NorthWet

First off, stereo "wattage" is a figure that means almost whatever you want it to mean. What you need to do is find what the rated draw of the stereo is. Hopefully, somewhere in the spec-sheet for it it will list max/min operating voltage, and max amperage draw. As previously stated, wattage is just the product of voltage and amperage. The trouble with dealing with non-DC power figures (stereo) is that power is time-relative: Some power ratings are given as instantaneous (peak), some are integrated (area under the time-domain curve) or RMS, and some are just fanatasy.

Good advice, and cheap, too! Water pumps rarely if ever fail to pump. It would take something catastrophic to cause this (like a seized bearing/shaft). Their usual failure is leaking. Cold zones in a radiator, especially not just at the very top (which could be coolant level) is an indication of plugged tubes in the core.

Manually shifting the tranny isn't going to bother it. All it is doing is pushing a little shuttle back and forth in its tranny valve bore. Just don't overrev your engine by forgetting to shift. If yours is a pushbutton 4WD, you can also engage 4WD leaving the light. BTW, you really shouldn't be having this kind of problem unless something is not quite right in the tranny. Guesses are fluid level/condition, governor valve sticky, kickdown system having issues (there is no direct connection between accelerator cable and tranny).

Never check with the engine off. The reading is meaningless (it will appear MUCH fuller than it really is).

Unless you did something nasty to them, the front wheel bearings are probably fine. If you hear noises it is probably an axle issue caused by improper assembly/tightening of the axle nut. (more info if you want it) Is your car carb'd or SPFI? (I am not sure what Canada got.) The cold-start sure sounds like a carb. Otherwise (if SPFI) it sounds like the idle valve (not its real name, but tired and can't remember right name). Oil pressure sounds relatively normal.

:eek: Clutch set US$180-ish from NAPA reman axles US$130-ish (core 130-ish) from NAPA Not buying stuff from the dealer... priceless!!!

What do you want to do? (Too tired to understand "work into") The carb engine is not a direct drop in... the EA81T has special heads and special pistons. The fuel system and engine management are way different. If you are just trying to run a simple motor in it, you would still have to replace the fuel pump (and deal with some minor fuel line differences) and lobotomize the ECU.

Service facilities offer a "power flush" which will change all of the fluid at once. It is pricey (around $60-70) and I have heard (on USMB) that they might not do this for Soobs. I do the "change and repeat" myself, but that is because I am cheap.

Radiator is partially plugged. Maybe half or better. "hot water rises" doesn't count when all of the water is hot (has to have something to rise within) and it is moving in a turbulent environment. Save yourself some headaches and get a radiator. They aren't too expensive online (radiatorbarn.com is one that I plan to try) and will give you years of worry-free driving. Old radiators are just failures waiting to happen, and these engine do not like cooling system failures.

Patience... As long as the seats aren't too wide, they can be adapted to fit. There are several threads about adapting other seats into earlier Subarus. "Search" and "Similar Threads" (below bottom of this thread) would be a good place to start. Basically, they all involve making brackets/adapters to fit the Subaru rails to the new seat.

GG has good points. IIRC, overcharged will allow the compressor to come on until the overpressure occurs, and then cut the compressor. Is my memory (and my brain) scrambled-eggs this morning? :-\

They might wonder what the screwholes are doing in exactly the right place. Slightly askance of topic: Anybody have any thoughts about using a standard oil filter on a remote-filter assembly as a tranny filter?

Car should do just fine without risk of rolling. FWD should also be just fine. I've seen everybody in my class get beaten by a Honda 600. Power isn't everything.

Probably the low pressure switch, assuming that the compressor is not even trying to come on (cycling on for a second or more and then shutting off). If this is so, the method you used for charging the system may not have been correct. BTW, it will help to know what vehicle this is on.

Huh???

Tranny cooler is for automatic, not manual. Too much bother to go with a WRX radiator, just get a new 2-row-core COPPER radiator and you will be fine.

I don't have a lot to pass on right now except: The uninterrupted-12v wire needs to be just that. You do not want it to be a switched power source (like switched at the ignition switch) because it is what maintains station presets and other remembered settings. There should already be an uninterrupted power line for the stock radio. The switched-power is the one that will allow the stereo to come on like a stock stereo.

Megasquirt WebSite: http://www.msefi.com/ And major USMB thread about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19123 IIRC, the ECU uses a 6502 uP (might be 6809... been awhile since I looked and it was an 85 ECU). If you wanted to build a new ECU that used a more modern processor and used the existing pinout/wiring, that would be interesting.

Yup, that is what I am going to have to do... as soon as I finish putting the valve-body back in. Thanks for all of the info on this! (BTW, same dealer says that he has no listing for a replacement filter. But then, I have never been impressed with this Parts Department.)

Maybe because consumers think that SS is the best material, so manufacturers pander to what sells? Sort of like aluminum in cooling products? Maybe you are Special?

I beg to disagree with your understanding of this. Too hot of a spark plug will cause preignition (somewhat by definition); preignition will cause some loss of power, increase in engine temps, and a predisposition to detonate. Detonation is the uncontrolled, rapid, abnormal combustion of the combustion chamber's endgas (that part of the mixture furthest from the point(s) of ignition). Pinging and knocking are 2 interpreted variations of detonation, depending on how much endgas is involved. Detonation is common, preignition is not, but they both can feed an escalating cycle of each other. Almost by definition, an engine's combustion is at its most efficient when right at the edge of detonation, so most modern cars are tuned to be on the edge. It is common for engines to ping (detonate) lightly under load as the engine management tries to walk the line. By lightly, I mean a couple pings interspersed over a second or two. Any oil in the intake mixture will greatly increase the likelyhood of detonation, as oil is less stable in the endgas and will degrade quickly into lower flashpoint molecules. A knock sensor senses all vibrations, and its controller looks for signals with very rapid rise and fall times and a certain threshold amplitude. The knock sensor may be failing to produce sufficient signal amplitude for the controller to think the pinging is a problem. Or, everything is working as it should.

Any idea what the annealing temp is for that SS? I've thought of getting a large kiln or electric oven to do such stuff. Might have been just an oxy/acetylene cutter. That was one of my first thoughts. Too hard to either use a circle jig or hole cutter? Or at least clean it up with a grinder?

FYI: My local dealer won't sell the retro kit by itself... I need to bring the car in and have them install it. They say it is because it was part of a Recall action.

Sorry. I guess most of us thought that your orignal question had gotten answered in the first post, and then we got silly, with some useful info intermixed. As I see it, you have 2 choices: Spend big money (relatively) to find a good 1/4" drive torsion beam torque wrench, or learn the fine art of guesstimating low torque values. I have been working with small bolts for 30-odd years and have found nothing more useful than experience. I have also broken a lot of small bolts (mostly early on), some with expensive fixes needed.

"Well, I tacked it... what else do you want?" WHAT did they use to cut that flange? A dull rock? I was unimpressed with their header design, now I have even less interest in them.