NorthWet

Everybody relax... breathe... exhale. VWRX, monstaru is a good source of info and has always been very helpful. I will not speculate why he answered as he did, but I would suggest that you try to let it roll off. I know that I have typed responses that were misinterpreted, and a couple times I have just plain ticked people off. It happens with everybody sometime. It even happened with you: You might have been better off with just typing the last line of your response, or perhaps said thank you and let it be at that. Anyways, you have a definitive answer (one that has been restated several times in the last week, BTW). And the EA71 is the earlier 1600cc version of the EA81, coming in subes from the late 70's (78???) through around 1981, referred to generically as "Gen 1". Others are likely to have better, more accurate info, but that is ballpark for you. Personally, having lived through the transition from points to pointless distributors and worked and driven with both, I would try to find why the pointless one doesn't work. Take care, and welcome to USMB! Pat

I am reasonably happy with mine. I had an S/K for 20+ years, until it broke internally, and then I needed something quickly and cheaply. (Torque wrenches don't break in the tool box but usually in the middle of something that shouldn't be interrupted.) If nothing else, it makes a wonderful breaker bar, and cheaper than most BBs.

Thanks, Ed. I wish that I had been home when you called. I can always use a spare alternator...

Subaru 3ATs cooler lines empty into the fluid pan... they are basically a return line for the torque converter. They have high flow but low pressure. Radiator tranny coolers are brazed up units that are just added to one header tank of the radiator, and their flow and pressure tolerance have nothing to do with what the radiator itself can handle. That being said, I do not know if they can handle full engine oil pressure.

Replace it. Should be easy to find a replacement, and the way these are constructed there is no easy fix unless you like cutting and welding... alot. It takes a while just to cut off the heat shielding to get at the tubing.

The number on my 2 '90 automatics are: TZ102ZA1AA

Better to ask the mechanic about his question. Too many reasons why he might have asked, and most of them are unrelated to the exhaust gasket area.

Automotive ignition ignitor. This catalog is one that ETs would use.

Yeah, I would not normally recommend such things to people who had not already used them... but in this case we are talking about an extractor with a very large cross-section (10-13mm??). And the plumbers device isn't a conventional easy-out, but rather a cam grip sort of affair.

Maybe use a very big easy-out/screw-extractor. Plumbers use a pipe/nipple extractor that goes inside of the pipe/tube and expands to grip the inside and can be used to twist out the pipe; this may be useful, depending on how the PCV valve broke, but the one time I tried one on a mower exhaust nipple my extractor broke. :-\

Where does the disty mount on the EJ series? And Monstaru, you are using a regular Escort disty??? For my driving wants/needs, I would rather have the precision of the EDIS and EFI, but getting something up and running quickly is appealing.

The diff tag on my 90 automatic LS sedan says 4.111

Weird... sounds almost as weird as breaking off a sparkplug in its hole. Might be easier to just replace the manifold. Should be able to find one for cheap/free, and to get at the broken PCV valve you might end up removing your manifold anyways...

Most of it can be figured out by just looking at it, assuming a reasonable level of mechanical ability. The tensioners and idlers just unbolt normally, the only thing to pay attention to is which tensioner goes on which side and where the tensioners' springs attach. The timing belt alignment is a little less obvious, but pretty easy nonetheless.

I'm not into this "Us vs. Them" thinking. Owning both of what are considered "Old-" and "New-Gen" vehicles, I find that I am pretty consistant as to how I view both. I think that the real difference is between people who buy vehicles New and people who buy them Used (and I don't mean "Previously Owned"). People who buy New tend to want it new and shiny; we who buy Used think that we can put the shiny back on, or don't care if the shiny is worn off.

The code is for the solenoid, not the valve. The solenoid no longer has the proper resistance, probably either open or shorted. Get a replacement solenoid from junkyard, replace with proper value resistor, or try one of the solenoids from another make of car (someone was talking Toyota a week or so ago).

IIRC, fan's temp is pretty high (202-ishF, with a cutoff around 195F). Guages read radically different, so hard for someone else to guage what is "normal" for yours. Temps in our region are expected to peak at 92 degreesF; previous record was 88. Many of us here are kind of heat wimps, and this is too hot too soon in the Summer.

Hmmm... Northwest.... nighttime... big lights... 80+ degrees F... Spend most of your time trying not to get eaten by the bugs!!!

I have personally had good experiences with JDM imports. I have bought several over the years, the first one some 25 years ago (BTW, it is still running fine, thank you), and haven't had any problems except with one Nissan tranny that had a very weak synchro, and the importer replaced it under warranty. One thing to note with JDMs is that they only guarantee that the engine will match, not the intake/exhaust/ancillaries. So, if you are considering a swap of a JDM 2.2 for your USDM 2.5, you may end up with "issues". Not really an issue if you get a USDM 2.2, other than waht grossgary pointed out. You mentioned that atarco said that they wouldn't interchange... that may mean that you can't LEGALLY interchange them, and they couldn't do it for you. California is pretty sticky about such things. (Don't get me started on my efforts to "smog certify" my 71 Datsun!!!)

I believe that calebz has done so, based on my recollection of previous posts. (But that and $5 will get you a coffee ) Reputable... in my area... hmmm... I think the last one on this side of the water went TU (belly up) a couple of years ago... they charged more than NAPA/Schucks/etc. Last time I had NAPA resurface a flywheel, they made it a pretty dish-shape. Now I have trouble finding a place that resurfaces flywheels at all... most sell flywheels on an exchange basis. Things like the gasket are what I want to hear about. Also, wire material (steel appears common for cast iron heads, but what should be used for aluminum?) and diameter, whether just one surface is done or both. Things like that. My first exposure to O-ringing was last millenium (1970's, actually), and back then they were talking relatively large diameter copper wire/tube. Now I see mention of .75mm steel wire laid into a square-cut groove. One thought I was toying with was running a dry deck, but the EA82's cooling issues and access to the water-jacket/oil gallery would make that a problem.

Like the title says... Who has O-ringed their block/heads? How did you do it? Did it work? I am planning on doing this on a high-compression EA82T build (or two...) and would rather not "reinvent the wheel".

I am not impressed with the quality of the explanations. Specifically, the writer misstates concepts regarding torque split. Oh well, physics is not everyone's strong suit.

I haven't seen one of these warp by the heads... yet. Usual problem is gaskets... or the very common crack at the turbo mount flange, which is difficult to see due to the heat shielding. Anyways, to answer your original question, I wouldn't go much larger than the original, and certainly not larger than the port diameter. A better blend of left to right sides would help. The orignal pipe has a major restriction about the point where it bends upwards towards the turbo. About a year ago, someone (IIRC, Rallyruss) did a thread about this and showed the restriction and his pipe that he had built.

BTW, an electronics catalog that I have shows replacement ignitor ICs (application non-specific) for about $5 each. When I get some time :-\ I plan on pulling one of my ignitors and taking a close look at it. Maybe with a little repackaging we can have replacement ignitors for a reasonable cost. Might want to hang on to your old, dead ignitors for package reuse...

Different compressors depending on whether it was Factory A/C or Dealer-installed A/C. Factory uses an inboard mount compressor (alternator outboard of compressor), Dealer uses inboard alt/outboard comp.