NorthWet

Differences may just be differences, but... ... there is often great difficulty getting the right parts for model years 85-88(89?) due to an overlap of EA81 and EA82-engined vehicles. Sometimes it is better to ask for a part for a year outside of this range (ie - 83 for EA81, 90 for EA82). I can't remember reading of any significant clutch-disk differences between EA81 and EA82 models, though. The difference of what turns what when one or the other is turned is likely to be just a matter of frictional differences.

Does the exhaut show excessively rich running? How about the spark plugs. Common issues are incorrect timing belt timing, incorrect ignition timing, bad ignition components (plugs, wires, rotor, and cap in about that order), and bad Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS). I have heard that disconnecting the MAF wiring will show whether it is malfunctionigng or not: If it runs beter with the MAF wiring disconnected then the MAF is suspect. This is what I have read... :-\

The 2WD vs. 4WD distributor difference is legend, and one respected member claims it to be a myth. (I do not know, just passing condensed info along.) I have also only read this in reference to EA81, and I believe that yours is an EA82. "Turbo muffler" is a generic term for a certain style of muffler. Origin of it was from the muffler designed for the Corvair turbo or the 60's.

Thought 1): It could be just a leaking intake manifold gasket. Thought 2): The expense for the head set isn't the gaskets so much as the replacement "torque to yield" head bolts. Thought 3): When I faced an obviously blown head gasket a couple of years ago, I looked at head set cost vs. JDM engine, and the JDM was not that much more. Went the JDM route. ISHINO, IIRC, is OE (Original Equipment) gasket manufacturer. Haven't heard of Stone, probably a redistributor.

The grinding noise may just be a loose/undertightened axle nut. Some manuals misstate the torque value as around 100ft-lbs, and IIRC it should be 145ft-lbs. (Check around the site for the proper number... or wait for someone to respond that hasn't been up and working for 21 hours... :-\ )

Probably was a friend of ScoobyWagon's... got an XT6 engine in it last time I heard.

Ditto the slow and patient. No force beyond hand turning and tapping. You have several shafts that need to line up and seat.

Hi, Jerry. Did you also swap over the donor's distributor (with the Cam Angle Sensor that the SPFI ECU needs)? You didn't mention it, so I thought that I would ask. Also, are the green "diagnostic" connectors still connected... the ones that the donor car had near the wiper motor? I believe that this would cause the fuel pump to cycle... not sure about its effect on the ECU light.

I would go ahead and install a new clutch cable, as you eventually need to do it anyways. Pay particular attention to the cable routing (following the original routing), as it sems that if you route it a little differently it is harder to depress the clutch (more friction, sometimes dramatically so). Subarus tend to be self-oiling , so most of the parts that you need to break loose shouldn't be too difficult, with the probably exception of the exhaust flange bolts (assuming that you are going to remove or shift the engine to gain access). Of course, what we consider rust here on the West Coast would hardly be noticed in your area.

Well, the Carolinas are kind of "down under" most of the other US states...

I can't imagine anything causing a visible wobble while the engine is running that wouldn't be directly related to the pulley, such as it being bent or the pulley bolt having backed out (latter is common on EA82s, don't know about the EJ-series... yet). Seems to me if the main bearing was that badly worn you would have more serious symptoms, like outrageous knock, low/no oil pressure, massive oil leak out of the front seal.

Assuming that this is a 3-speed automatic (aka 3AT), then I would agree that the governor assembly is the first place to check. The valving gets gummy and quits functioning properly, misreporting vehicle speed to the tranny valve body. Pretty easy fix... just take your time and do it right.

Details...details... I would like it it... I didn't say it would be easy (or practical).

The biggest differences aren't because of the "T" designation, but rather it is MPFI and few other EA82s are. MPFI means different heads, different intake systems, different PCV system, different computer, wiring and fuel systems. All the "T" really brings to the party is a different crossmember and different exhaust plumbing (and some minor intake differences).

First off let me say that I consider this product to be simply a way to separate the ignorant/unknowing from their money. That being said... Aerodynamics is a complicated science. Do not discount the possibility that a stationary aerodynamic device can improve air flow; airplanes make use of all sorts of devices to do so. Their wings often have vortex inducers to produce turbulence that disrupts the boundary layer and allows the air to follow the wing/control surfaces at more extreme angles. But a twisty-doodle in the intake stream well above all of the other turns and twists and opening and closing valves and combustion chamber swirling. Can I sell you amyone some permanent magnets to "organize" your non-polar fuel molecules??? Only US$50 this week only!!!

Any oil inducted into the engine will lower the knock-resistance of the mixture. Clean oil, clean PCV system, maybe even try a condensation can on the PCV system, and see if these help. Another possibility is the EGR system being plugged or inoperative. Since the EGR system operates primarily at partial throttle, and its purpose is to lower peak combustion temperatures, it not working could allow part-throttle detonation to occur.

What overhead cams bring to the party is the ability to run the valves predictably at higher engine speed. They do not "increase power", just the ability, if taken advantage of, to provide better breathing at higher RPMS. The short stroke means short pushrods on the EA81, so not much difference in valve accuracy with max RPMS that we are likely to run. The real difference in power potential between the EA81 and EA82 (US spec, at least) is the combustion chamber shape: Bathtub vs. wedge. (vs. pentroof in the EJs...) Valve size and shrouding, port shape all come from CC shape. No reason you shouldn't get 100 BHP/L from either engine... higher compression, wilder cam timing, better breathing, spin it faster. But would you want to drive it on the street? One of the qualities of the EA engines is their torque curve, and to get real power you have to shift that curve up the RPM range and make it peakier. BTW, what I would like is an EA82 or EJ22 with chain-drive for the cams. Sealed, reliable, durable. Noisier, more expensive than a belt to manufacture. But my Datsun has 300k on its chain...

If it is truly white smoke and not bluish or steam, than it is ATF. Pulling the vacuum line off at the vacuum modulator and checking for ATF in the line is a sure test, and pretty darn quick to do.

Almost certainly ATF. If it is white smoke (does not dissipate like steam) it is ATF, probably from a ruptured vacuum modulator. (Not what the parts store calls it.) The VM is located on the (US) passenger side of the tranny, just above the fluid pan next to a similar but larger can that has wires running into it. THE VM has a rubber vacuum hose runninfg to it, and if you remove this hose at the VM it should be dry but will probably be wet/dripping with ATF (indicating ruptured diaphram). Cheap ($15-35) and simple to replace.

No worries. Certainly easier to say than our "steering wheel adapter". (In my lexicon, a "boss" is a mounting point on a casting or forging.)

"...two countries separated by a common language." For the rest of us (me???), what do you consider a "boss kit"?

My $.02: Run dedicated wires for BOTH positive and negative terminals. Sure, you can ground the negative and get away with it for awhile. But running up to 500 amps through the body means running 500 amps through every weld seam, and electrolytic corrosion will take its toll. FHI runs dedicated cables to the starter for a reason... and those still have issues that require cleaning/maintenance.

Bump...

Bump-a-roo... ... for anyone with an FSM closer/sooner than Cougar's...

Do you mean the spindle from the integral cup, or the axle shaft between the CV and the DOJ? The shaft between the CV and DOJ would produce nasty flopping (which I am sure that you know), and the severing of the cup form the spindle might be nigh near impossible with a sawzall due to toughness of the steel, and the torch would probably ruin that toughness. Maybe a cutoff wheel, which would only destroy the local tempering of the cup and spindle...