NorthWet

Both idiot light sender and oil pressure sender are screwed into the oil pump. Idiot sender is small, like a water temp sender, and the pressure sender is a larger can (2" in diameter, 2" long?). IIRC, they use different ports in the pump casting.

+1 The t-stat could be stuck... I would replace it just to be sure. Radiator can be checked by feeling the cooling fins, moving hands top to bottom (or vice versa) feeling for bands of different temperatures. A new radiator costs less than blowing and replacing HGs...

Stock O2 sensor is the same thread as stock spark plugs (you can use a spark plug thread-chaser/tap in the O2 bung). The mufflers are highly subjective, depends on if you want noise and the sendation of power that the noise gives you. I like quiet, so I would go with a large volume units, with the last one having multiple smaller outlets/tailpipes. The SPFI should compensate, and no engine part likes backpressure. You might see some gains with this configuration, but I wouldn't expect any serious advantages over a system with a decent 3-way catcon.

All of my non-XTs (85-90, na and T) have the same style PS pump. Reservoir directly over the pump, dual-pulley sheaves, same length inlet/outlets. My 89 XT has a different pump, reservoir sits side-saddle to the pump (biased to passenger-side), so chassis lines are shorter. Standard XT pump is ribbed-belt.

Glad it was something simple. I'm glad that *I* have never done anything like that.

Yes, that little bottom cover plate can get bent up enough to contact the starter-ring and/or other rotating parts... makes an heck of a screech!!! Easy enough to check through the timing hole if all 4 flex-plate bolts are still in place. Bellhousings are the same. OK, Paul, forgive the dumb question but it needs to be asked: You did install the torque-converter properly on the tranny before you bolted engine and tranny together? If not....ooooh, bad things!!!

EA82 head bolts are reusable; they are not torque-to-yield. Regarding head gaskets, by "where" do you mean dealer-vs-auto parts store, or brand? Consensus seems to be either dealer/OEM or FELPRO. NAPA-branded seems to get panned often, and almost everyone offering an opinion swears by dealer intake and exhaust gaskets (others being inferior design/construction and failure-prone). I would go with the gasket set, as there are SO many little gaskets involved. Also, there is an oil passage gaket ("o-ring") between the head and cam-carrier that needs to be the dealer-style metal-reinforced o-ring rather than a standard rubber o-ring.

T-belts will never be as reliable as a proper gear or chain drive. T-belts are cheap to manufacture and somewhat lighter; they are not used because they are better. An aircraft engine is only as reliable as its weakest part(s). T-belts can fail at any time, even right out of the box. No place to pull over when your wheels are tucked in their wells...

10kfeet... maybe 30:1 glide slope (VERY optomistic)... 80knots... 30-40 minutes to replace snapped t-belt so that you can do the restart... Earth gets a new crater!!!

Do you only notice the smell when the car is not moving or is moving slowly? It could be oil seepage finding its way (as it always seems to do) onto the exhaust and the resulting smoke finding its way into the ventilation system. Higher speeds mean more air flow to blow away the smoke/smell. Another possibility is that the PCV system is damaged and venting where the ventilation system can pick it up.

Ed, I am pretty sure that the individual plug boxes do not say -11, that it is only on the 4-pack. CSK lists the "...S-11" as needing gapping, whereas the "...Y-11" is pregapped. CSK site, though, so grain of salt or two. Daeron, some things do come with walking the earth a while : I have been using NGKs since the early 70's. My Hondas (2-wheelers) used "D" series (cute little plugs), learned about heat ranges tuning a Triumph (4-wheeler). Tried Champion when they tried to copy the "copper-core" (plugs lasted 2k in my dime before insulator broke down). Tried Bosch Platinums... they lasted about 3k before the center electrode eroded to the insulator. I'm not much of a parts-snob, but NGK and NDs are the only plugs that I think are worth my messing with.

Same plug, except the BPR6EY uses a v-groove in the side electrode. No real biggie either way. What you want is for the "BPR6E" portion to be there: The "B" is the spark plug thread diameter, the "P" is the projected tip, The "R" is resistor, and the "6" is the heat range. (I can't remember what the "E" stands for... want to say "extended electrode" but that doesn't make much sense witht the "P" designation.) The "S" is standard electrodes, the "Y" is for v-groove; "IX" for iridium IX electrode, "GP" for "G-Power" (???) platinum electrode. The "-11" is just the multi-plug packaging.

The following 4EAT/TCU info is specifically for the Legacy, but may be pertinent for the EA82(t): The TCU uses at least 3 ECU-related signals, plus a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) signal from the speedometer. The 3 signals are for TPS, engine revolution signal, and atmospheric sensor. The atmospheric sensor is listed as only applicable to non-turbo models. Further reading on the atmospheric sensor (Legacy related): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61194&highlight=atmospheric+sensor

It isn't a MAP sensor. It is an atmospheric pressure sensor, apparently used to measure altitude for minor adjustments (I think the TCU uses it to adjust shift points); this is supposed to be integral to the ECU. IIRC, the signal is a simple high/low indication, so might be easily spoofed.

Disclaimer: I have NO practical experience in wiring/rewiring the 4EAT. So... The 4EAT's TCU uses at least one ECU signal, the atmospheric pressure sensor that is built in to the MPFI's ECU. I do not know if this signal exists in the SPFI's ECU. GD, regarding gearing: The 4EAT is geared for about 2200-2500 rpm at 60-65, approx 1000rpm lower than the 5-speed or 3AT. That big of a reduction is hard for the manual to beat.

At idle, you should not see any fuel coming out of the primary discharge tube (in the middle of the auxiliary venturi); the idle circuit discharges at the edge of the throttle plate. If you see fuel droplets at the primary or secondary discharge tubes at normal idle (<1krpm) then the float level is probably too high (or the float valve is sealing properly).

Two alternate suggestions: 1) Put another turbo motor in it. Bottom ends are pretty sturdy providing the oil keeps flowing. 2) Swap MPFI heads onto the SPFI block and don't install the turbo onto the block. This will effectively give you the hi-comp NA MPFI. The 4EAT has its quirks, but it will give better highway fuel ecomomy than the D/R 5-speed...

USA-specification turbo-wagons came stock with 185/70-13. I prefer the wider tire (Michelin or Bridgestone on mine). The wider tire can give better cornering traction. The wider tires fit just fine with no concerns about body interference. I suspect that our friend in Israel does not have to contend with much snow, and mud may be a little uncommon, too.

Does your 82 have a feedback carb? (Does it have an O2 sensor and an ECU?) If so, O2 or feedback ciruitry (electrical/vaccum) may have a problem.

Yes, my guess is that the ignition switch has gone bad. If you take off some of the trim covers underneath the steering column, you should be able to access the ignition switch connector. If you disconnect this connector the engine should stop. I would imagine the 87 switch would work, but swapping the key portion (as opposed to the electrical portion) is a minor pain due to the anti-theft snap-off bolts that they use to mount the switch housing.

I think that you guys are too hard on Hitachi, one of the foremost engineering and production companies in the world; I would take them over Bosch any day. AND... ...I also think that you are placing too much complexity in the ECU. It was designed during, and using components from, a relatively primative era in electronics, processors and support parts. I doubt that there is any provision in these early ECUs for anything more than simple on/off monitoring (using a simple voltage comparator); almost certainly not an ADC circuit needed to properly monitor whether it had activated normally. I am mildly surprised that the 10W resistor is warming up. Power dissipation should be around 3 watts. My surprise isn't so much that 3 watts would raise the temp noticably, but that the little plastic package of the original would be subjected to that much warming. Is it possible that we are misjudging what is needed for the solenoid's fake-out? Is it possible that the ECU is basing the solenoid's functioning off of an inductive EMF "buck"? Admittedly, this would not explain why the code is happening with assumed-working solenoids. Sorry for rambling... sleep deprived. :-\

8-9 quarts? It usually takes more work than that to drain the TC. Did you remove the cooler crossover pipe when your removed the filter?

Ummm...

Like he said, check the stored ECU code(s). Crystal-ball WAG: Coolant ThermoSensor (CTS) connection/wiring is poor/corroded.

Fuel pump only pumps when the engine is running, or for about 5 seconds after ignition is turned on. Engine not running, no pressure. Not sure of your model year, but earlier models could be put into a diagnostic mode that would cause the pump to cycle off and on.