NorthWet

I agree with GG, and at the risk of "volatizing" this thread, the basic debate hinges around the tradeoff between filtration and airflow. K&Ns will not trap all the fine particles that a proper pleated-paper filter will catch, but they could flow more air than a comparable area pleated-paper filter. "Comparable" is a key word here...

The big rubber donuts on the leading rods (that go from control arm to the body near the tranny mounts) get old and allow fore-aft slop, allowing an oscillation to occur. Take a look at these, and replace them anyways if you have never done so.

AFAIK, this gear is a Dealer-only part... between $33-75, dependign on the dealer. BTW, these gears are suppsoed to be available in both nylon and steel, though all I have seen are the steel ones. If you wore out this gear in a short period of time, then you have more severe issues. The drive gear may be damaged, the bearings supporting the drive gear may be worn out, or maybe just that the governor needs its usual good cleaning.

Welcome! Replacing the timing belts on the EA82 is not a major task. Biggest problem is getting the belt covers off, as the crank bolt has been in place for 20-odd years, and the bolts that hold on the covers themselves are threaded into inserts in the plastic covers, and the insert will sometimes spin rather than break loose from the bolt. 200k mileage is not major... the bigger issue is that all of the gaskets are getting old, brittle and leaky. Wherabouts in WA are you??? Lots of us around the state.

How about bad DOJ(s) or, more likely with problem coincident with tranny replacement, worn tranny side bearings supporting stub axles. If you grab the Axle DOJs near the tranny can you shake them up and down or side to side?

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GL-10... manual or automatic??? The turbo manuals are 25, the turbo 3-speed autos are 23 but different from the non-turbo 23 spline, and the turbo 4-speed auto (not available as FWD, IIRC) are 25-spline.

I personally would not use WD40 or any other lubricant on high voltage areas, as the high voltage can cause carbon trails through the material. I would stick with other methods of drying the area and/or replacing the cap and rotor. Moreal of the story is never use a pressure washer unless you want water shoved into every crevice. (It can really ruin wood siding...)

As the title says, has anybody bought an FSM on CD from these guys? http://www.datamanuals.net/subaru_comp.htm About $25 for what they represent as the Factory Service Manual on CD. Given the number of years covered per CD, I wonder if it really is the Subaru FSM. Any experiences???

Sounds like fun, if I were closer and/or could figure how to haul it 350+ miles home. Oh... and... Time...time...time... You and me both, brother! BTW, did Andrew ever get you that PhotoShop??? Might be able to help.

To elaborate on the original question a little more... You need the engine, the intake and exhaust system back past the second CatCon, the engine wiring harness, probably some of the dash area wiring harness, the fuel pump and maybe some of the lines (not sure if SPFI lines are same as MPFI/turbo lines), and the engine/suspension crossmember. Probably a lot of other little things. As implied in other posts such as Calebz', buying a donor car is the best way to go. A lot of effort for not much benefit. The turbo engines really are a tradeoff of a little more power for lower reliability and lower fuel economy (7.7 Compression Ratio).

I haven't worked on a carbed EA82, but if they are similar to the EA81 system then they have one or two ECU-controlled duty-solenoids that are used to alter the mixture. They work by venting (reducing vacuum signal in) the carbs emulsion circuits. Anyways, if one of the vacuum hoses to the solenoids is loose/leaking, the mixture will lean out. If the solenoid is stuck open then it could lean out. If the ECU is keeping the solenoids open too long (ECU or the EGO sensor malfunctioning) then it could be too lean. Another question is: Are the plugs just showing clean white, or "Death-ash" grey?

Replacing the hub-carrier/swing-arm should be enough. You imply that you can not remove this section, but you didn't explain.

Thanks to both of you. I will grab/enlarge the diagram when I get some time at home... looks like I can get the info I need from it.

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Is that the "metric" grading or the US "SAE" grading? (Probably not the right terms, but I am too tired to remember properly.) Our US "metric" 8.8 bolts are roughly equivalent to SAE grade 5.

I wasn't meaning to imply that a high-speed engine CAN'T use toothed belts cam drive, just that the existing design MIGHT not be able to handle it. Strains go up with increased RPM, exponentially IIRC, and stiffer springs just add to the strain. Durability might become an issue. And too much oil pressure can be as bad as too little. Flow becomes more important, as this is waht props up the pressure. One street-turned-race-engine that I read about (Datsun's L24) had issues with the oil being thrown out of over-zealously drilled conrod journals at high RPM, and starving the further-from-the-supply journals of oil. (They also had some nasty harmonic issues due to crank length, but not terribly applicable here.)

Turbos were chosen mostly for their use of "free" energy... not exactly true, but truer than mechanically driven compressors. A mechanically driven compressor is consuming power all of the time, whereas a turbo-supercharger uses virtually no power until it starts producing enough flow to produce boost. I was reading a Mercedes Benz webpage a year ago, and they were talking about their Mechanically supercharged model (the C230???... memory too flaky :-\ ), and they stated that their supercharger required some 54 HP to run at the engine's HP peak. Can you imagine taking 54, or even 30-something horsepower, off of an EA-series engine to run the compressor? You would have to run 7-8 PSI of boost just to break even. Now, in reality a turbo-supercharger does not use "free" energy, but takes its toll in backpressure that the engine has to pump against on its exhaust stroke. But the amount of energy is far less than a mechanically driven device would require. The turbine-compressor is also more efficient at compressing air than current positive displacement compressors. Mechanically driven centrifugal compressors suffer from being tied to the engines speed, and thus willl have a narrow range that they are useful. A turbo-supercharger's speed (and thus its output) are divorced from the engine speed, and is capable at producing useful flow over a wider range of conditions. Turbo-superchargers are not ideal, but they tend to be more practical than mechanically-driven superchargers. Myself, I am interested in 2 different methods: Fluid-ring compressors and thermo-compressors.

TPS, MAF, maybe EGO. Alphabet-soup for free.

I have a SOHC 2-valve-per-cylinder that I routinely run to 12.5k and has seen 13.5k. Come to think of it, the crankshaft length is about the same as the EA82's... The timing belt could also be a problem at high rpm, as the load on them will increase greatly with RPM.

All of the "L"-body radiators should interchange, as long as automatic's tranny cooler is factored in. I don't have access at the moment to dimensional info, but the only issue is if the listing for the earlier radiator is really for an ea81; computer listings are unreliable for those years, and the "fits GLF" kind of indicates EA81. EA82 radiators are pretty generic for fitment.

My dealer charged me $75!!! Dealer in Moscow, ID charged $33-ish, according to service records on another car. Prices may vary... "Plasti-Gauge"... doesn't really come thick enough for this clearance check.

That solenoid controls when your charcoal canister is purged of fuel vapors. Other than a possible smallish vacuum leak (depending on what side of the valve snapped off), it should not have any effect on your performance. Make sure that your ignition is in good shape, particularly spark plugs and wires, and that the timing is set properly (this requires connecting a set of green connectors near the fuse box while checking setting the timing).

No. Once the pressure plate bolts are tightened down the clutch disk should be clamped tight; this is its "normal", power-transmitting state. Did you install the clutch disk facing the proper direction? The "nose" of the center splines should be poking out of the pressure plate fingers, and the flat-ish side of the splines should be facing the flywheel. If the disk is in backwards the pressure plate will be unable to properly clamp on the disk.

Bushbutton-selectable shift-on-the-fly.