NorthWet

I am with GG: Either something is getting lost in the translatio between what the Tech thinks that he is telling you and what you have typed. No "transfer clutch" or FWD fuse on manual trnamissions. Any Subaru Tech that doesn't know that probably doesn't have a clue about anything deeper within the tranny. Something to check (but might not make a difference in the end) is to grab the inner joints (the DOJs) of the front axles and try moving them around. if they move significantly (flop around) I would think that the diff side bearings are shot. These should be replaceable by just pulling the axle on that side and following procedures to remove the retainer, the seal, and the bearing. IIRC, you want to complete one side before you do the other to maintain diff alignment. My belief and/or the details may be off, so if you try replacement look into it further. GG is probably right that the easiest/cheapest will probably be just replace with a used tranny.

You mean like Datsun used? Like the ones bolted to the R160 on 510s and the R180 on 2x0Zs? Or am I misinterpreting "bolt flange style"?

Probaby has more to do with radiator functioning and driving habits than fans per se.

I agree to keep it simple. The one thing that I would do, if you are using the ignition switch to do the cranking (and not a remote starter switch), is to either disable the coil or ground the coil's secondary wire. If possible, unplugging the ignitor connection or removing the primary wires from one of the coil terminals would be best. If you just unplug spark plug wires the coil will try to develop enough voltage to jump whatever gap exists, risking damage to ignition components. Although I wouldn't worry too much, another thing might be to unplug the injector's connector. The amount of fuel we are talking about is minimal but the SPFI system makes it pretty easy to prevent fuel being injected.

Yes, the system is vacuum operated. Perhaps the place to start checking is in the engine compartment, right (passenger side) firewall, there should be a small milky-white plastic vacuum reservoir a little smaller than a soda can. These tend to leak as they age, but also the hoses could be off or damaged, or the one-way valve in the engine-side hose could be missing or backwards.

Probably not mtnman38, as he does not live in Gorst. Assuming that it also had a hood scoop, it was a friend of ScoobyWagon's... don't think the guy is a member but I do think he looks in occasionally. He has an ER27 under the hood.

Pull of the outer covers and take a look. It is easy to get the belts off by a tooth, even twice in a row. (That is why it is a good idea to turn the engine over a couple times and check the timing after everything is aligned and tensioned.)

The mods are much more extensive. The EA82 is a wider engine, and most that I have heard of have had to "massage" the frame rails (like with a hammer) to get enough clearance. I don't believe that the crossmember from an EA82 is a bolt-in to and EA81, and if it is than you have to deal with suspension mount differences. And then there are the tranny/clutch issues. The EA82Turbo is fuel injected, so you need a diferent fuel pump and should upgrade hard lines plus IIRC add a fuel return line.

The CTS corrosion is such a problem that some of us have taken to soldering wires directly to the CTS and bringing the connection out a foot or so further. One Member has posted that he started doing this after finding not only the connector corroded but also the first 4-5 inches of the connector wiring, which was in an almost inflexible state.

OT indeed. How did we get from a couple $$ of plastic edging to esoteric screens... Oh yeah, my 12 year old monitor shows green grass but magenta/bluish Hatch. Rob, I did not know that there were regs regarding bumper height and car height vs. GVW. I guess they get ignored alot 'round here. (Lots of 'yotas that I want to push over on their side. )

Thanks for your understanding. Having 2 better-running examples certainly gives good context. I re-read the thread, and did not see mention of the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) being checked. The connection and connector wiring on this item seems to corrode easily and often. If you haven't already done so, it would be good to check. It is hard to get at, behind the intake manifold and kind of underneath the EGR solenoid (easy to break!!!). They don't seem to fail so much as just develop corrosion.

The other device is the Neutral switch, IIRC. OK, some basics. What do you consider "misfire"? You mention it shakes a little. It is a 4-cylinder, so it will have some shake, and since it is a boxer some of that shake will be as if an axle was stuck from the ground to the sky and the engine pivots around it. The engine mounts are pretty simple and not designed to dampen/isolate the shake much. All of mine shake. A misfire should show up as a definite bump, and usually accompanied by a change in engine sound. (Sorry if you already know this, just trying to "get on the same page".) Also, is your idle at spec, both for in Neutral and in Drive?

The 3AT is all hydro-mechanical. The 4EAT is electrically controlled. Replace the vacuum modulator. It is only a $15-30 part. NAPA shows 2 different sizes (diameter), don't know what the diff is though. This may or may not help your idle, but it will keep you from draining your ATF and causing grief with your tranny.

Datsuns/Nissans, mostly "Z"s. Did you check out the link that I posted on the first page?

This should be a 3AT with vacuum modulator; parts stores call it something else, but I can't remember what. (It is used to let the tranny know when you have the throttle fairly wide open, so that it can "kick-down" into a lower gear.) The modulator is a can, approx 1.5" in diameter and perhaps 2" long on the right- (US passenger-) side of the tranny just above the fluid pan joint and is just forward of a similar (but knurled exterior) can with wires going to it. The modulator has a rubber vacuum hose running to it, and if you pull it off and the hose is wet or drips ATF then the diaphram on the modulator has ruptured. Another thought, since you mentioned your spark plugs are white: How is your EGO (Oxygen) sensor? My plugs tend to be fairly clean/white, and theat seems pretty normal. Is yours ashen white?

Man, it is good to live in the boondocks!!! I like my cars to run clean, but I have had my fill over the years with inflexible testing. If I had to put up with that for my herd, I would be bald(er???) and gray(er!!!) and have ulcers by now. Congrats on being legal!

Depends on who did the reman and how much they care about quality. Back in "Ye Olde Days", you had little choice other than factory-original or reman. I have never had any problems with remanufactured parts (other than recently with axles). Nowdays, with our "Global Economy" (cheaper foreign labor and materials), more stuff is sold new. I am not sure that any of it is better, but people like the idea of "new" better than "rebuilt".

A properly tuned SPFI system would indeed be a big improvement. But then, if you set up your carb for specific driving situation (eg - level highway cruise) you could do nearly as well. I do like the SPFI system. When I put the R180 in my 510, it really made a difference in my cruise. With my Z20 engine and 5-speed, it will cruise nicely at 80mph with less RPMs than it used to (with L16/4spd/origR160) at 55. At 55/60, the engine is purring at a nice, relaxed RPM. Did have a little problem with the swap, as I didn't grab enough parts (axle pieces), and ended up with a mishmash of axles left to right. But that was bad planning on my part, and PAP recycling cars too quickly. IMHO, a 16% ratio change could equate to a 10-15% mileage improvement. Much of the fuel consumption at freeway cruise is due to just frictional losses due to engine RPM (and to some extent load factor).

As Mick said. Intake is .010 Exhaust is .014 Exhaust are typically the larger clearance.

Pics look decidely not-green. :-\ Have to teach you to use photo-editing software... or at least white-balance on your digi-cam. Cool flares. Do they reach far enough down in the back to keep WSP out of your hair? ( A buddy got hassled because his bumper was above the centerline of his hubs (barely), requiring him to have mudflaps.)

Many/most calipers that incorporate a parking brake require the piston to be screwed in, as Turbone described. Another thing to remember is once it is screwed in far enough, to align the v-groove of the piston so that the inner pad's pin fits into it. If you don't horrible and embarrassing things will happen.

Ummm... The GL1000 through GL1500 are all watercooled. I suspect that one or two others in the list are also watercooled. The transmissions would not likely hold up in a car. There is a difference between accelerating 800lbs and 2000+lbs. I also have not seen anyplace near me that sells inexpensive motorcycle drivetrains. Perhaps buying a wreck from its owner, but not by buying something from a dismantler.

These differentials were also used in Datsuns, and the larger ring-gear units (R180 and R200) were used in Datsuns/Nissans. The R180, a direct bolt in replacement in my Datsun 510 for its original R160, came in a 3.364 ratio. You may need to play a little with the axle stubs for Subaru use, but there should be info here for that. A useful guide to Datsun/Nissan diffs and their ratios is at: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

Then he would have needed to repaint the hatch in a green camo so that it would accessorize properly.

Well, I was thinking of using it for flexi-airdam and side-skirting. Now I won't feel (nearly) as foolish if I do it. My worry about the Redneck label involves a carport collapsing and 6 subies being crushed...