NorthWet

Well, that is pretty much what it is...

Are you getting detonation or pre-ignition? Colder plug won't help with detonation; better to play with mixture. Don't know what emissions controls your vehicle came with, but lean mixture could be caused by improperly disconnect emissions control on the carburetor. In the USA, EGR runs from a port on the head (engine-left-side headjust below cam cover and pointing out towards wheel) up behind engine and into the back of the intake manifold; steel tubing (perhaps 1cm OD) all of the way. ASV attaches to special cast iron fittings bolted to exhaust port(s) on one or both heads, with steel tubes of perhaps 2-3cm OD running up to aluminum valves with rubber hoses on the other side.

They can be tapped/driven out with a brass drift from the opposite side of the housing (I.E. - inner bearing driven out from outer bearing side of housing, and vice versa). There are slight grooves/troughs in the bearing housing that can be used to get better purchase on the bearing race.

MY SPFI sedan also only reads about 1/4 scale, but I am now convinced that it is just a misreading gauge/sender combo. Is the heater not working caused by low temp or plugged heater circuit? I would try to verify that the temp is actually too low before trying to get your gauge to read higher. (Cardboard under controlled conditions could be used to help find this out.)

The hillholder acts as a brake line-lock: It just holds whatever pressure your foot put into the brake system. It may not hold that pressure if it is leaking/defective (haven't heard of this happening), or if it is not quite adjusted properly. Adjusted too loosely, and it will not hold the pressure; too tightely and it wil not release the pressure when you take your foot off of the clutch. #2: I haven't seen anything like it. My guess is that the fuel filter going nowheres might be a kludge, somebody's way of putting a breather on the end of the line. Any electrical leads to the blue device? What does the writing on the top of it say?

I'd start with the plugs and wires (general bias here towards NGK plugs), probably not go colder than stock. What was done with the PCV system? The hoses from the cam covers can get pretty crudded-up and constricted, and if you start sucking any oil at all into the intake it can cause pinging (detonation). My guess on what you clamped off was the air suction valve hoses; these allow air to get sucked into the exhaust to help oxidize hydrocarbons. The reed valves tend to go back and allow exhaust flow into the intake.

The hoses and connections in the PVC system can become clogged and narrowed by years of crud accumulation. If they are not cleaned/replaced, you can suck oil up into your intake manifold... especially under boost. The PCV valve has to be able to withstand boost. General recomendation is to get an OE PCV valve.

Are you sure that it is your turbo seal that is leaking and not oil from your PCV system?

Silly me!!! I was assuming EA82... :-\ .

Are you talking about the front control arm bushings? What did you use to replace them? (AFAIK, there is no stock replacement for that bushing. I would LOVE to be proved incorrect.)

I solved the bolt seizure problem by using "poor man's" studs: I got a set of bolts that were long enough to screw through the BACK of the cover nuts and protude throught the front covers; a nyloc nut on the front and never have to worry again about getting the bolts broken loose.

Welcome.... ... and what indication do you have that the engine is bad?

Dim lights are typically a bad ground. The ground on your passenger side is probably bad, and it is finding a ground through the driver's side bulb. Which car is this on?

Sparkplugs/wires, cap, rotor, clean around the coil tower. Make sure that the ignition is in order before chasing other problems.

Probably common ground between the wiper and defroster, and the ground connection to body is poor. This could cause a voltage drop across the connection, and apparent voltage on the defroster circuit.

Check that tailgate connector, too.

Your original symptoms sounded to me like failing sparkplugs/wires. Just because they work under no load doesn't mean they work right (or consistantly) under load, which increases greatly under boost. I would check the T-belt as Cougar suggests, but I would insure the ignition is up to snuff before chasing any possible fuel related issues.

Just like Subarian said... It should be a SEPARATE switch (pushbutton) in the bank of buttons on the left side of the instrument pod, above the headlight switch. It should be the uppermost left switch, and be denoted by a squiggly line on the button face. I can provide a picture of the switch in the car, if needed. There is no reason that it should be related to the rear wiper switch.

I would think that it is a slipping accessory drive belt. (Belt dressing is only somewhat effective.) Startup the car, go look at the alternator and A/C pulleys and see if either are "stalled"; if not, I would assume that belt needs to be retensioned or, perhaps, replaced.

Is this a carb'd engine or one of the the turbo/MPFI's ones? The ECU on the EA81's is simpler (generally) than the EA82s. The code 11, if I recall correctly, relates to the engine not running (something like no starter circuit or no ignition pulses). The fact that the ECS light comes on 10 minutes in could be because the ECU has a delay on some of its functions until the car warms up; if this is so, maybe you have a "lazy" EGO (O2) sensor.

Also, if your wipers are turning on by themselves it is usually a sign of the system voltage being too high. If this is happening while you are charging the battery or trying to jump start it from a charger, it is an indication that your battery connection is not good; if it is happening *while the engine is running* it is a sign that your battery connection is not good and the alternator is going CRAZY trying to charge the battery. Either way, it points to the same cauyse and can cause severe (read EXPENSIVE) damage to electricals (alternator, ECU, distributor).

Hatchback or Stationwagon? In your first post you said hatchback (2 doors+hatch), but it sounds like stationwagon 4 doors+hatch). The stationwagon's rear defroster has a weak point in its wiring: A connector in the rear hatch (under the main trim panel) tends to overheat and go bad; this is partly because it is under some physical tension. Of the 3 members who have posted similar problems in the last year, all three have had this same problem. * edit - see: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26724 - end edit*

The first one I replaced literally crumbled intp a dozen pieces in my hand. I have heard recommendations for OEM hose, too. Me, I have had inexplicable luck running a long loop of hydraulic-rated hose; it loops around my plenum and back to the t-stat housing. The loop looks funky, probably restricts flow too much, buut does make it easier to remove and replace the otherwise short hose.

Exhaust leak at turbo and smoke coming up from turbo indicate, at least, a bad crossover/uppipe-to-turbo gasket, or more liekly a cracked crossover flange at the turbo.

So, the starter is not rotating the engine when you turn the key to "start"? And you are getting sparks from the battery terminals? If this is correct, first thing is that it sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery terminals. Clean the terminals, clean or replace the battery cables, clean the connections at the OTHER end of the battery cable (near/on the starter).