NorthWet

Good advice. I don't have the loathing of the 3AT that many/most here have, but it would help your quest for performance. EA81Ts are uncommon, so please DO get it to someone who will love it for what it is. The EA82T is signicantly wider than the EA81T and makes for a tight fit in the earlier chassis, whereas the EJ22 is closer in width to the EA81T. BUT... the EJ22 is also significantly heavier (IIRC, 100+lbs), so you may need to think about that in regards to suspension and brakes. (Turbo Brat, so it already has vented front disks, right?) Might consider rear disk brake conversion. Unless you have a serious death-wish the EJ22 should give you more than enough power.

Would you please clarify your distinction between knock and ping? (I know how I define them. )

Not quite what was asked... this is from the 1989 FSM that is on "Finleyweb", section 2-3 pg 6: SPFI: Intake (open/close): 10BTDC/54ABDC (Duration: 244) Exhaust (open/close): 49BBDC/15ATDC (Duration: 244) (Overlap: 25degrees) MPFI Turbo: Intake (open/close): 14BTDC/56ABDC (Duration: 250) Exhaust (open/close): 56BBDC/14ATDC (Duration: 250) (Overlap: 28degrees) (Duration and overlap were computed by me, so may be subject to math error.) I thought that I had heard that the SPFI cams were "wilder" than the turbo cams, but it doesn't look this way for this year. I am interested in finding out what the mildest cam for the EA82 series is.

The whole concept of double clutching is to let the engine make the gears match speed in order to mesh. The first "clutch" is to take the transmission out of gear (to avoid gear/synchro damage that might be caused pulling gears apart when they are under load). Then, with the tranny in neutral and the clutch pedal let out, change the engine's speed to match what it will be in the gear that you are going to change into; if a higher gear you just let the engine slow down a bit, if lower then you blip the throttle to speed up the engine. When the engine speed is "right", depress the clutch again and shift into that gear. Experience and consistancy are important to doing all of this smoothly... and without embarrassing noises. Light pressure on the gear shift lever can tell you alot about how close the gears are to meshing. Clutchless shifting uses the same concept but without all of the clutch footwork. Change throttle to allow the engine to "float" between power and engine braking, remove tranny from gear and then change the engine's speed as above and apply pressure to the shift lever at the "right" speed.

Married 27 years next week... explains a few things, eh? You might be right about a GF, but spouse would probably disagree.

One word: Fly ash. (OK, well that is 2 words but what can you expect from a math major? ) Biggest problem that I have heard with incinerators is what to do with the fly ash, which is the residual solids that go up the chimney and get caught by the scrubbers/filters. This stuff is concentrated heavy metals and such. Nasty. Ethylene Glycol is really nasty stuff. Few animals survive their encounters with it. Ethanol only works if you get it to them soon enough, and by the time they start showing symptoms it is probably too late. A friend lost a dog due to a tennis ball that went through a puddle... Propylene glycol is much safer to animals, and is available in "Sierra" brand and a couple others. Same stuff used to winterize RV water systems. *edit* - another thing around my area: The recyclers won't accept "antifreeze-contaminated oil". So, no recycling of engine "milkshakes". I have to take this stuff to the local Moderate Hazardous Waste center, along with ATF and antifreeze.

That is the same reason I threw out where mine was... give him a sampling of where it might be.

IMHO, running without a T-stat is a bandaid. Once a properly functioning t-stat hits operating temp, it becomes a non-issue. If the car is going to overheat it will do so with or without the t-stat, or whether it is a 160 or 192degreeF t-stat. No t-stat, or a cold one, will just increase engine wear, fuel consumption, and emissions. Make sure the rest of your cooling system is first rate. A 2-row-core radiator is good, cheap insurance.

I would consider the term "serpentine belt" to mean that it ran across many pulleys (5+?) and that its backside was run against some of these pulleys. Thus, serpentine would mean more of application than of belt design. Otherwise the belt design is multi-rib.

Amplification/clarification: Is the diff ratio in the 92 different then the one in the 91?

"Power shifting" won't save the amateur any time on the track; probably doesn't save the pro much with a synchromesh gearbox. Learning to double clutch, especially on downshifts, can reduce wear on your synchros (at the expense of wearing other parts). I agree that learning to shift without a clutch is a useful skill, and I learned it early and practice it occasionally.

On my 90 Legacy, FWD fuse is between strut tower and the firewall on passenger side.

(18 year old engine) + (unthought-through boosting) = handgrenade. Drive it, enjoy it for what it is for a while, and THEN think about modifications. There are many engines that I would consider super-/turbo-charging, but not one that WHEN something breaks I would have a hard time finding replacement parts... like heads.

71 through 74-ish Pintos and Capris with 2.0L 4-cyl, and possibly Capris with 2.6L V6. Probably later years on these and Mustang-IIs. But 71 Capri for sure. (Brother had one. I actually liked the H-W 5200, and did a lot of tuning on it.)

Okay, before somebody points out that my two values aren't equivanlent, they were meant to express the last-Millenium view of high-performance: 100HP/liter for foreign OHC engines and 1HP/CI for Detroit pushrod V8s.

Again, the problem with click-type torque wrenches is that they do not work well at low torque values.. like 10ft-lbs or less. A torsion-beam 1/4" is about the only way to go.

The Schucks here take engine oil, but not much else. BUT... they have a pamplet from the the County listing waht fluids can be recycled where. Might be worth checking with your local government to find recycling points.

Amen! Er... I mean, GESUNDHEIT!!!

Known, somewhat crudely, as the "virgin switch". (Every new person to Subarus stumble over this quirk.) Welcome to the world of Subarus!!!

Reliability and performance are inversely related: More power = less reliable. Once you get much beyond 100HP/liter (1HP/CI) reliability starts going south without expensive metallurgy. The route to HP is RPM, not boost.

Last things first. The final drive on turbos is an effective 3.70; the front ring and pinion set combined with the reduction in the tranny shafts works out to 3.7, which is what the rear diff needs to be on 4WD versions. There is a way to reduce boost dynamically based on a knock sensor. SAAB uses this method in their APC system on turbo'd SAABs. For your app, you would still need to do some mods like mikeshoup said in order to get a lowered minimum boost, but the APC allows the boost to be higher than the minimum wastegate setting. And, yes, the SPFI and Turbo pistons are supposed to be physically interchangeable (I have not done so yet, so can't say from experience).

Ahhh, not true, Grasshopper! Weight (measured here in lbs) is a property of mass that is subjected to a gravitational field; or if you are more Einsteinian, a mass subjected to warping of space-time by a nearby mass. Thus, an object would have less weight (measure less poundage) on Mars, but would have the same mass. Now, an interesting thought here is that torque wrench calibration/markings are only meaningful at earth's sealevel; they should really be calibrated in something space-time-warpage independant, but I am too tired to think this one through. I was impressed with Nipper bringing out "slugs". I can only think of 1 or 2 acquaintences that could trot-out the English unit for mass. Well done!!!

Actually, it sounds like he has a manual transmission; if so, FWD fuse doesn't exist. (I assumed automatic on a different thread, and it was a manual; autos on the brain recently.) Assuming it is a manual, it is possible that you have worn shaft bearings. As suggested, do check oil level and/or drain and replace the oil... and look for metal particles in the drained oil and on the drain plug. My 92 with manual was making noises that sound similar to your description, and it got worse despite oil changes etc. Pretty sure that I have munched bearings on the input shaft and/or output shaft. I will find out ehn I open it up...

...meticulously cleaning the block surface, including around the locating dowels...

My D/R 5-speed length is approximately 28.75inches (64.7cm).