NorthWet

You can bypass the ignitor and the control circuitry by attaching a wire to the grounding side of the coil (the opposite side to where the power enters it; I don't have a wiring diagram at hand) and momentarily touch the other end of the wire to ground. If your coil is receiving proper power and the coil is good, you should get a healthy spark from the coil's HT lead.

Thanks, GG. This was a torque converter for a 4-speed automatic and not the 3-speed? Seems kind of inexpensive.

Bummer. I have seen one head that was as bad as yours sounds, and the valve seats were tilted at an odd angle... Forgot to mention that one reason for alternator or A/C belts being wrong is that Subaru used two different configurations for alternator and A/C. One has the alternator mounted outboard of the compressor, the other has the alternator mounted inboard of the compressor.

Want to try some more "ghetto"? Try putting some sort of fuel plenum (for lack of a better term) before the pump that you can route the regulator's return flow to (or at least most of the flow from it). This might help you two ways: Reduce the strain from the suction head for the pump to raise the full volume from the tank to pump level, and reduce any possible strain trying to push the return fuel back your vent line (or whatever you are using for fuel return). I had considered something like your temp setup for doing an SPFI conversion, so it would be nice to see if this works.

This is in the Fuel section and not the Cooling section? (CTS and not temperature sending unit, right?)

I agree with Turbone about parts stores. Most of the computerized systems confuse EA81 and EA82 parts. Usually by 1990 MY they are straight, but nothing surprises me anymore. (Wait until you try to get tuneup parts!!! ). I am lucky in that most of the parts stores around here has at least one ex-/current Subaru owner, or at least have dealt with enough Subaru to know that they have to think a little. Headgaskets sets do not come with crank seals. That would be a separate seal (commonly available here), part of a full gasket set, or part of a "conversion" ("head"-to-"full") gasket set. The tranny issues are probably because you have 4-speed automatic, and they are uncommon enough that most computerized systems (and parts books) do not list them. Changing the tranny "filter" in a Subaru (pre-spin-on filter) is a pointless frustration and waste of money, as it is just a screen. And just to add a little salt to your wounds, cracks between the valves on a Subaru are common and usually mostly cosmetic. Your worry is more with cracks in the exhaust port divider.

The sensor shows infinite ohms? Is this before or after you scraped off all of the corrosion? I can't remember what the specs are for the early CTS, but it should be pretty much the same as the 89 CTS. Chilton's, which I think confused the CTS with the temp gauge sender, claims 180ohm-25ohm (ambient-212F). FSM for a 92 Legacy specifies 2.5Kohm-500ohm (ambient-212F). As far as the wiring, are you using a regular ohm/multimeter to test for continuity across the 2 wires of the connector? If so, this reading is likely to be meaningless due to the semiconductors at the other end of the wire(s). Even if you are using a diode-test function, it is still likely to be unhelpful.

Gee, how good are you with 727s? The beauty of the 4EAT is that the TCU is in complete control. The beast is also that the TCU is in complete control... or not. I am surprised that the TCU is not reporting any errors. That kind of implies that the tranny is not getting supplied any input power via TC, or that its output is going nowheres. Since one of the front axles isn't spinning, I think that output issues can be ruled out (unless a stub axle broke or pulled loose from the diff). It does kind of sound like the pump is not effectively pumping, either due to low level, pickup issues (pickup is supposed to be VERY close to pan, so that a dent could cause issues) or maybe an internal leak.

Looks like your core is bunged up a little...

A lot of it does matter, because some of the EA81 engines in that year had hydraulic lifters. The valve covers are a different color, and have a sticker on them that says not to adjust the valves. When these tap, you don't typically adjust them, you do work that makes the hydraulic lifters work better. It is probable that you do not have a "hydro" motor, and that your valves can/should be adjusted. Valve clearances should be intake: .010in (+/-.001) exhaust: .014in (+/-.001)

Good suggestions in general. But, FYI... There is no governor on this tranny, and no diff-lock. The first is a "so what", but the second means that this test can't be done; The TCU will decide when to activate the transfer clutchpack.

Not quite sure what you mean by this. The transmission and front differential are a unit (a transaxle), so in this regard yes, they need to be removed as a unit. Given the car and the tranny type, AWD was assumed. I am just about out of suggestions. This tranny is fairly rare in the Old-Gen world, being used only in '88+ Turbos, XT6s and maybe some XTs (not sure). You might want to get the attention of either some XT6-familiar members (grossgary immediately comes to mind) and/or maybe some New Gen folks (Legacy777 might be a good starting point) as the 4EAT was used more in New Gen (though not directly interchangeable). Given the relative rarity of this tranny, you may be in for some difficulty if it needs replacing. I have a spare, but its previous owner said it was having problems (minor, relative to yours ), and I believe that XSNRG still has at least one.

+1 Ethanol is a big buzz word, but last I saw numbers on it (admittedly 8-10 years ago), it took more energy to produce than it contained. (You have to factor in the energy to grow and harvest the feed stock, to ferment it, and to distill it.) It was not a viable "renewable" energy source, but more of a political public relations ploy.

"Correlation does not mean Causation." May be no direct connection between the smoke and the oil pressure gauge READING. However, I would check to see if the revving dislodged the oil pressure sender wire.

Legacy (and I assume Impreza) does not use a semi-trailing-arm rear suspension, but rather a separate hub, double-link (A-arm/wishbone) with a trailing link. In other words, the hub is completely different design from EA81/EA82 and utilizes a different suspension design. Nothing is impossible, but you would have to come up with mounts for the inner-control-arm mounts (near the diff) at the very least.

Well... kind of an unusual problem. So, let's think of some other possible problems. Does the PARK position keep the car from rolling forwards and back? (Maybe the shift cable/mechanism came adrift.) *edit* - And if you take it out of PARK will it roll? Do you have sufficient ATF in the tranny? (Separate ATF and diff dipsticks; ATF is near the starting motor, buried amongst starter cables and ATF cooler lines.) If you remove the rubber plug from the timing-mark access hole (top of the engine's bellhousing) and look at the torque converter and engine's flex-plate (TQ attachment point, like a sheet-metal flywheel), does the torque converter spin along with the flex-plate? (might have lost/sheared mounting bolts.)

Thanks! I thought I was losing it.

Regarding oil compatability, I know enough not to use PAG oil without a major cleanout effort, and haven't heard of any major problems with the oils used in conversion kits. Ed, have you had any evidence of refrigerant loss through the hoses (as was originally a concern with conversions)?

2 things to check: First, while sitting still (duh!), and trying to move, look in the engine compartment at the axle shafts and see if one is spinning, either at the tranny stub or along the shaft length. (This shouldl tell if either an axles's DOJ broke or the wheel's hub stripped.) Second, is the "POWER" light on the dash blinking (16, or is it 17?, times) when you start the car? If so, this is indicating that the "4EAT"s Transmission Control Unit (TCU) is reporting an error. If the latter is the case, there is a procedure to get the TCU to cough-up its error codes. It sounds more difficult than it really is. The following is courtesy of Grossgary: okay here's how it really works...this is going to sound so convoluted and dumb, but i promise this is the the way to read the codes: START THE ENGINE and allow it to warm up for about 2-5 minutes... Turn ignition all the way off. 1) Turn ignition ON (don't start the car) 2) Check if POWER light comes on (if not, light or circuit is faulty) 3) Turn ignition OFF 4) Shift into "D" range and turn 1-HOLD switch ON 5) Turn ignition ON 6) Shift into "3" range and turn 1-HOLD switch OFF 7) Shift into "2" range and turn 1-HOLD switch ON 8) Depress accelerator halfway (I just tapped mine to the floor once) If the light stays lit continuously, the range switch, 1-HOLD switch, idle switch, or the circuits of any of the above may be faulty. Otherwise you should get 11 blinks (total of 12 if you count the 2 second blink before the items are checked) (pay attention!!!) A "no problem" condition should be represented by 0.1 seconds of light, then 0.9 seconds of off time for each of the 11 things on the list. A problem consists of 0.6 seconds of light and 0.4 seconds of off time. These times are very close, but you'll be able to tell a difference I promise. Quick light is no problem, long light is problem. You'll have to count to see which one indicates the problem! List of items checked... 1) Speed sensor #1 2) Speed sensor #2 3) Throttle sensor 4) Shift solenoid #1 5) Shift solenoid #2 6) Shift solenoid #3 7) Duty solenoid B 8) Duty solenoid C (4WD only) 9) ATF Temperature sensor 10) Ignition pulse 11) Duty solenoid A good luck,

One of the reasons is that ethanol is antagonistic to many of the rubbers that used to be used in fuel systems.

One of my projects is a 90 Legacy that is destined to be my wife's (once I get it running). Amongst other issues, it has a seized A/C compressor and most of its refrigerant is gone. I have a replacement compressor, but am trying to decide what to use to replace the refrigerant. My options seem to be: A) have a service center replace the R12 do a conversion to R134a, either partial (refill only) or full replace lines and maybe some components C) use an R12 substitute such as Freeze12 (which a relative says works great) Any recommendations or thoughts?

Important information needed: Is this a 3-speed or 4-speed automatic?

I can practice to my hearts content, but might blow them up worse trying to test them without a testbed/wiring diagram.

Well, I tried to find one and I guess that I will have to eat my words. As others have said, it sounds like an SOA-only part, as no one else even knows of its existance. Might go with the cheesy aftermarket tranny fluid filter for $25...

(Thought that I had replied earlier, but don't see it...) The belief/consensus is that a failing alternator can damage the digi-dash, probably by blowing out the 5-volt regulator in the dash. I have wanted to research/fix this problem, but I don't have a writing diagram for the digi-dash, so have no good way of testing a fix. If you want to be a guinea pig, I can try replacing the voltage regulator (common 7805 IC) and see if things work...