NorthWet

On the EA82, if you have it in "High", it will automatically lower at freeway speed... 45 or 50mph, IIRC. *EDIT - I must have missed GG's previous post when I wrote the following comment about o-rings. Lazy/blind me... end edit * I am surprised that Gary didn't mention the many o-rings in the system (at each connection) that tend to get old and leak. (Gary has helped me greatly with understanding what was wrong with the system on my wife's car. ) The o-rings are cheap and easy to replace... just a whole bunch of them. Regarding metal vs. air springs: No contest for highway ride quality. The air springs are preeety nice. Really dampen road vibration and noise transmission.

If I were a betting man (I am not ), I would say that if you had one it would probably be the JATCO unit, as it was used in the later cars. The M41 and M41A are probably near-twins (with each other); some relatively minor refinement. (BTW, the JATCO core was used in several other Japanese cars.) Parts stores have asked me which 3AT I was buying a pan gasket for, as they are different shapes. This may be your best external distinguishing characteristic. If you take the pan off, the valve body should be marked with transmission ID.

Ummm... what kind of idea do you want? Not that I am likely to provide you with much info, but you never know.

Not much in the engine itself that would make a screeing noise. Might try removing accesory drive belt(s) and see if noise goes away. (Assuming it will occur at startup...)

My guess would be the CTS. My TurboWagon would flicker the CEL while driving, accompanied by the stumble as the light transitioned each way. I think it is just the ECU going into a fallback/limp mode when it loses a good CTS value.

Should be the 4EAT... no vac-mod or 3AT-style governor. I would vote for internal gumminess. Certainly worth changing the fluid and running it for a while to see if the problem clears up. Some would probably also recommend using Seafoam transmission conditioner. (I haven't had enough experience with it to recommend.)

Have you checked/backflushed the radiator? Might be plugged.

#1) Might just be the axle nut needs to be retorqued. Seemingly a common problem that the nut doesn't get torqued right (142 ft-lbs???) and the splines rub in the hub. #2) What kind of terrible noise? A knocking like a rod bearing, or a screeching/screeing noise like a rolling-element bearing going out? #3) Ignition components, Coolant ThermoSensor (CTS), O2 sensor are all good candiadates. #4) Don't know about the lock. The window is probably dirty switch contacts.

If it is fairly new, it might not have been tensioned propely on install, or it may have stretched a little and needs retensioning.

The Turbo Loyales came with the 4EAT. 1990, maybe 1991 for Turbo Loyales? I am curious and a little confused (nothing new for me ) as to why you want to disable 4WD. Is this for some competition?

D-cal, the methodology you desribed for the Turbo Dodge group sounds great, and it would be nice if we could get something like that started. I personally think that it would be worthwhile, and I will take a look at the program that you so generously have shared with us. Thank you.

Try searching on EZ30 or EG33.

Yes. It's been about 25 years since I did assembly language on the Z80, and about the same length since I looked at the other contemporary 8-bit processors. (I should still have all of the OSBORNE Press books, though.) In the interim (up until 3 years ago), I have been doing assembly language on IBM mainframes. Mostly, reverse engineering OSs and compilers to develop debuggers, and to bypass OS routines to do native I/O and interrupt handling. Also catching compiler runtime error/warning codes, and replace compiler runtime routines with our own. All sorts of fun stuff. One of the relevant aspects of this was memory dump analysis, which was, essentially, on-the-fly reverse engineering. Anyway (*sheepishly gets down off of his soapbox*), I do have a little background. Yes, it is certainly doable. Will anyone do it? Probably not, as it is some amount of work, and the work will not be monetarily rewarded. The concept of pro bono publica only goes so far.

My first guess would be loose/glazed/worn "fanbelt"...but I believe in your case it would be Serpentine belt. It is slipping at startup, then heats up enough to grab, at least until you put more load on it from the power steering pump.

As I read this, we don't really give a rat's patoot what happens under various conditions, we just need to know what the solenoid's signal frequency is, and what the pulse width is for minimal and maximal conditions... and even the last we could guess that 50/50 is near-zero pulse width. All of the rest would be up to the nut behind the wheel as she/he turned the knob and/or flipped the switches.

Like I said, it can be a real pain. At this point, nobody knows anything about the memory map, so initial learning curve will be quite steep. I can't remember offhand whether or not the 6500/6800 series had I/O ports/instructions, or whether the ECU developer would use them or just do memory-mapped I/O. As I typed, the only thing really working in our favor is the relative simplicity and smallness of the code.

With the PCV, more likely the interior of the hoses are caked with gunk, making it easier to suck up oil or less able to "breathe" air into the crankcase. The Coolant ThermoSensor (CTS) on these things tend to get corroded at the connector, and even back up the wires from the connector. It is semi-hidden on the back side of the intake manifold, screwing into the coolant "pipe" that bolts onto the manifold. IIRC, the "12" usually occurs when you look at codes with the engine off.

Disassembling a program can be a real pain, especially if you have no information as to how the hardware is defined. It can be done, just takes patience and time. The one thing that we have in our favor is that the hardware is relatively simple, so the ECU's functions are relatively simple.

The Duty "C" Solenoid controls fluid pressure to the rear-wheel transfer clutch pack, varying how much power is transfered to the rear wheels. It is located INSIDE of the transmission case and requires partial disassembly to service it.

The "transfer case" is an integral part of the transmission, not a separate ("divorced") unit. Several people here have added a "divorced" transfer case to their Subarus, but AFAIK it also requires at least a mild suspension "lift" to provide ground clearance.

Until you said "blue smoke", I was going to suggest that you recheck the clamps that hold the "TURBO" intake plenum in place, as if you had this off they tend to blow off under boost, bleeding off pressure/flow and screwing up your air/fuel mixture. The blue smoke sounds like a PCV problem, probably with the cam-cover breather hoses.

AFAIK, Turbos did not come with a D/R tranny. (Oops! Except for the RX tranny, and if you have one of those it would be nice to know for advice reasons.)

My apologies... I took "preload" literally, in the context springload on a clutch pack. Yes, your explanation makes sense. BTW, I was looking at Mouser Electronics catalog and they may have some suitable PWM ICs for between $0.62 and $5. Haven't looked at the datasheets yet.

Lots of manufacturers make PWM ICs. Just need to do some research to find who, where, and how much. I just wanted to point out that it is simple to do with commonly available parts, so building it shouldn't be a stumbling block. (I am currently researching cheap/available PWM ICs, because these could also be used to cure the Old Gen heater blower resistor-pack failures. I had assumed from the advertising that the split was continuously varied, but I have no direct experience to back this up. And I seriously doubt that the 90/10 is set by preload, otherwise the "FWD-fuse" would still leave it in AWD. Just my thoughts...

This webpage talks about making a PWM controller using LM555/556 as the basis: http://www.web-ee.com/Schematics/PWM/pwm.htm I think it could be made simpler, though.