NorthWet

And, FYI, the other end of the supply line is on the back side of the head.

The radiator is a crossflow design, so I would expect it to be cooler on the right side (as viewed standing in front of the car looking at the engine) than on the left. You really need to check top to bottom. It is possible that the radiator is partially clogged, yeilding cold area diu to lack of flow... but, again, these usually show up as hot cold horizontal bands across the radiator. As stock90 ask, is the fan coming on??? Usually, when a car overheats around town, but stays cool at high road speeds (you really didn't define "drive the crap out of it"), it means that the cooling fan is not working. Can you keep the temperature down by running your heater at full blast?

My car has a problem that sounds similar. I think that the problem is with the sensor within the fluid reservoir; it may be related to the sensor's float either sticking or floating too low in the fluid due to absorbed fluid; if I had to guess, I would say it is sticking. I have been unable to solve the problem, but have not applied much effort yet. Replace the fluid, try to irrigate around the sensor float.

As stated previously, you want the flywheel set at the center of the 3 marks, not at TDC.

IIRC, the EA82 version of the 4EAT came only on turbo cars from 88 to 90 (91?). They are not all that rare, as I have 2 and have transported a third. The 4EAT CAN get better mileage than a manual. It is not the only thing that has friction... the engine has much more, and if you can spin the motor only 80% as fast, that friction also goes way down. (Automatics require oil coolers mostly due to the torque converter during torque multiplication, not the internals.) Driving my 90 Turbo Loyale home from Portland, I was getting nearly 40mpg... with the turbo being inactive due to cracked uppipe, so my foot was in the gas an awful lot. By contrast, our SPFI 3AT gets about 30MPG, and our turbo 3AT gets maybe 20... The 3AT is not a bad automatic transmission; it is comparable (and internally much the same) as other Japanese automatics of its era. After a little TLC, ours work just fine. My SPFI 3AT is one of the most pleasant automatics that I have had to drive. The 3AT absolutely requires clean ATF, and it usually needs some work on its governor assembly before it runs properly. Any 3AT should bolt up just fine to an EA81. It does not have a lock-up clutch like the 4EAT. It is also considerably lighter.

As long as it is a sedan, wagon or XT, it is an EA82, either SPFI or MPFI/Turbo. What else would you like to know?

Are you sing the same 4 bolts that attach it to the tranny? I wouldn't worry too much, just don't abuse it. My EA82 seems happy hanging on my engine stand... hadn't even considered that the stress would be too much.

Coolant ThermoSensor (CTS) and Exhaust Gas Oxygen (EGO) sensor are two likely culprits. The CTS could have the usual poor connection at its wiring harness; The EGO could just need replacing. Other possibilities are incorrect ignition timing (has to be set a certain way), general ignition/tuneup stuff, and improper/malfunctioning thermostat. A plugged or faulty cat should have little effect on fuel economy (other than maybe making you keep your foot deepr into the throttle more of the time).

I love my JDM Z20... but I have only put about 100k on it so far. It has significantly more usable power (broader torque range, actually) than either the original L16 (duh!) or the L20B that replaced the L16. I have had very good experiences with JDM engines. The Z20 was only about $250 when I bought it 100k ago. My wife's EA82T has had a JDM for about 6 years now, still running strong. It is important to find an honest importer, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another from the importers that I know.

Do you want the proper and exact method, or the quick and dirty? Q&D: Pull out the rubber plugs on the center cover (one for left belt, one for right), loosen up the adjuster pivot bolt and then loosen the second bolt on the adjuster... the spring should take up any slack... then retighten the second bolt and tighten the pivot bolt. Replace the cover's rubber plugs. Proper: Remove rubber plugs, remove outer covers, rotate engine to specified point (IIRC, cam sprocket lined up with its "timing" mark on rear cover), loosen adjuster pivot bolt, apply 10ft-lbs (IIRC) tensioning-torque to the cam sprocket, loosen the second bolt... retighten the second bolt, tighten the pivot bolt, remove the tool torquing the cam sprocket, and replace the covers and plugs.

OMG! Not even something that I would have considered. My 510 w/Z20 will keep up with, if not outrun, my EA82T. If I had the Z24's extra 20% displacement it wouldn't be a match at all. I just can't imagine dropping to about half the horsepower... My disbelief set aside, a little creativeness should allow you to fit the EA81 and d/r mated to the Nissan T-case. Still would seem cheaper to get a JDM Z20 (or larger, if JDM used the Z22 or Z24). Or maybe the VG30...

Are you splitting the case? I would be interested in a couple pics of the water jacket between the waterpump and the water passage to the non-waterpump-side case (i.e. USA driver's side to passenger side).

I think that this is the thread for which you are looking: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47485 And regarding the distributor, I believe that the "better" advance curve only applies to EA81s... or maybe early EA82 (85-86) also.

This MAY be in reference to the pneumatic suspension on the EA82/ER27/etc, vehicles.

Oh, feces!!! Done... ..and, oh BTW, USMB sends me an email message to let me know. You don't need to announce to the WORLD that I am lazy.

The EA81T is the precursor to the EA82T, so much of what is said here about one applies to the other. Similar CR, similar boost (about 7-8psi stock). What is being neglected/overlooked here is that to get more HP what you really need to do is be able to spin the engine faster... like 8-9K RPM. This is pretty much what RAM does. Better breathing, higher RPM. All of the porting and carburetion and intake manifolds won't help if you aren't going to run it much above 4k rpm. And, Holley's 390 CFM 4160 would be a better match to a soob than a 600cfm, but is a bit more pricey that their basic 600cfm. Worked REALLY nicely on my 2.0L Datsun until it got shaken apart...

Or Forks. :-p

Is the entire axle shaft pulled loose from the gearbox stub axle, or did the inner boot rip and the DOJ cup (the part that splines onto the gearbox stub axle splines) remain attached to the stub axle? Either way, sounds like sonething else is awry to allow the wheel to move that far away from normal position; the problem should be pretty obvious on good examination.

It could give you greater potential, assuming that you take advantage of it with a decent intake manifold. The heads aren't that much different, so other than replacing them, mounting the manifold, and any changes needed for the manifold (linkage, hoses, wires) it shouldn't be too hard. BTW, the turbo heads are the same casting as the NA MPFI heads, except that the non-distributor head ("passenger-side" in the USA) has cast bosses drilled and tapped for oil and coolant plumbing, plus the turbo cams are a "mild" grind compared to NA MPFI and SPFI cams.

The confusion might have arisen because the MPFI (N/A or turbo) has two intake PORTS and one exhaust PORT... per head. The carb/SPFI heads have one intake and one exhaust port per head

Headgaskets can blow in all sorts of exciting ways. Does the oil in your oilpan look like a milkshake? It would help to know more info about your car, year and engine-type. If it is the car in your signature ('82) then it shouldn't have any hydraulic lifters/lash-adjusters to be affected by the oil (so the noise is something else).

The clearance between fan and fins aon many 2-row radiators is very minimal. I have had much the same issues...

I'm throwing in with Caboobaroo (radiator) on this one, though doing a compression check won't hurt... but also may not tell you much. Tale of two cars: First, XT with rapid overheating 2-3 minutes of running, worked better with rad cap off and no thermostat. Compression test looked OK. Turned out both heads had long-term gas leakage to water jacket without actually "blowing" the HG. Compression gasses were pressurizing the cooling system and basically air-locking it. Running without t-stat or rad cap allowed it to vent enough to allow coolant flow. Second, SPFI overheating after several miles, cool heater output, cool radiator hoses. Compression also looked OK. Replaced t-stat, no change. Backflushed radiator, cooling improved for a while, but came back after a few weeks; backflushing didn't help. Turned out brand new t-stat started sticking and wasn't opening; lubed its spindle, worked great afterwards. Moral? Not sure that there is one except that cooling system problems on older Subarus can be hard to diagnose, as there are many things that can cause you problems, and one might appear about the time you fix one. Along with the compression test, I would loosen the radiator cap (so that it can vent), and then feel the radiator surface top to bottom feeling for hot/cold areas. I have had a lot more problems caused by plugged radiators than by HGs.

I would be more inclined to believe that there are issues with the plugs and wires on that bank. Perhaps 2 wires are on the wrong plugs. The rotor goes on only one way... but... ... Parts stores often give the wrong parts for 85-88 Subarus, as there were two different-but-similar engine series being produced during those years. Make sure that you got the right parts for your engine, which... ... I assume is an EA82 SOHC engine; distributor on the back of engine-left side cam case. If the driver's side (USA, Left Hand Drive) is the one that seems "out of time", then a "loose" belt on that side would effect both banks since the distributor is driven off of that belt.

Tire circumference can have an impact, but I wouldn't expect a minor difference to show up so pronouncedly in slush. Maybe the difference isn't minor, like different brand/models (same nominal tire size doesn't mean same circumferenece), or maybe wrong rear diff ratio...