NorthWet

So, are we talking transplant or making an offroad Legacy?

How far off were you on the NOx? Overheating might have some effect, but depending on what mode was tested/failed, it is more likely the CatCon, EGR, or EGO sensor and/or A/F ratio.

Now that my brain registered "union", I see what you did. I am not sure if that will hold the pressure, but you won't die if it fails. Return line fix sounds fine. Any idea what the flow and pressure specs for the EJ unit are? Got a project that could use more flow than the EA82's 6cc/rev...

Resetting occurs pretty much anytime ECU loses battery power for more than a few minutes, which on these cars would be several times over the years.

My favorite place to pay to get verbally and financially abused. I don't go there anymore; I use the one on Kitsap Way in Bremerton. Staff is typically more friendly and helpful. I am around all evening today and most of tomorrow until 5:45-ish. Chico area.

Price and turn-around time?

Apparently not. Although maybe not accurate, I view it as resetting short term memory (current codes) and long term, saved memory (stored codes).

Also, to keep leverage from totally working against you, have your ratchet-wrench/boxend wrench on the bolt head so that the body of the wrench crosses to the other side of the sprocket (as opposed to sticking straight out from the bolt past the edge of the sprocket). This should give a little counter-torque instead of multiplying the torque trying to turn the sprocket. With this and either GG's T-belt method or a strap wrench, you should be more than able to break loose (or just plain BREAK) that little bolt.

Far, FAR easier just to swap in a 3.90 rear diff. Standard diff on almost all Old Gen subes (Turbos excepted ). This should cure your bind and your concern about a leak.

I think that he was using a silicone-based grease, like a "vacuum grease" that would be used in an industrial or laboratory setting. And I have also found the mightyvac to be pretty useless (after paying $50 for it!), but I have not tried using a vacuum grease yet.

Andrew: Sounds like flare wrenches weren't the issue, just that the tubing wasn't sliding in the flarenut. I had an issue like that recently with brake lines... what a pain!

10mm socket needed, but 6mm bolt. You can also use/make a pin-wrench and hold the sprocket still.

Please note that in his first post he said "to the EJ22 lines", kind of implying that he might also be adding the 100+lbs extra of an EJ22 to the front of this, plus dealing with torque, plus his larger tires. Don't dog him about "needing" PS. I would suggest trying to find replacement lines. Shouldn't be too hard to find some used lines, especially from all of these people that don't need PS.

Postus Resurrectus!!! Check the original posting date.

The 4EAT used a 3.70 ratio rear diff, and the GL (assuming non-turbo... D/R, correct?) is a 3.90 ratio. Big problems if you try to use 4WD with that mismatch.

Josh's writeup is where to start. Don't get wound up in the list of codes yet, as some may have been around for awhile (depending on how you got the ECU to cough them up). I had 3 on my new-to-me 90, and after I read them and cleared the codes they have gone away. These were probably from pulling the engine and recharging battery, confusing the ECU.

Sounds better than hammering on a 6mm bolt with breaker bars and impact wrenches.

To answer your main question, just jumpering across the connector with a wire with similar gauge to the ones in the connector should work. I have used a paperclip on several occasions, and keep one under the hood for emergencies. To comment on your water temperatures, the state of water in a pan is hard to determine. (Boiling at the bottom of the pan just indicates that that spot of the bottom got hot enough to vaporize water.) Best to use a thermometer.

Well, a ring-and-pinion, but no differential. Picky, picky, picky.

You are welcome to borrow my FSM.

All of my "L"-series have the 90 degree style. Did the Parts guys grab a book and trying matching yours to the illustrations? I have a NAPA Temperature Control book with lots of illustrations and several listings for Subarus around that year. If you can post a pic I can see if I can match to the book. *edit* - My guess would be NAPA 208651 (83-84 Subaru) DIA: 2-3/4in, Length: 7-1/4in, 16mm male fittings 180deg apart, site glass and 2 switch ports, no mounting flange. Tell me where its not right and I can try again

Thanks for the update, GD! Glad you guys got it figured out...before I ran into the same problem!

Keyway shouldn't cause an issue removing, just with aligning the pulley when you put it back on. Use penetrant oil (PBlaster or similar) keep wiggling (including wiggling it back on and then off again) and it will eventually come loose. Or you could try using a 2- or 3-jaw gear puller. Either way, patience wil help to get it off and not damage anything.

Sometimes, the castlenut is torqued, but the washers were not installed correctly or insufficient torque was applied (should be 140ft-lbs, can't remember newton-meters) and everything loosens up. Please recheck the castlenut in a week or two.

Thermoswitch activates closer to standard t-stat temp, around 195-205F, and switches off around 180-185 IIRC. EA81-style switches grounded through the radiator, but EA82 just passes through and needs a separate ground; can't recall whether switch is between power and fan or after fan. As Mikeshoup typed, fan is only energized with ignition on. Several people have used the T-switch to activate a relay to control their fans, but make sure the relay is protected from the weather and splashes.