NorthWet

"The automatic, in particular, is very significant. "It has an advanced (and unique) new system that immediately engages four-wheel drive under hard braking, acceleration, or when the windshield wipers are switched on." Hmmmm...

Grossgary, it should be SPFI. The fuel pump should REALLY pump a LOT of gas when it works, and under a fair amount of potential pressure (up to 50PSI I would guess). So really be careful while playing with an open fuel line, as you may find a lot of flammable liquid all over everywheres if you don't plan for it.

Yeah, I ripped all the threads of of mine... well, it was my bro-in-law's, but now it is mine. EGO sensor came out looking pretty smooth where all of the threads were supposed to be. That was before I read that there was a procedure for removing EGOs (something like: warm engine, turn EGO 1/4 turn, spray on penetrant and go away for 24 hours before turning again).

All well and good... until you try to clean galled/welded threads out of that weld-hardened bung. How many modified splugs do you want to wear out in the process? Mine was a (minor) bear to clean out even with the chaser. Me, I am in to "lazy" when I can.

... or $5-10 for a proper hardened-steel chaser... bought mine at NAPA

IIRC (from 6 years ago ) it is the same thread as the spark plugs. I used a common dual ended sparkplug tap/chaser... 18mm/14mm?

What constitutes "interesting discoloration"? If it is blued (usually darker blue, with some difference in hue near the edges), kind of streaky and (usually) with some skips between patches of discoloration, then the flywheel material has been locally overheated and has developed "hard spots". Considereing the cost of the clutch set and the effort needed to get at the clutch/flywheel, I would have the flywheel resurfaced. I can't remember what the recommendation on the Baord is for seal setting, but I have set them until they seat. (If there is significant wear on the crank seal surface, you may want to set the seal so the lip doesn't ride in the crank's wear-groove.)

What Snowman said, plus... the EJs don't have a distributor, so the ECU REALLY controls the spark on EJs.

Most of the propane conversions (at least last-Millenium) used a "mixer" that was added to the existing carburetor/intake manifold. IIRC, typically air-cleaner mounted to mixer, hose from mixer to carburetor air-horn (replacing its air cleaner). The mixer added gaseous propane to the air stream based on airflow through the mixer; not quite "srpaying it in, but not much more complex. Link to a thread on carburetion and adding a disty: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35174&highlight=escort+distributor

Well, isn't that timing sprocket part of the experimental "variable timing" design? On a serious note, I am glad that you are relatively unharmed. From your pictures, it looks like your sube did exactly what it was supposed to do in an accident: Sacrifice itself and its structure to protect its occupants.

You make me feel guilty (almost:grin: ) for living at the opposite end of the contiguous US. I have a yard overflowing with project cars, and half of them were free. Ever thought of relocating (with your Datsun parts stash, of course:brow:)?

I think, based on rest of post, just a less-than-thought-out choice of words. That is how I would try to take it. On Topic: Procedure is pretty much the same as your '83. The spindle can be a little stubborn. Just be careful and don't FUBAR the spindle threads.

Pretty sure the bolt is left-hand thread, plus it has a flange like a "duplex" nail, so good luck finding a generic replacement. (Except on another Japanese car.) OT: Sorry for not checking yet. I have had a BAD work week, and have done little other than work and (not) sleep. This is the first that I have sat at home since Sunday.

I am not close enough to offer physical help, but... Replacing the half-shaft does not require a press or anything more than somewhat normal hand tools. the CV stub is a tight slide fit into the bearings, not an interference- or press-it. You carefully tap out the old axle, typically by using a soft-faced dead-bolw hammer or a hammer and block of wood against the axle nut end. With a little ingenuity, you can pull the stub axle back through using the nut, washers, and maybe a large crescent wrench or wo (used as spacers/pry bars). Others have their own special ways, but all will tell you know press is needed. The one thing to watch for is that there is a free-floating steel spacer collar between the inner and outer bearings that needs to be positioned "just so" for the stub to be pulled back in. That, and getting the dished washer in the right direction and tightening the axlenut to at least 140ft-lbs.

Sadly, one-tenth of that damage would cause most insurance companies to "total" your car. 3 yrs ago, our 87 Turbo-wagon, got the tops of its fenders creased and its hood damaged. "Total"ed... and insurance settled for around $850 on a rust-free good condition vehicle. I am sorry for your loss.

I've had a new timing belt shred within 3k miles, and I've had tensioner bolts back out and let the tensioner slip. Any failure in the high-tension circuits could cause troubles.

Just to make sure that we are talking about the same part, you snapped the part that goes from the steering rack to the suspension knuckle... right?

Jim, I didn't get around to looking through my spares this weekend. I subluxated (partially dislocated) a knee, which made getting around uncomfortable. (Especially since I had to coach a soccer game and chaperone a dance.) Hopefully, I will get a chance to look Wednesday.

I was not making fun of your age (I was 16 once... or twice! ). I was making fun of your choice of words. Even if you were twice your age I probably first used belt dressing when you would have been regularly using those words. As I will not make fun of your age (you actually sound pretty mature for your time on earth), do not totally discount the experiences of those that have had more than 1.3 billion more heartbeats then you. Even oldfarts absorb useful information. Belt dressing can save a belt that has gotten glazed by misadjustment. Why throw away a perfectly good belt that has accidently gotten glazed? In 86subaru's case, he needs a little extra belt grip to temporarily make up for having only half of the drive surface.

Having forgotten my pin-punch recently on a JY trip (kicked myself pretty hard, too!!!), I appreciate the tip.

There were 2 different sized flyheel/clutch disks for the EA81... IIRC, one was around 8" diameter and the other is 8-7/8ths. 4WD (and some later models???) got the larger clutch disk.

OT, minor hijack: The 4-banger does have a crossflow head, and I even think a DOHC was available... but I suspect that I am "trying to teach my grandma how to suck eggs"... you are more current on such than am I. I haven't tried a 'trapp on my 510, but it does work really well on my 400F... except the -4 has an early version, the one with the single hook-bolt that holds on the end cap. The -4's exhaust is hot enough to cause it to stretch and loosen. Has a lovely sound at idle, though.

Get over it. Belt dressing is not bad, and it is certainly better than being stranded in BFE with a glazed, fried belt. Hmmm...come to think of it, I first used it when you were probably using those words regularly!!!

Are you referring to when you aligned for the t-belt? T-belt alignment is relative to t-belt alignment marks... may or may not have anything to do with TDC or BDC. The marked points are often selected to coincide with when no valves are being held open, allowing the cam to not be under tension while trying to align the marks and belt.

My first impression is +1 for clutch dust.