NorthWet

The 4 wires are for ground, constant power (fused to battery, similar to what the radio needs to maintain station presets), ignition-switched power (to let the display come on when the ignition turns on), and dash-illumination-circuit power (to tell the clock display to dim when lights are on). Typically the power resistor for the display's illumination power will overheat, damage its solder joints, and sometimes just burn out. This can also happen to the resistor that handles the dimmed-illumination power.

Waste gate is rather integral with the turbo. It is part of the turbo unit and mounts on the turbo. If you saw the waste gate, then it should have had the turbo still attached.

It depends on what you mean by "blew out". Some people might mean that they tore the boot, or that it is clicking. Others might mean that the axle spins freely in the joint... or that the axle is completely pulled out and flopping around. Advice will, or course, depend on how severe the problem is.

Does it act normal while in neutral and the forward gears? (i.e. - not trying to be in Reverse?) If it acts normally, then it is probably the (rod, not cable) linkage adjustment as the others have said. If it acts like it is in reverse in other gears, than your reverse/forward band/actuator probably has an issue.

I can't recall seeing a red and black one running around, but I have seen some beautiful blue ones. In particular, there is a royal blue with topper that looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor.

I can't say enough good about Rob... ...and Ken... ...and Ed... ...and Alan... ...and Mark... ...and so many others in my local region and elsewhere. Rob was the one that gave me a good look at the USMB community, and all of the others have reinforced that view ever since.

+1 with GD and input shaft bearing or pilot bearing; my guess is input shaft bearing. Also +1 with probably replacing tranny. Bad TO bearings usually don't quiet down with full pedal depression

+1 Oil-pressure sender unit attached to the oil pump. Tends to die or get damaged. I can get one of mine to read negative pressure at idle. If your pressure was really that low, you woul like hear the hydraulic valve lash adjusters (HLAs) ticking/clattering/knocking.

Another thought is don't rely on an impact wrench to "torque" something to a specific value. That requires a torque wrench.

I used a nylon-faced deadblow. It worked. Arm got tired, but it worked.

I don't think that doing this swap is advisable, but I will not dwell on that. The backing plate is held on by just the 3 bolts... plus decades of dirt and corrosion. First, thoroughly clean/scrape the hub "snout" that the backing plate has to slip over. Then, the accepted technique seems to be to whack the backing plate along its rim (in the caliper cutout area) to get it to spin on the snout. Get it to move a little in one direction, then spin it in the other direction. Keep working it back and forth, applying ligh prying pressure to get it to pull off of the snout. It can be a pain, and it can take a while, but patience should prevail.

86 XT had rubber-only, and FHI "swoosh' on HGs. Will be opening up an 88 XT in a week or so... Have to check to see if my old 87 "T" still has the o-rings stuck to the parts. Picked up a bunch (8?) of rubber-over-metals at the dealer a while ago. Hadn't seen anybody else list them.

RE: overheating and burping - Our SPFI had overheating issues, thought it was either radiator or t-stat, messed with both several times, and it would overheat/puke coolant for nearly a week after each "fix". Once the air bubble FINALLy went away, temp would be stable as a rock until original problem caused probs again. (Original problem was caused by coolant loss from that top-of-block to t-stat hose.) Moral: It can take an amazing amount of time to properly fill an EA82. Can you tell if the non-disty side of the block is significantly hotter than the disty-side? (I could get water to sizzle on the non-disty side.) From what I can tell from diagrams/etc, the non-disty side gets all of its coolant flow from the tiny transom port at the top of the case joint.

"Compression stroke" and "exhaust stroke" are defined by the valves not by the crankshaft. As long as the disty side timing belt is aligned, you will have set compression/exhaust strokes. You will also have set ignition timing, assuming the alignment is right. So, when you installed the t-belts, you had the pointer at the center of the 3 marks, and when you were done one camsprocket mark pointed down and the other one pointed up, right??? Left and right cam sprockets should be 180degrees apart.

"No lights" means a more basic problem. (BTW, which lights? Are you jsut talking dashboard lights or also headlights/taillights?) Check battery cable connections (BOTH ends of cables, especially ground), fusible links, fuses, etc.

This is not what happens. *edit - took me a long time to hit ENTER... Mikeshoup got it pretty much right. No real friction between screws on the Roots, though. Efficiency of compression makes a big difference; these are not perfect compressors. Centrifigal-compressors usually have a region of compression/flow that is much more efficient than a roots-types.

FWIIW, Dodge truck rims are also 8x6.5"

Greater-Seattle seems to be much more into newer Subarus than the older ones. (I think that this is the case with any Metro area and any make: Live the City life and pace, why drive something not-new?) Lots of older soobs away from Greater-Seattle. Around here, it is about 1-to-1. I make a game of watching for soobs on the way to work, seeing if I can go a minute without seeing one; only time this happens is wee hours of the morning when I may not see any cars in a minute. Port Townsend seems to be Subaru-ville West: Last time I went there, nearly half of all cars were soobs.

Oil in the aircleaner area is coming from the breather hoses that attach to the cam covers. Pull these hoses off, check them for hardening and for restriction (or just replace them); check the hose nipples on the cam covers to see if they are totally clear and not narrowed by gunk. Any narrowing of the breather passages can cause oil to get pumped up into the airfilter and PCV by normal PCV system function. Filler neck "pressure" might be pressure/vacuum from normal engine oepration. 4-cylinder engines are pushing a lot of air back and forth in the crankcase, and some pulses will show up at the filler cap.

"Thanks for noticing..."

Ah!!! Forgot about that stuff. Yes, it could be. IIRC, its function is to provide ported vacuum once warmed up, and nothing when cold. Hmmmm... If it were me (I don't live in an emissions-testing area) I would just bypass that monkey-motion and go straight to manifold vacuum. I don't like to mess with emissions too much, but ported/controlled vacuum has always felt just wrong to me.

Bad "vacuum valve"??? Not sure what this might be.

The resistor (ballast or dropping resistor) is used to limit current in the coil circuit; the resistor was originally used in the points-type ignitions to limit burning/arcing of the points. Sometimes the resistor is incorporated in the coil, but usually it is separate so that it can be bypassed during engine cranking (when available voltage tend to be lower). The absence/presence of this resistor should not effect the old-vs-new testing that you did. My guess would go with a bad or incompatable new disty. Vacuum advance is not speed related, but vacuum (inverse-load) related. It should be greatest at idle (or in the case of emissions-style ported vacuum, just off of idle) and non-existant at WOT. To test if it were working, you would need either a vacuum pump to see the effect of changing levels of vacuum, or at your test's high-idle (3K) connect and disconnect the vacuum hose and see its effects.

It is already turbocharged. The heat will be essentially the same for mechanical supercharging as with exhaust supercharging: The heat comes from compression (darn those Gas Laws!!!) and the efficiency of the compression (turbo-supercharging usually is better here). The head cracks due to compromised coolant flow.

Consider the EA82's 5-speed D/R instead of the 4-speed. Sounds like good advice on the later (and commonly available) water jacketed turbo, plus the intercooler. And more boost = more death.