NorthWet

Rather than engine RPM, you really need input shaft RPM (and, preferably, pinion shaft RPM). You would also want throttle control. Given these you could make silky smooth shifts... that would be slower than an average human would do on their own.

The coil is only one link in the high-tension/secondary circuit. Plugs, wires (especially if you really ARE just running on 3 during boost), cap, rotor, coil. I had a wire (or two) go bad and it felt like I had several bands of no-boost in my rev range. I have a T-Loyale with a cracked up-pipe flange that has all pipe-mounting bolts secure. Just not a strong design at that flange. (Still cracked 'cuz I can't get some of the nuts broken loose. )

Porsche's "SportMatic" used a microswitch on the shift selector to signal clutch usage. (Their design used a clutch and torque converter in series on a manual gearbox.)

Were there special instructions with the MAF Cleaner... like, "Don't start car immediately after spraying the sensor"?

+1 on spark check. Afterwards, if spark, try some carb-cleaner/starting fluid to see if it will show signs of life. Blowing fire back towards pump, lines and wiring??? See if you have pressure to injector, connect green connectors near wiper motor and turn on ignition, listening for fuel pump cycling on and off.

Others can question the "why?" ("because you can" is good enough for me ). My thought on this goes back to my teen years, when there were issues with shifter and linkage design, especially in remote-trannied (rear or mid engine) vehicles. The shifter often had little or no "feel" to it, making quick and accurate shifting difficult. Your idea would completely remove "feel" from the system. Unless the driver is mechanically insensitive, the shifting will likely be too slow and/or too noisy.

It is a good explanation, but it seems to me that it is biased towards largish domestic V8s. Not bad in and of itself, but it leads to errors and omissions regarding other engine designs.

+1 on the radiator. You don't have to check the entire surface, just top to bottom (coolant runs through horizontal tubes). Radiator changeout is easy, though more complicated if you have A/C and/or Automatic tranny.

I saw 3 Tribecas on my 30 minute commute yesterday... so I think the answer is a resounding NO!!!! Man, are they UGLY!!! (IMHO)

The difference between doing it "by the book" with the crank rotation and doing it 1-up/1-down is the difference between using factory timing marks and judgement. If you do it by the book then anyone can do it right. It takes experience and good judgement to do it "by eye"; almost like ignition timing "by ear", but with much greater chance of success and much less chance of piston damage!

I like it. Looks more utilitarian than the Baja. I was thinking of doing something similar (more pickup than flatbed, though...) with a 5th wheel hitch. And, since I am broke... er, cheap... it would be a little older Legacy.

As in 3.8L V6, or a smaller I4??? Edit- Er, forgot the 3.8s were SC'd. Must be the 2.3L?

Just got off work, so brains/memory feel like scrambled eggs (...mmmm...), but IIRC the GLs rear hatch glass is gasketed to the hatch and the Loyale is glued. I would go out and check but it is 0-dark-thirty here. Entire hatch should interchange.

It is not working hard... it is just spinning faster than you expect. The engine has a really short stroke, and all things being equal (which they are not) would happily spin to 8000-9000rpm. Engine speed at cruise is not that unusual, especially for similar-era Japanese cars. My Datsun 510 would do 3000+rpm at 60MPH.

$150 for glass and install sounds reasonable. Are they saying that the chrome trim HAS to be replaced, or are they just warning you that it may need to be and this is what it will cost? (The places that I have talked to have warned me about the trim.)

AFAIK, SPFI was not available in 86. The distributor should be the mechanical-and-vacuum-advance kind, not the later CAS-only disty.

Intake/Ignition/ECU are different, some electricals are different (dashclock has a different connector). Rear hatch window and rear quarter windows are different. Major mechanicals and most bodywork is interchangeable.

4000 actually sounds too low for 75mph. 3200-3600 at 60mph is normal.

GL-10, so should be fuel injected. Holding accelerator pedal to floor won't help clear flooding.

My first thought is the wires were not put o in the correct order, or that there is some other issue with the wires or any other parts you may have changed.

Smaller clutch-pack or not, I would not expect it to die on its own that quickly. Have you checked the ATF level? Fluid could have gotten low and lost enough fluid pressure to maintain clutch-pack engagement.

The metal sidetanks will be brass. The brass sidetanks can be de-soldered from the old core and re-soldered to the new copper core. If you can get a 2-row, I think that you should do so, as it will give you more safety margin in the cooling system. The single row is relatively thin through the finned area (approx 2.5CM), while the 2-row is closer to 4CM thickness. I forgot to mention that the core dimensions are the same as the "L"-series (Leone) sedan and wagon, so you don't specifically need an XT core. The differences between the XT and other EA82-engined vehicles is the upper and lower mounting points, and somewhat the hose outlet shape (not diameter).

OOPS! My bad assumption. Rebuilding is an option (they take the side tanks off, replace the center core, and put the tanks back on), but if his tanks are plastic I am not sure how many places will do this. Last time I checked locally (several years ago) I was told that the metal crimps were around US$80 and very few places had a machine to do the crimping.

No direct fits. The new-gen radiators are taller, IIRC. Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61926&page=3&highlight=radiator+express ...especially mikeshoup's posts. I just placed an order with Radiator Express for an XT 2-row core, but have not received the radiator yet, nor confirmation that it has shipped. And, expressing my personal opinion, stay with a copper core (not aluminum) and all-metal construction (as opposed to clamp on plastic tanks).

I am assuming this is a 3-speed automatic? If so, no.