NorthWet

Dumb question, but one that needs to be asked: You did check the ATF level with the engine running, right?

As in, "the brake caliper will jam or grind against hte spokes of the wheel." I discovered THAT one the hard way!

The calipers rubbing wouldn't be enough to damage it. I second Mikeshoup's question about the ATF level, especially if some spilled/leaked when the TC was off. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a fluid change if you haven't already done one recently. Is the "POWER" light indicating an error?

Any update? free BUMP

PLEASE!!! I am not an expert on this problem by any means. Wealth-of-experience will trump my basic electronics/mechanics any day.

I am *suspecting* that it could fry the ECU. The dropping resistor limits the amount of current that the injectors draw and that the ECU's switching transistors have to handle. Bypass the resistors and the power that the transistors have to switch increases dramatically, potentially causing the transistors to oveheat and blow.

Well, it sounds like the good news, or at least not REALLY bad news...yet. If you can, jack up the front of the car (and properly support), make sure that the tranny is in neutral and the parking brake is off. Try rotating each of the front wheels. If they turn ok, try the same thing but on the back wheels. Back to the tranny: Did you properly seat the torque converter back onto the transmission before you tried putting the engine back in? On the 4-speed especially, it can be a pain. When you bolted the engine and tranny together, did the bellhousings come together fairly easily, or was there a 1/4inch gap that you had to clsoe by tightening the engine-to-tranny bolts? (The gap and the bolts are a BAD indication.)

Have you checked for an XT radiator recently? I did about 2 months ago, and Modine and the other major manufacturers have discontinued them. Modine and the majors have also discontinued the 2-row cores for GL/Loyale Turbos, though it sounds like RadiatorBarn still can get them.

If it is unplugged and you get a full-scale hot reading, this typically indicates a wiring short to ground. Justys MIGHT have a backwards reading temp-sender, but I haven't heard of that.

There will be a certain amount of lean anyways, and all of the suspension will weaken/sag with age. But I would be more suspect of the rubber mounts and link bushings being old and crushed.

Well, yes. Most, if not all, radiator manufacturers no longer make a radiator for the XT series. (XT6s have been this way for a while.) If your old radiator was all metal (maybe even if it wasn't) you can have the old top and bottom straps (the steel brackets that hold the bottom pegs and the top mounting holes) and have them put on a similar GL/Loyale radiator. Same dimensions, just different mounting holes. I also responded to your other thread regarding the car not wanting to move.

Let's step back a bit... You had the engine out, correct? You mentioned flexplate, so this is an automatic? If automatic, is it a 3-speed or a 4-speed? if automatic and engine out, did you remove the torque converter or did it pull out from the tranny a little bit? Back to car pulsating: Does the car roll ok in neutral and being pushed by hand?

Right strut tower; an aluminum-clad "tootsie-roll"-shape (the large kind not the little bite-sized things) with a many-wired (5? 6?) pigtail and connector on its bottom. Remember, just because it may still be present and connected doesn't mean that it wasn't removed from the circuit. Other possibilities exist for shorted control lines.

You might consider recouping your costs by selling off the engine. EBAY or Craigslist are 2 options. How much do you have into the engine?

The problem/difficulty is aligning all of the shafts when reinstalling the TC (takes some patience), but I think that Gary has that covered.

Did someone bypass the dropping resistors for the injectors?

I shouldn't post on 2 hours sleep! Ed, I wasn't disagreeing with you at all, as you are far more likely to be right. I was just trying to offer a path if that didn't pan out, but in hindsight should have kept my fingers still unless the switch checked out ok. (heavy sigh)

Which way are you swapping? If turbo into carb chassis, it is far more complicated. Starting at the back and moving forward: Swap Fuel pump, swap fuel lines (FI is higher pressure and requires a high-volume return line), ECU, wiring, engine w/exhaust up- and down-pipes, engine crossmember. If you are planning on using the turbo's tranny you swill also need its axles. Probably a few other things that I have missed.

BTW, water in the oil is probably just a blown headgasket. Very common with this engine. Blocks don't crack much if ever, heads tend to crack in the exhaust port in the divider between the port runners for the 2 cylinders (look straight in the exhaust port at the ridge of aluminum and look for coolant traces).

Could be cruddy or broken. My guess is it is broken. Hope I am wrong!!!

Regarding your previous question about cam timing and ignition timing being related: Yes they are, in that the ignition timing is dependant on the cam timing being correct. Confirm that the cam timing is correct, then check the ignition. I can't remember/see if you said that distributor had been removed, but if it hasn't then the ignition timing should be close.

The difference here is a wealth of experience, 3x the age of many others to gain the experience, and the intelligence to understand the experiences. Please note that Ed, unlike many others, didn't say "I had the exact same problem". IMHO, suggestions from him are worth following up on. 4x4_welder, you said that you had jumpered (or similar wording) the starter. Does that just mean to the solenoid, or like jumper cable from power to starter? My '82 caused me grief (pre-USMB ) when the main ground cable connection at the engine/tranny went bad. I replaced the battery cables and cleaned all of the ground and power connections I could find. Regardless, Ed is right in looking for the common connection in the failures.

I understood that the 2.2 was going into the 84. I was just thinking that "free body" could mean "free let's try this"bashed-in back end might warrant a little Brat/Baja experiment. Rob, if that t-case was used on Nissans that came with the 2.4-L4 or the 3.0-V6, can't see any reason it can't handle the EJ22. BTW, sweet deal!

Wagon or sedan? Munched-back = Baja-conversion!!!! Let us know if parting happens.

That is an 84 or earlier. $100-400, but probably on the lower end unless it has some new parts.