NorthWet

Also on some non-GL-10s. I have seen one well-equipped GL that had the FT4WD diff-lock box... It looked like a GL-10 in all but its badging.

If the engine is at TDC, and if the cyl#1's valves are fully closed (rockers/followers are a little loose), then you are at TDC between the compression and power strokes for cylinder#1. The rotor should be pointing towards cyl#1's wire. Engine should not run with ignition 180 degrees out. Adjustment range is not great enough to compensate for being that far off. You would need to remove the distributor and insert it correctly... or swap the plug wires to match.

Common practice to add a little ATF to engine oil (usually for its detergent properties). May not be the best thing to do for an engine, but will not kill it. Hadn't heard about using it relative to condensation, but probably, again, is suggested for its detergent action rather than for moisture removal per se.

Ding!!! Ding!!! Ding!!! We have a winner, Ipso facto!!! BTW, this is theoretical/static CR, and can vary greatly from actual/effective CR (which can be affected by valve timing, et al).

Very thoughtful!!! :clap:

SPFI: Left strut area. MPFI/Turbo: In the cabin, near the ECU on US models. XT/Vortex: Somewhere else (trunk/boot with ECU???)

As was said regarding us and Great Britain..."Two countries separated by a common language." I try to be sensitive to the USA not REALLY being the center of the known universe, and that words and physicality ("driver's side") are not the same to all. But then, my first car was a Triumph, and its manuals were all British. My second car was a Datsun (Nissan), and its manual was a British translation from the Japanese.

Agreed, again to a point : Much of the "standard" valve arrangement and cam timing tricks can and have been done with pushrods. "Hemi"s are pretty simple with pushrods. Honda MC did a 4-valve/pentroof chamber in the 80's with pushrods (11K redline, IIRC). Almost anything can be done if desired; just most of the truly exotic stuff only benefits a tightly spun up engine where airflow becomes hyper-critical. (What was it... the Honda NSX bike engine that had 8-valves per cylinder and oval pistons, redline around 22k? And that was at least 10 years ago...) IMHO, though, the truly best thing is a no-cam design, that uses electronically controlled hydraulic or pneumatic valve actuators; total control...

In the USA, an "harmonic balancer" means something different, typically a special front pulley. On our V8s, it is typically used where the crankshaft does not provide proper internal balancing (does not have crankthrow counterweights, or they are insufficient).

+1. Functionally identical block, assuming equivalently modified head design, equivalent intake and exhaust design, and equivalent max RPM... roughly similar power. The theoretical advantage that overhead cams give is better valve timing accuracy at high engine speeds; the EA81's pushrods are short enough, and the rocker arms and shafts are well enough designed, that this advantage evaporates in the real world (RAM's EA81s are rated to around 9krpm). Why have the complexity of OHC and the additional failure points of timing belts when nothing is to be gained from it?

+1

Burning a L/Hr would foul the plugs so quickly you would probably not make your first takeoff. Even being generous with conversions, that is a quart per 80 miles for us US ground-crawlers. A quart every 800 miles is usually considered excessive consumption. 10 times that is outrageous. I am still thinking oil tank/case breather system. Where does the tank vent? possibly near the exhaust stack? Is there any sort of "road draft tube" that vents either the case itself or the tank system? What does the oily residue on the plane's underside look like? Relatively clean oil or sooty residue? (Probably not easy to tell on an airframe...)

The gearbox is always engaged in FWD: The pinion is driven directly by the gearsets, The rear output shaft can be selectively decoupled from the countershaft/front pinion. If you are not getting driving power in FWD, then (unless there is catastrophic damage in the front diff area) either a front hub's splines are stripped (VERY common) or a DOJ or CV is stripped. Have a brave soul look at the front axles from the engine compartment while you try to make it move in FWD.

Sounds like a stripped axle joint or hubspline. How did it "blow" the axle, has it been repaired, and how? It won't move in 2WD because one front tranny stub is turning without its wheel getting the power.

What do the plugs look like? 1L/Hr is so excessive that the engine should be having other issues, like detonation and hideously fouled plugs. It would also leave enough oil smoke that people would think that you were skywriting? I am guessing that you are pushing oil out a breather or out a seal, and any burned oil is relatively minor. The puff on throttle-up following tickover indicates valve seals, unless the smoke continues during the throttle up period. (A little hard to tell while "driving"...) If you used chrome-faced rings, it could take 500-1000 miles (100-200 hours???) to fully seat, assuming that the cylinders were honed for chrome faces (rougher finish). Anyways, I would inspect the breather system, and, cowling permitting, check seal areas for blown seals (caused by improper seal-fitment or excessive case pressure due to breather issues).

Any recommendations on where to get Magnecor? None of the local consumer auto parts outlets have heard of them.

7PSI at 70degreesF is different massflow than 7PSI at 350degreesF. The difference here is the efficiency of the compressor at the massflow. If the compressor isn't efficient, what it mostly does is heat the air it is compressing, causing its pressure to increase without an increase in flow. Darn gas laws!!!

Glad you found what you wanted. No problem with me helping with a search... If I had a problem, I wouldn't have responded.

I this the thread? (I just searched on screenname "shadyirishmen" in all forums): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36354

BTW, about 15 years ago my brother had to get rebuilt magnetos when his Comanche failed Annual Inspection... cost around $4500 for the pair. And they still failed the Annual. Once all was said and done, he had to sell the plane just to pay for the "repairs". $15K is cheap in the aircraft world.

I recently dealt with this problem on a 90 legacy and I am pretty sure that the basics are the same. There is a link rod running from the lock cylinder down to the lock mechanism and switch, and another rod running from the interior door handle to the mechanism/switch. The door handle's rod is probably bent a little wrong, so that it can activate the locking mechanism but not the switch contacts.

I personally would be careful about putting much stock in what Haynes manuals say (hmmph...t-belt installations...hmmph), though I do dislike Chilton's more. FelPro packs UltraBlack for this purpose, so I imagine that it all comes back to being careful with application.

89 FSM (and I believe 85 FSM, but it is not in front of me) specifies Threebond 1215, which I have been told is equivalent to Permatex Anaerobic Sealant.

I think that it is interesting that for all that money they did not include dual ignition, a standard on production aircraft engines. It does have EDIS, which maybe is a strong reason to go to dual ignition.

And don't make the common mistake of aligning both cams with their alignment marks up at the same time... the cams are supposed to have their marks phased 180 degrees apart.