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NorthWet

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Everything posted by NorthWet

  1. NorthWet
    And, since this was a used carb, which model is it? More specifically, is the secondary opened mechanically or is it it vacuum-operated (as in the vast majority of street applications for this style of Weber)?
  2. NorthWet
    Jetting should not have such a dramatic effect, unless you go wildly one side or the other.
  3. NorthWet
    +1 on the fuel filter (is the one in the engine compartment really just a vapor separator, like in the carb'd EA82s?) A lesser possibility is that your secondary isn't opening.
  4. NorthWet
    Have you checked the ignition timing yet? Don't look for exotic causes until the basics are known right. If you don't have a timing light, and if your body doesn't or he is unavailable, quite often parts stores will "loan" tools (like timing lights) to their customers. (The "loan" usually takes the form of them selling you their loaner tool and you returning it within a timing period, like 48-72 hours.) Ignition timing is important, and easily gotten wrong by someone not familiar with Subarus or computer-controlled ignition. It would also be nice to verify that the timing-belts are timed properly. This is a bit of a pain, since you need to remove the belt covers on the heads: This is sometimes made a problem because the bolts that hold them on tend to seize in the brass nut-inserts in the plastic back cover, causing the insert to spin when you turn the bolts. BTW, did you find your scissors jack under the cargo area?
  5. NorthWet
    Did your wagon not come with a jack? There are 3 storage areas under the carpet in the back of the wagon: One behind each rear wheel, and one across the back just inside of the hatch. The jack, handle, lug-wrench and tool-kit bag should be tucked into one of them. The jack is to be placed on the body's rocker-panel seam where there are semi-circular cutouts (one behind the front wheel, and one ahead of the rear wheel).
  6. NorthWet
    Not too many people are going to know, as stock-type bushings are not available: The whole control arm is replaced. I did a SEARCH on Superpro bushings (as this has been discussed before) and found these threads that will probably give you the info you want: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/75625-wtb-poly-bushings-for-ea82-superpro/?hl=%2Bsuperpro+%2Bbushings (post#13) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/28910-superpro-bushings-for-leoneloyaleea81ea82/page-2?do=findComment&comment=506160
  7. NorthWet
    Gas mileage is really not related to FWD/4WD in these Subarus. The big mileage hit is in the extra weight. So... to straighten things out a bit, your transmission/transfer-case is still in 4WD, and the sensor is reporting this. But, since you have no driveline to the rear wheels, being stuck in 4WD is not an issue. You should still crawl under the passenger side of the car and find where the 4WD engagement cable attaches to its tranny-lever, and see if you can move that lever.
  8. NorthWet
    The driveline does not need to go on to do any testing. At this point, there is no binding force on the drivetrain. It sounds like your friend just removed the back part of the 2-piece driveline, so the car can be driven that way.
  9. NorthWet
    There is a VSS within the speedometer head.
  10. NorthWet
    That little tube is a vent tube to allow air to escape from the top of the engine's coolant jackets. The tube connects to a little hose that goes up to the thermostat housing. Although it would make doing a proper coolant fill difficult/impossible if it were in fact plugged, it is unlikely to be involved in any of the problems. Lots of speculation going on. It would be nice to find out if the engine actually seized (ring/bearing surfaces stuck together) or if the engine merely inhaled liquid that it could not compress. Was the engine actually running when it stopped, or did they shut off the engine and then couldn't get it to crank? There is a gasket on the carb-to-manifold surface that also has coolant against it. If this gasket had a problem, or if they used the wrong gasket, you could get coolant ingestion from there.
  11. NorthWet
    "Typically", there is about 2 gallons left in the tank when it is on E, and it is supposed to have a low fuel warning light that should come on when it gets to this point. (On my DD, the gauge and warning light are no longer reliable. It starts having problems on anything other than straight and level driving when below 3 gallons.) Regarding the fuel pump, try doing a SEARCH on "ford fuel pump" or some variation. There has been discussion pretty recently about it. They came on many large Ford cars and trucks in the 90's. It is not an exact fit, but it has comparable specs and is cheap and available. Oh, and the wheel bearings are pretty big and sturdy, They are unlikely to do anything dramatic or damage anything. Usual reason for failure is failed grease seals. All in all, noise from brake-pad wear-tabs or noise from an axle loose in the hub is more likely.
  12. NorthWet
    The responder was implying that the MAFs on your model is self-cleaning. (It has a burn-off cycle, but I do not know if this means it doesn't need cleaning. Regarding fuel pumps, there are tons of used ones available, they are pretty reliable, and there are also alternatives from other makes (most frequently cited is a common Ford pump that is around US$50 new). Do you know that you have more than a 2-3 gallons of fuel in the tank? (Thinking tank surge.)
  13. NorthWet
    If it were the ignitor overheating, I would not expect a simple jumpstart to get things working. A bad ground at the ignitor is another possibility.
  14. NorthWet
    The transmission lever for engaging 4WD is near the back end of the transmission and fairly high up. I do not think that it is reachable from the engine bay. Removing the driveline would have removed any binding force on the transmission. Please follow MilesFox's suggestions. Brake shops, for liability reasons as much as wanting to make money, will often offer only a complete (expensive) service as Miles mentioned. Replacing the front brake pads (if that is what is needed) is pretty simple. There are a couple of quirks associated with the front emergency brake, but they are straightforward. IIRC, all that is needed to access the pads is to remove the wheel, use a 14mm (9/16") box-end wrench or socket to remove one bolt, and the caliper swings free of the pads. If you go this route, ASK about the quirks (turning in the brake piston and proper rotational position of the piston to accept the pad). Your car is pretty simple to work on, parts are generally easy to get at and work on, and the engine will last forever if decently maintained. It does, however, have quirks. (Have you discovered the "virgin switch" yet?)
  15. NorthWet
    Ok, I think we might need some better explanation regarding the 4WD. The system works by an electric button in the shifter, and this actuates/deactuates a pair of vacuum solenoids (I think they are located near the spare tire/top-of-tranny-tunnel). A pair of vacuum hoses go back to a double-acting diaphragm that pushes and pulls on the lever on the tranny. So, your buddy says that this lever will not budge (with wheels, front or rear, off of the ground)? (The 4WD system is designed for low-traction conditions only, as it does not have a center differential: Front and rear wheels are locked together. The sytsem gets bound-up on pavement, making disengagement very difficult unless you can cause a wheel to slip and release the bind.) Noise at the front could be lots of things, but common things are worn pads (it will be more of a scree-ing noise), front axle nut not properly torqued-down (common after an axle or bearing replacement), or it could be bearings. Check the first 2 before assuming bearings. Power/backfiring issues: Is the "backfiring" in the exhaust or intake? Any idea of what work was done on the car recently? First thing to check is to see if someone connected the 2 green, single-wire connectors next to the windshield-wiper motor. These should NOT be connected for normal use; only when doing diagnostics or setting the ignition timing. If they are connected, the computer locks the ignition timing at a static setting (20deg???) If you have a timing light, check the timing (green connectors hooked up, timing marks are viewed through a rubber-plug covered opening on the top side of the bellhousing). Other possibilities are leaky intake gaskets (diagnosable by spraying carb cleaner around the intake-to-head junctions and listening for engine speed-up) or timing-belts improperly installed (VERY common on craigslist cars).
  16. NorthWet
    Generally speaking, rattles like that are heat shields that are loose.
  17. NorthWet
    Much of this talk about numbers is not terribly useful, as they are not necessarily measured the same way. In the US, our "octane" numbers are calculated differently then most other places. (US ratings are typically 3 points lower than the ratings in other countries.) Likewise, power rating numbers are not necessarily comparable. 50 years ago, during our "muscle car" era in the US, the ratings were given in SAE Gross HP, but that fell out of favor a few years later and was replaced with SAE Net HP, which was often 20-30% less than the Gross rating. KWH to Hp conversions, there are different conversion factors depending on what standard is used. All this adds up to trying to compare apples and oranges. Contrary to the previous poster, there are not just 2 "octane" grades. There is whatever the refiner chooses to produce (within the bounds of chemistry and physics). And "octane" doesn't mean power or energy, just the fuel's resistance to decomposition under heat and pressure into molecules that have a lower spontaneous ignition temperature. Higher "octane rating" fuel tends to burn slower, necessitating greater ignition advance in order to get the most power out of it.
  18. NorthWet
    If jump starting helps, I would suggest removing and cleaning the battery cable connections. Do not overlook the ground cable connection at the starting motor mount, and the small ground cables going to the chassis from the battery area. Don't just check them, clean them.
  19. NorthWet
    Learned at the School of Hard Knocks (no brains required). Stupid little screw...
  20. NorthWet
    There are also valve timing variations with the turbo cams, but nothing major. And the mere fact that all of these heads (within the dual-port/single-port distinction) and cams and cam cases are mix-and-match illustrates that there are no significant differences. We are getting way off topic with these flights-of-fancy. Outside of the fine folks at Delta Cams, there is no performance aftermarket for these engines, and no fancy performance parts from Subaru. You have a choice of stock compression ratios, single-port or dual-port heads. With the dual-port heads you can get a pretty-looking but problematic "spider" intake manifold. You can turbocharge it, but it really is not capable of handling this without luck or significant modifications. And if your car is carbureted then going SPFI might be the best thing that you can do for it. If that isn't enough, and money is TRULY no object, look to aeronautical companies such as RAM Engines: They build Subaru engines for aircraft use, and at least used to sell components. Their prices are commensurate with their target market.
  21. NorthWet
    Most common causes for an EA82 quitting while running is a broken timing belt and a backed-out set screw on the distributor rotor. A less common fault is fuel pump failure. The CEL codes from a non-running engine are not terribly useful. Mostly what they tell you is that the engine is not running. If you feel that it is not getting fuel, try some starter fluid and see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't, the move on as it is not fuel related. As mentioned before, check the distributor rotor. If that seems ok, check both timing belts. If the distributor side belt has issues, then the rotor won't turn (though you say you have spark), or the rotor is pointing at the wrong tower on the cap due to tooth skippage. If the other t-belt has an issue, then the engine will usually sound like it wants to start, may actually catch and stumble for a few seconds, but will not idle. My guess is that, since you had a recent reseal, a belt tensioner has come loose (allowing tooth skippage), or a belt failed.
  22. NorthWet
    "Better off" is a subjective term open to all sorts of interpretations. It is probably less expensive to go with a straight pipe... unless your car is still subject to inspection. Then it can get costly. In my opinion, there is no performance to be gained from deleting the cat, especially a new one. Is your current cat physically screwed up?
  23. NorthWet
    The engines are already pretty well balanced for their intended use. Probably nothing to gain unless a person wants to spin the engine faster, and without doing something about flow that is a dead avenue. LOTS of SPFI EA82s over here, especially on our West Coast. I think that SC can work, just have to deal with the nature of it.
  24. NorthWet
    Year, body-type, etc would be useful. The easiest way (for me) to inactivate it is to disconnect the connectors from the controller. I think the Legacy sedans have the controller mounted in the trunk roughly underneath the rear glass. (That is where it is on the SVX, and I seem to recall the same location on the Legacy.)
  25. NorthWet
    If yours is an SPFI, this is a known issue with the PCV system. I believe that there is an official mod for this.
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