NorthWet

My vote goes for a bad sending unit. I have one that is bad; the outer "can" rotates somewhat, and I can dial in negative pressure.

Next time, try some "Shout"... you know, the laundry pre-treater. I did a concrete waterproofing job, and nothing would touch the stuff to get it off of me; waterless hand cleaner wouldn't do anything... even tried the brillo route. "Shout" melted it right off.

Up through the EA82, the Id was just that, an ID. Afterwards, you get an engine series code (ER/EJ/EG/EZ/EF) followed by a displacement signifier (27/18/20/22/25/20/33... and 12 for the Justy). Technically, after the series code and displacement identifier you will often get an identifier that tells something more about the engine: EJ22G (IIRC) is the official designation of the "EJ22T" that was mentioned earlier. Here, we use a lot of shorthand like EJ22T or EA82T, but these are not official engine designations.

You can't please everybody.... "No Clutch Lockout" thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49127 Anyways, it should be a simple bypass. Perhaps the simplest (but not most elegant) would be to stick your head down by the pedals and find the switch that is on the clutch pedal mechanism. (I am working from general assumptions here, not specific knowledge.) Disconnect the connector from the switch and: 1) If the connector has only one wire (grounded by the switch), then run it to ground. 2) If it has 2 wires, jumper the wires together. It is possible that instead of jumpering that you need ot just leave the connector disconnected, but this is unlikely.

Drive to Lynnwood, go to Japanese Engines, Inc (a JDM importer right off of HI-99) and see what they have and can get. They offer guarantees, and seem to be fairly reputable. The EJ22 engine will be more powerful and reliable than a stock EA82T, and should be pretty close to a bolt-in. A WRX "clip" might be another option, but might be more than you want to spend. What is so wrong with your EJ25 that you want to ditch it?

The crudded pcv hoses should be dealt with; restrictions will cause it not to flow air and separate oil properly. "Bubbling out of one of the turbo gaskets"??? Which gasket? What type of bubbling, and what material is bubbling? And depending on what and where, this could be a fire hazard.

Plenty of info if you search, but... What makes you think that you have "piston slap"? In 35 years of wrenching, I have NEVER run across a modern engine with true piston slap. (Sort of a pre-60's problem.) Likewise, boost is simple, as long as the pre-turbo exhaust doesn't leak badly, turbo is reasonably good, and the post-turbo exhaust isn't plugged. Not the info/advice that you are looking for, but: If you can't sort out your current problems without it stressing you, then you will pull all of your hair out trying to do an EJnn conversion. Relax and breathe for a moment.

High idle speed is probably: Misadjusted fast-idle screw (rides on fast-idle cam); too tight throttle cable or throttle-shaft obstruction; REALLY misadjusted idle-speed screw. I would start by ensuring the choke/fast-idle cam are at their closed position, backing the fast-idle screw off of the cam, and seeing what the idle speed is.

Before looking at expensive/time-consuming problems: Have you made sure that your PVC system is working properly? If it is not, you can get all sorts of oil blown/sucked into intake manifold. Is there noise of an exhaust leak near the turbo? The x-over/uppipe is prone to cracking at its turbo flange, releasing whatever oil smoke it has around the turbo. Is it oil smoke or coolant smoke? Either way, check the hoses and banjo-fittings at the turbo for tightness and leaking.

I certainly have thought about, but haven't researched it very far yet. I grew up on hydraulic clutches (Datsuns, Toyotas, Triumph), and it is surprising the difference in pedal effort between those and most of my soobs (I have an XT that is an exception), with the hydraulics being smooth and light, and the cables being heavy and having "issues". Much of the difference is probably cable routing and condition, but a cable on its best day just barely comes up to an ordinary hydraulic. I have a big suspicion that much of our soobs' clutch problems/failures are caused by cable issues; my Datsun uses similar clutch components (size/pressure), but last much longer with no slippage.

Well... I already had one in my toolbox. I think it fits headbolts on something... probably my Datsun. So, I guess they are not that uncommon.

Well, I hope that you don't have an LSD... I hear that you need a real differential at the rear.

I assume that this comment was in response to mine, so... The air jets for the main and idle circuits are at the top of the air horn, just above where the venturi narrowing begins. The jets/orifices point upwards/outwards, and if they get plugged it will effect the strenght of the vacuum signal applied to the fuel jet, causing more fuel to get sucked in. (Analogous to putting your hand over the carb's airhorn while the engine is running.)

Ummm... based on other threads, I am pretty sure that Kennedy Engineering makes adapters for other trannies; at least for VW applications like the Transporter.

An engine-type ID is cast into each motor (at least the horizontally opposed ones) on the top front surface of the block, just to the left of centerline (if you are in front of the engine and looking towards its back). On an EA81, it is near the front-mounted distributor, on the EA82 it is just inboard of the thermostat housing. It should say clearly, in 1/2"-ish tall characters, either EA81 or EA82. (or perhaps EA61/71 or ER27).

My first thought is to eliminate cold-start from the picture. Prop-open the choke plate and see how it runs. Second thought is checking the idle-mixture screw, though I can't think of a failure mode that would cause it to go super rich. Third is possibly a main jet backed out inside of the float bowl; this seems very unlikely, but possible; it also wouldn't be presenting a problem at idle. If all of this is at idle, you seem to have just a handful of causes: Stuck choke, stuck/misadjusted float, misadjusted idle mixture screw, clogged idle air jet, loose carb top screws (or failed gasket), of truly broken carb casting. Or, again, it may not be fuel but rather ignition issues. Always worth ruling out ignition prior to touching fuel system. Anybody near by with a known-working carburetor?

If the fuel pump was putting out too much pressure, it would force the float-valve's needle off of its seat and raise the level in the sight glass. What does #1 look like (looking down the air horn) while the car is running? Choke plate closed all of the way? What happens if you prop the plate open a little with pen/scewdriver/dowel/baby's finger? Does the chokeplate ever open up? (My Datsun's electric choke fell apart some years ago, so I don't even use it... just pump the acc-pump a few times and crank... works better in above freezing weather.) If the chokeplate is open, can you see liquid fuel dripping out of the discharge nozzle or accelerator pump shooter?

First thing I thought of...

Which car(s)? I know that dptyrob (sp?) went through this on an ea82-type about a year ago.

As H said, pretty easy access. Biggest pain is if the 2 phillips-head screws that hold the resistor pack are frozen/stripped... (insert expletives here).

The diff drain and fill plugs are pretty much 1/2" socket sized. I think someone makes a special tool, but I just use the business end of a breaker bar. Heat, penetrant oil, and patience is also useful. Suggestion: Make sure that you loosen the fill plug first. Goodyear Service did an oil change on my Datsun's R160, and removed the drain first... then spent 6 hours trying to remove the fill plug. (I couldn't budge my fill plug, which is why I let professionals have a whack at it.) Better to have old oil than no oil.

The timing light senses a high-voltage pulse. If the plugs are sooted, the voltage will bleed to ground along the insulator, possibly never developing the threshold voltage/rise-time needed to trigger the timing light. If the plug is so wet it takes more voltage to fire than the coil/wire/plug can supply, then, again, you will not get enough voltage pulse to fire the light.

I would start with #3)... although you have sort of a "chicken and egg" problem. Faulty ignition can cause sooted plugs, but sooted plugs can cause faulty ignition. If the plugs aren't firing properly, your timing light's flashes will look erratic. try a new/clean set of plugs and immediately on startup check with timing light. Distributor might have issues, or the coil/ignitor ground might be corroded/faulty.

Does it start easily? Does it idle? How well? Will it drive, or does the backfiring start when trying to get it off of idle? Another possibility is sparkplug wires getting switched. If the car is hard starting and rough idling, the first thing to do is check the timing belts (#1 cause of people tossing away a good Subaru). Then, check ignition components (especially plugs and wires) and settings. The ignition timing has to be set in a particular way on the SPFI Subarus: A pair of single-wire, green connectors near the wiper motor have to be connected prior to setting the timing. This tells the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to stop fiddling with the electronically controlled timing so that you can set the base timing. (Don't forget to disconnect when done.)

Any debris would tend to affect the high-volume speeds more than the low-volume. That being said, anything is possible. Another possiblity (in the same vein as the resistor pack) is that the switch itself is bad and only works on a couple settings. This is probably much rarer than resistor problems, but I have had it happen.