NorthWet

A little "cross-pollenation" from the world of wood working. It is a common method for removing screws from wood. There they use brass tubing, available in many sizes from hobby stores. Brass might work for you, too, but the aluminum may be a little too hard for the brass. (Though oak and maple can be pretty hard, too.) Good luck!

My counter-opinion is that detergent/non-detergent oil should make little or no difference for ring seating. All the detergent does is help remove and suspend contaminants. Non-detergent MIGHT have an effect by leaving grit/particulates around that MIGHT scuff the rings, but it will also scuff everything else. I would rather have the breakin products removed by the filter... In Ye Olde Days, they recommended against detergent oil because it was new, more expensive, and would produce more ash when burned; not really the issues anymore. Way back "Then", if you used it in lawnmowers and some motorcycles it would void your warranty. That was Then and this is Now. BTW, were your rings "plain", chromed, or moly-filled?

If you end up having to cut out the bolt, get a piece of steel tubing just larger than the bolt and a couple inches long, take a file and cut some serrated teeth into the end of the tube. Chuck it into your drill and cut around the outside of the bolt. One thought on the broken bit is to ruin its temper before trying to drill it.

You should not be able to see the freon stream, as it will appear as a clear liquid. If you see a white froth, this is not the proper state for the freeon to be at for this point in the system. (Though, even in a properly charged system you still may seem some froth/bubbles.)

What did the water termperture gauge show? My first thought was that you overheated. Coolant not flowing properly (plugged radiator, insufficient coolant, air bubble, etc) will cause the oil to heat up and thin out, dropping oil pressure, and will cause detonation (pinging).

You guys think too much sometimes. If the flywheel is on, it is super simple to run a pressure-plate bolt through a chain link and hook the other end of the chain around a bolt or stud on the bellhousing. (I normally use the same chain that I used to hoist out the engine.) No reason to risk bending valves or causing FOD. For the crank bolt, either an impact-wrench or a breaker bar and hammer.

Jim, one thing that MIGHT have happened, depending on how they did the work and how down on power it is, is that the mechanic might have stuffed a rag into one of the pipes to prevent foreign object damage (FOD) to the turbo, and then forgotten to remove the rag. You might want to check with the Dealer's Service Manager, explain the situation, and ask exactly what they did, how they did it, and if they might have used a rag to prevent. Do this in a non-confrontational manner, and they might give you some useful info. Go ahead and check to see if turbine spins freely. Try a boost gauge (vacuum/fuel pressure guage should work just fine). Pull the TURBO plenum off and see if a rag is sitting in the throttle body inlet; make sure that the clamps holding the throttle body are tight. Might also be worth checking to make sure that they didn't touch the ignition timing. Throw in a fresh set of spark plugs... I had a set crap out when I used some fuel injection cleaner...

Vacuum line to the switch shouldn't measurably effect power, just whether or not the light comes on. IIRC,the switch is on the inner fender (right-/passenger-/turbo-side), and there are a pair of them (one for the light, the other to tell the ECU that boost is high enough to go "open-loop" on mixture control. The "Power" light on the dash is the 4EAT's controller (TCU) switching to firmer shifting. Debris is possible, but I would thing that it is unlikely in this circumstance. Worth a check. Is the dealer close enough to you (I can't remember :-\ ) that you could check with them? You can have a SEVERE exhaust leak and still get boost. My T-Loyale has the common fractured uppipe turbo flange, producing a halluva racket, especially at startup, but will still go positive boost (but not a lot) around 3k rpm.

Dashboard light is an indicator for positive manifold pressure, and lack of the light could be because of burned out bulb, bad pressure switch, or vacuum hose not being connected to pressure switch. Car could seem slower off the line due to it being quieter: Much of our perception of "power" has to do with noise. I doubt that the turbo has gone bad... no boost makes an EA82T a REAL dog.

Per a posting in: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60618

Having disconnected several driveshafts recently... The diff end uses 12mm wrenches, and the driveshaft side is semi-"captive": the bolt head can't turn due to interference with the u-joint yoke. All of my nut/bolts have broken loose fairly easily. I don't know what the center bearing carrier needs to unbolt it from the body, but I would guess a 17mm socket. Tranny yoke is a slip fit into back of tranny. The JY tranny will be drained of fluid, but yours is likely to leak when you pul out the yoke, so be prepared. Some driveshafts have bolts at both ends of the rear shaft, others can't be easily removed from the carrier/front shaft.

The "wires controlling your choke" should just be simple power and ground, as all it does is power a heating element that heats up the bimetal coil inside. (I am making an assumption that the Weber is like every other auto-choke that I have seen.) If the choke has only one wire, run it to power; if it has 2 run one to power and ground the other. Once this is done, wait a couple of minutes and see if the choke releases; if it doesn't, the choke has issues. Yes, you should be able to switch from automatic choke to manual, and you might even be able to find a manual choke kit at your auto parts store that can be adapted. (They are harder to find these days since it is illegal to make this mod.)

Is this our very own Peninsula Subaru? If so, I understand.

You can't jack the car up with jack under the diff? Does the car have rear disks? If not, probably no LSD would be my guess.

Did you get the the forward-facing one on the front of the engine under the compressor? (I am assuming that this is "factory" A/C, with the compressor mounted between the PS pump and the alternator.)

If you have done a headgasket and need to retorque an EA82 head, it would be nice to have the special socket that makes it so you don't have to remove the cam-carrier. The usual way to do this is to take a socket and grind and cut on it until it fill fit in the tight space. Well... I was at Sears the other day looking for some sockets to mutilate for this purpose, and came across something that might work just fine. It is a shallow 6-point 17mm socket with integral u-joint (3/8ths inch drive). I test fitted it on an EA82 head and it seemed to reach all of the bolt heads without any noticeable angularity of the u-joint. Part#9 43208 Desc: "3/8 In dr. Flex 17mm socket" List price: US$8.49 The only concern that I would have with it would be that u-joint angularity would have to be compensated for somewhat when setting the torque wrench, but it doesn't look like it would be significant. I have not checked to see if this would work on the EA81 head nuts, but I suspect it would. Looks like it could be useful in other situations, too. OZ/NZ friends (and any other non-US folk): How are the socket-drive sizes specified in your areas? Ours are all "English"/SAE (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"). Do use the same "convention" or do you have metric drive sizes? (This post taken from a response I gave in: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60372&page=2 )

As GD says, the ignitor (really, just a specialized transistor) should be mounted on your coil bracket. May be wrong, but any 87 (87+?) or later vehicle should have the same ignitor. One thing that you might check is ensure that the coil bracket has a good ground, as I am told that the ignitor grounds through this bracket. (I haven't seen a schematic, so I can't say for sure.) A flakey ground could give you your flakey ignition. Clean the coil bracket mount points and see waht happens.

My first thought was ignition electrical... like overheated coil or flakey ignitor. But reading your full post I am thinking fuel pump issues. Is yours a carbed engine? If so, when it won't start remove the air cleaner and work the throttle linkage and see if the accelerator pump squirts gas. And/or get some starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray into the carb or air filter inlet and see if it will try to start then.

I believe he meant that when you mount the wheel on the studs and tighten up the lug nuts that you do the originals first. BTW, in many (most?) US States it is illegal to run tires that have some of their tread width completed unshielded by fender/flaps. If you run tires that project outside of your fender wells then you risk a ticket. It is hazardous for those around you.

I would go ahead and change/flush the ATF. Dirty, degraded fluid can cause sticking of the internal actuators. Diff oil is gear oil. It is in a separate tranny segment from the tranny internals and its ATF

Any similar EA82 engine. (Head-casting/intake differences between MPFI and SPFI, so stay with what you have.) Ancillaries vary, including distributors, but engine castings are the same. Anything newer than the EA82-series require effort: MAJOR wiring changes, adaptors for engine to tranny or engine/tranny to unibody, etc. BTW, in what way did you "blow the engine"?

Re: The original question... I was at Sears the other day looking for some sockets to mutilate for this purpose, and came across something that might work just fine. It is a shallow 6-point 17mm socket with integral u-joint (3/8ths inch drive). I test fitted it on an EA82 head and it seemed to reach all of the bolt heads without any noticeable angularity of the u-joint. Part#9 43208 Desc: "3/8 In dr. Flex 17mm socket" List price: US$8.49 The only concern that I would have with it would be that u-joint angularity would have to be compensated for somewhat when setting the torque wrench, but it doesn't look like it would be significant. Looks like it could be useful in other situations, too. OZ/NZ friends (and any other non-US folk): How are the socket-drive sizes specified in your areas? Ours are all "English"/SAE (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"). Do use the same "convention" or do you have metric drive sizes?

That would be McBrat: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html

I have wondered this all day (Note to self: Get a life...): What makes you think that the tranny is blown? It is far more likely that overreving will blow up the engine before it bothers the tranny. Is there a hole in the tranny's case? Sorry for going OT, but these things nag at me.

I've been out of such things for a couple of decades, but "way back" it used to be a choice of mat, roving, and cloth (in various types down to "deck cloth"). I haven't heard of E-glass, but that doesn't mean much. One thing to consider is what type of resin to use: Polyester or Epoxy. (May be newer choices or blurred distinctions now.) Polyester is much more flexible than epoxy, but has less stiffness (duh!). Epoxy is stiffer but tends to be brittle (will crack where polyester would keep flexing). Polyester is an anaerobic cure, which means that the surface will remain uncured unless you use a special type usually reserved for the final coat (name escapes me at the moment, but it contains a wax that rises to the surface and blocks off the oxygen). Epoxy doesn't have this tackiness issue, but may need to be sanded if left to long between laying up the layers. There are also specialty resins, including "gel coat" which is intended to be applied to the mold (after the form release) and produces a smooth surface.