NorthWet

What he said. Have someone turn on the A/C while you watch the compressor; does it turn for a moment then stop? There are pressure and temperature sensors, typically mounted on the receiver/dryer. The most likely is that the pressure sensor is giving a no-go for the compressor clutch. You can try bypassing the sensors for a moment and see if the clutch engages (or you can directly activate the clutch.

35/64ths is more identical to 14mm than 9/16ths.

Aggravated the lifter tick? I have had TOD so bad I thought it was a bad rod bearing. What is the oil pressure like? You might want to change the oil filter just in case the Seafoam broke a lot of sludge loose.

One exactly does "nothing happens" mean? You have checked that the compressor is not turning when you do this? Is the A/C fuse in place and good? Is the compressor connectors connected? With the engine off, can you turn the compressor by hand?

Thing to try: The aforementioned breakerbar resting on a secure spot on driver's side frame area, disconnect coil, turn starter. FOD: Foreign Object Damage

Are these old (stored) codes or new? To avoid confusion, I would clear codes and start fresh to see what is current. If these are all new, I would look to some systemic problem, like a bad connection to the ECU. Check grounding of the ECU, and reseat all of the connectors to it, and maybe some of the connectors in the engine compartment.

The auto tranny section of my 92 FSM is 219 pages. Narrowing things down would help, as it would be difficult/impractical (at the moment) to scan the whole thing.

Haven't seen too many metric bits around here. A 14mm is what you truly need. A 35/64th is just a few thousandths of an inch smaller than 14mm.

My 35/64ths is nearly perfect match for holes in steel rim that I tried it on. BTW, one of the locals may have found an inexpensive source for high quality 35/64ths bits. I need to check it out.

Legacy777 should (that is where he got the scans) and so do I. What do you need?

Accuracy can only be assumed. A similar schematic for the crank position sensor was simplified compared to a fuctional cutaway. It would be easy for the coil schematic to have left off details like a common positive and separate secondary windings. You are probably right, though.

Well, I found a diagram in the FSM that shows the paired cylinders sharing opposite ends of the same secondary inductor. So, yes, this should give you the result that you are seeing. This is a simplistic diagram so it may not be accurate, but if it is, it implies a few other things: One of which is that if one cylinder misfires it may cause its paired cylinder to misfire.

Test the wiring and gauge: Check to see what the gauge's "state" is (is it still maxed when you just turn on the ignition, or is it at lowest reading? Now, with the ignition stil on, disconnect the wire from the sender unit; the gauge should now be at its lowest reading. Ground the disconnected wire, using paperclip, wire, screwdriver, whatever; the gauge should be maxed out. Assuming that you got the min and max readings, your wire and gauge are OK. If not, then either the wire or the guage have an issue.

Or instead of getting a new/rebuilt unit, you might get/borrow a unit from some local who might have a spare or two...

According to the FSM, the APS is used to control how firm the transmission shifts relative to altitude. Does not say anything regarding effecting AWD functioning. FSM says that it is on the B44 connector, pin9. Helps alot, right? Looks like the TCU has 3 connectors in a row on it, with one connector (B33) slightly wider (across its minor dimension). Next to it is B44, and there is a "step" where the wider B33 "steps upwards" towards the narrower B44. B44 pin 9 is on the edge with this "step", 4th pin in from the step. The FSM implies that the TCU is near the steering column, and warns that it is also near the airbag control module (92 FSM).

According to my *92* FSM, it is a signal from the ECU, and the error indicates an open- or short-circuit on this wire. Manual says to replace ECU... I would check the physical wiring first, maybe reseat connectors to the ECU and TCU.

I would imagine that the EGR (and purge, for that matter) changes would be well within the closed-loop envelope of the map. A smart engineer/programmer would anticipate for failures in the EGR and purge, and allow the system to compensate rather than risking engine damage.

I would suggest talking to a machine shop before you get in too deep. Ask them how much to remove the bolt and repair the hole (probably core-drill the bolt out and TIG-repair and retap the hole). Might not cost too much, compared to broken bits, easy-outs and frustration.

Assuming that the round connector is 2-wire, with greenish wires: Air strut solenoid control. If no air suspension, no matching connector.

First thought was fuel filter; still might be, even with you changing the filter. Second thought was fuel pump issues.

The camshaft sprocket is supposed to have some "preload" (IIRC, around 10-15 ft-lbs) just to make sure that all of the slack is under the tensioner. How did you set the timing? Did you first connect the green connectors by the wiper motor? If so, did you remember to disconnect them again? Engine should not be backfiring (duh!)... sounds like a valve/ignition timing issue. I would not be concerned with the temp too much if it hits a certain point on your gauge and then stays there (does not climb above it noticeably while under stress). One of the connectors that you cleaned should have been the CTS (2 wire connector, screws in to water-contact); I can't remember exactly where it is on the SPFI (ones on turbos are a PITA to get at).

To add emphasis to what TomRhere typed: You do NOT use TDC for setting timing belts. You need to use the three closely spaced, scribed lines on the flywheel/driveplate. The left and right cams need to be phased 180degrees apart: When one cam sprocket has its timing mark pointing up the other cam sprocket should have its mark pointing down. Rotating the crankshaft one full revolution should reverse which is pointing up and which is pointing down. The engine is a non-interference design: You can rotate the cam or the crankshaft and not worry about bending valves.

I'm not even sure how one would get the tensioner that tight... but... You will get differing opinions about the t-stat temp. There is a lot of shade-tree lore and old-wives tales about t-stats and such. My opinion is that 192F is what came stock, and should continue to be used; changing to anything cooler is a band-aid, and an ineffective one at that. (Once the opening temp is reached, it is open and any increase in operating temp is unrelated to a properly functioning t-stat.) How hot is "hot"? This is all relative to what your gauge used to read, not its current absolute reading (1/2 scale or 2/3 scale only relates to its original "normal" reading). Have you rechecked coolant level? It sometimes takes me days to get the cooling system properly filled; a steep incline really helps. And patience... Regarding, down on power, maybe rich: I can't see (I am in "Reply"-mode) if yours is fuel injected or not; if it is, the Coolant Thermo Sensor (CTS) could have bad/corroded contacts at its connector. With FI or carb, the EGO sensor (O2 sensor) could be disconnected or bad. If carb'd, the duty solenoids might be disconnected or malfunctioning. (BTW, rich running will sound somewhat bubbly/blubbery, lean will sound kind of dull and hollow, and about right will sound sharp and ripping.) Spark plugs or wires could be deteriorated. Should check the plugs anyways to see if their color looks ok or if they are sooty or oily. What is your timing set at (and, if you have not already posted, carb or SPFI/MPFI)?

Various bad running could be caused by being one tooth off. Fairly easy to pull the outer covers and check.

The reason I asked about rings is that the cylinder should be finished to "match" the ring-type: Chrome needs a rougher finish than moly to break-in. Hopefully, the machinist knows his stuff well enough. Break-in on the rings will also vary depending on ring-type.