber jets MAY be interchangeable. HOWEVER... ... I would also suspect that your carb jets are not the culprit in your engine seeming to run rich. Plus, just mucking around with the jets without knowing WHEN the engine might be running rich could cause you a great amount of problems getting it to run right. First off, what was the engine doing before you pulled the plugs to check them? Were the plugs new before you checked them? (As in, were they a clean sheet of paper of did they have thousands of miles of "scribbles" on them that you were reading?) Lots of things can make an engine run rich at idle, but none of them are the main jets.

Fixture? FIXTURE?! We don't need no Stinkin' Fixture! Just rev your engine past its redline and see where it falls flat on its face.

According to Chilton's, the EA82 has the same installed height as the ER27, but around 12% greater "Spring Test Pressure"... I haven't found definition for that, so I don't know if it is spring rate or something else. Either way, I imagine that you can assume that it is apples-vs.-apples, and the EA82 has a higher spring rate. Not floating at 7k is not much of an endorsement, especially for an OHC engine. RAM has springs, etc, for EA81 that people seem to use in 9k rpm engines. Might be worth looking into, but then again, stock NEW springs might allow the same.

I am basing this post on memory of what I believe that I read in my 85 FSM (currently on loan to Scoobywagon). IIRC correctly, for 1985, the Turbo cams had very little overlap compare with the non-turbo. I don't remember anything about duration or lift specs. I would think that you would be disappointed in performance of high-overlap cams in a turbo application, at least at low-to-mid engine speeds. Low-overlap cams should pump up the low-end (and fuel economy) of a non-turbo engine; it might also push it to more easily detonate.

No, the driveline isn't more efficient, it is just "compromised" to a different set of preferences/desires/goals. Significantly reducing the rotating inertia will make the engine feel rougher, will be harder to drive in day-to-day traffic, and in general just feel more highly "strung". Yes, less rotating mass allows the engine to change RPM more rapidly. A 235 pound crank pulley would slow down the engine's (and car's) acceleration, but will not effect the car's top speed. ("fast"... semantics (sorry for the previous sp)) And the weight is not so important as the effective distance of the weight (mass, really) from the center of rotation: A 238 pound lump of extremely dense material 1 inch in diameter has nearly zero effect on the engine's ability to change speed, whereas 5 lbs at 10 ft distance would have a tremendous effect. A pulley that is several pounds lighter at an average or 2 inches from rotational centerline is not significant. I feel bad that we have kind of hijacked this thread. :-\

Vasoline or bearing grease.

Bump Edit: Paul, on an 82, I have a steel vacuum line/connection that is parallel tot the line for the disty vac advance. The rubber hose goes from this up to a metal connection on the air filter housing almost directly above (front most of a pair of fitings). Is this the one??? end edit

The computer code is related to the the solenoid that controls the vacuum to the EGR valve. The computer is saying that it doesn't see the proper electrical resistance from the solenoid; could be damaged solenoid, could be disconnected/damaged wiring. The ECU can't tell whether or not the EGR valve itself is working. But that doesn't mean that the EGR valve is OK, either.

It would be useful to know exactly how you ruled out spark problems. Just swapping out the plugs isn't conclusive. I would be very suspicious of the sparkplug wires, and carefully check the distributor cap (including where the plug-wire connects; for corrosion) and rotor. Ignition is the most likely problem. What makes you think that you are down one cylinder? Did you disconnect (and ground!) one plug wire at a time until the car ran the same?

A symantics discussion may develop... "Power" is a specific term, meaning unit torque (force times distance) applied over unit time. Standard units of power are watts and horsepower. Your engine does not suddenly produce more HP/KW because of less rotating mass. If that were true, then removing your flywheel would about double the engines HP/KW. Rate of acceleration is mostly determined by torque. With a lighter flywheel/pulley, less of the developed torque is used to overcome the PMI of the rotating mass, so you can get greater effective torque, so, yes, your engine will rev faster and you can accelerate faster. Dynos can be spoofed by this because, theoretically, HP should be measured at a steady RPM; Dyno operators are more likely to just sweep through the rev range and find what pops out. The pulley is such a minor part of the rotating mass, and an insignificant part of the accelerated mass of the vehicle, that singling it out as a place to spend lots of money just to lighten it is not called for in my opinion. Replace it with a solid, more reliable part that happens to be lighter? Sure. Anyways, will an engine with less rotating mass rev quicker? Yes. Does it produce more HP/KW? No. Can it seem like it is producing more HP/KW? Yes. Will it produce faster 1/4 mile times? Maybe. Like I said, mostly symantics.

I didn't think that anything in Pt. Ludlow was allowed to be old enough to need a new roof. Everything that I have seen there was new construction, mostly California-style rabbit hutches (condos/townhouses costing way too much). BTW, my avatar is meant to be a reflection of me, not where I live. The rain follows me. I used to work for a company in Silicon Valley, and every time I would visit Corporate HQ it would dry up here and rain there. Thought of changing "Eeyore" to "Thor"...

Headgasket surfaces need to be down to shiney metal. Wire brush is probably not the way to go. The best way is to have them professionally surfaced. The next best is to use sandpaper on a surfacing plate or (if you are very careful) a random orbital sander; these last 2 do not guarantee a flat surface, though. The cylinder residue is probably jsut carbon from burnt oil and gas and other suff that has accumulated over the last 200k miles. Clean it off and check for a wear-ridge; probably nothing there igf you can still see the crosshatching on the cylinder wall. The "gasket" between the cam carrier and the head is a U-Squeeze-'Em one. The book recommends an anaerobic sealer (pricey: goo and activator cost me US$30) or others have used Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey RTV, I believe. (FelPro gasket kit comes with Ultra Black.) The pan gasket bolts are very low torque to prevent deforming the sheetmetal pan and extruding the gasket. No torque wrench to my knowledge registers that low, at least known of the click style. (A torsion beam one might be made for that low.) The torque ends up being "just a little tighter than snug".

Oddcomp speaks from experience... but I will throw in some related-field (but not turbo boost management) theory. The further away from the BOV/BRC you hook the actuator line the more chance that you can get into an oscillation. Better, in theory, to have the sense/actuator line closer to the controlled device. Now, the device may be so slow in operation compared to intake length and air flow/pressurization that it will not get into the BOV's "resonant frequency", but if you are already plumbing in the BOV why not just add a manifold pressure "port" right next to it?

Nope, just worried about the Law Of Unintended Consequences. If the alternator or battery fails, you just need to make sure that the idle actuator can't put the engine into a runaway acceleration scenario. I assume that the IAC method would not really allow this to happen, and the "cruise control" method would hopefully have limited actuation ability.

Well, i will not go into the wisdom of doing this, so... Start out using a precision voltage regulator, typically these are around 2volts, and use a voltage divider network so that your target voltage is just above 2 volts. Feed a comparator circuit (op-amp configured as a voltage comparator is usually easiest) with one input being the precision voltage reference output and the other being the voltage from your voltage divider network. This will give you an on/off signal that you can then buffer or amplify to drive whatever you need.

His description and second photo show a ring that is chamfered on its outside edge...

Well, I can't rain on Turbone's parade, so I can throw in at least a front bumper, maybe a couple other parts. And I am just up the road. What color is the car, Silver or Champagne? Or is it baby blue??? Might be able to do a champagne right front fender, though it is a little tatty near the bottom bolt next to the door jamb.

My various manuals either show the rings as symmetrical, or say there is a mark on the upper surface, or to say to follow the manufacturer's instructions on the ring package. Hmmm... not much help.

Well, the radiator is trashed, the A/C evaporator (assuming it was still there; I can see the compressor) is trashed and the R12 lost to the environment, both headlights and their mounts, both front marker/park lights, bumper (duh!) a pair of fenders, the hood are goners. Even without structural issues, that is an awfully expensive bunch of bolt-on items that need replacing. (Just noticed it looks like the A/C evap was gone previously.)

So, it wasn't an obvious "death by running into something"?