NorthWet

Not meaning to speak for Caboobaroo, but I believe he means for you to clamp off the soft (rubber) line with a pair of locking pliers ("ViseGrips"/et al). Did this locking issue just start, or has it been an ongoing issue? If it just started, examine what has been done previous to it starting. did it just appear one day, or did it gradually develop? (Given we are talking hard braking lockup, some of this may be ambiguous unless you regularly do screeching halts.) You mention new(ish) front pads. Two things pop out in my mind: 1) The calipers pistons were not oriented properly to take the pins on the back of the pads (unlikely cause of this problem) 2) The caliper pistons have not self-adjusted, leaving excessive clearance between pad and rotor. The clearance might not be taken up smoothly/evenly during hard braking, causing one side to grab. (This might also be caused by a warped rotor causing pad "knock-back".)

I have 2-row which I believe I got from Radiator Barn, but 1-2 years ago. BTW, a copper core will be much more efficient (2x+) at cooling than an aluminum core. And the aluminum cores have a nasty habit of developing a thermal-insulating oxide coating as they age. Aluminum is used for 4 reasons: 1) It is cheaper 2) It is lighter than copper (OEM reason) 3) "Tuners" think it is "cool" and "racy" (Tuner reason) 4) It is cheaper 4a) It is cheaper

Thanks Ed.

I understand that you want to use what you have, but you may be happier going with something like a Nissan V6 and RWD tranny. Common, lighter weight tranny, more performance parts. The fact that you are planning on going non-suby on other driveline parts says that you are not adverse to using non-suby. Regarding performance parts, there are ECU "chips" available to help a little, and reground cams, and a supercharger kit. Otherwise, not a lot of support for the engine and it is already fairly well tuned. So, my suggestion is to go Nissan, ... and then give me your EG33...

More specifically, the moustache bar bolts to the back cover of the diff with 2 nuts/studs (IIRC), and to the chassis using a large insulator bushing on each side of the diff. Don't have any good suggestions on the rust, cuz we don't get that much here. We just have to scrape off the moss and slugs...

My first burn-out was that same-numbered Bosch, and apparently there aren't any of them on this coast of the US. (Originally, I was kind of hoping to find someone that had the receipt for an AL4328X that I could "borrow" for a warranty replacement, but now that I know it was my problem that it failed and not a bad rebuild that idea is dustbinned.)

His aren't the USA's "LS-L" version of the seats: They aren't leather and they are manually adjusted instead of electric. Not as super-comfy as the leather seats, but still pretty nice.

Ed, it looks like the Legacy/Impreza alternators, somewhere after 93 and probably after 95-96, are interchangeable with the SVX. They are a Mitsubishi-design rather than an Hitachi, and different from any of the old-gen alts. I found a thread on the SVX site that talks about an inexpensive supplier of rectifiers and regulators for this alternator (around $50 for the pair), so if I can find a distributor that will work with me I may go that route. The BIG problem is that the alt on my wife's SVX died, so I swapped in the alt from my project SVX... and it blew out about 3 weeks later. I had acquired a 3rd SVX in the meantime (for $250 I couldn't pass it up ), so I swapped in THAT alt and it died within a day. No dummy me, I thought, "Hmmmm...", and then checked the battery, which after 3 days of trickle charging showed 6.54V. (In my lame defense, the car always started with the first turn of the key except after driving 30 minutes at night with my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree.) I have since replaced the battery, but am left with 3 dead, and uncommon, alternators. Finding a more common replacement would make my life easier x3.

Bump

Thanks, OB99W. A smidgen OT , but definitely worthwhile info for me. I will consider that 160amp. I know they are available for Nissan versions of the alt, but the Nissan versions have their backframes "clocked" inconveniently. So,... 99 Outback - definite prospect Anyone else willing to take a look?

As mentioned, the FPR works by bleeding off flow (and thus pressure) from the injector rails. If it is fubar, it will bleed off so much flow that you will have little if any pressure/flow to the injectors. (Conversely, if its screen is blocked or the return line is blocked/kinked pressure can go to max, the mixture will go rich (probably uncontrollably so), and the "deadheaded" pump will suffer.) Do you have an injector pressure tester? (Simple pressure gauge that "T"s into fuel line near filter.) This could tell you if you are pressurizing your injector rails, and help decide if the FRP is the issue. Another thought (which may have been covered in your gas thread) regards fuel pump power. Ignition turn-on cycles the fuel pump for a couple of seconds and then shuts it off until ECU says it is getting proper pulse rate from distributor. Is the pump just coming on for that initial cycle and then staying off? If not, or don't know, connect the green DIAG/ECU connectors and the pump should go into an on/off cycle insuring that it will be working some of the time... (Sorry, Gary. You probably know this, but we all forget little things at odd moments so I thought that I should mention it. )

SVX is a 95-110 amp part.

Front and back views, with alternator in mounted position:

The mounting is essentially the same as on my 92 Leg, with double-eared through-bolt at 2oclock and single eared bolt at 8oclock, output bolt sticking nearly straight up. The only significant difference between this alternator and the one on my Leg is that connector/rectifier design. Regarding amp output, if you buy a rebuilt it is a crap shoot anyway. Rebuilders tend to mix and match parts from a particular alternator "line", and most of this era's alternators are 95-100amp. Though a 140-160 amp would be nicer on a power-everything car like the SVX. My intention is to go to the parts store and look at what they have. But it would be nice to be able to narrow my search to a certain range instead of asking them to look up and bring me everything they might have in stock. And speaking of stock, although I live in near-Nirvana for Subarus, parts can still be a problem: Nearest rebuilt alt for the SVX is 10 days away... Thanks again.

I would like help in identifying which years and models of New Gen Subarus have alternators that match the connector plug shown below. This alternator came off of a 92 SVX, but I am pretty sure that the alternator style is far more generic, particularly in the 93-up Legs, Imps and Foresters. (This alternator is listed as being specific to the 92-96 SVXs, and is proving difficult to find replacements for it.) So if you could list your year and model, and whether or not it uses the same connector I would be most appreciative.

That would look SOOOO COOOOL under my Teal SVX!!!!

Depending on where you tap in, you really should use steel tubing. Copper should hold up to the heat itself, but the heat cycles combined with the vibration over time will probably cause the copper tubing to become brittle and crack. This embrittlement/cracking would be most pronounced at the exhaust port junction (highest heat...duh), and should diminish rapidly with distance as the tubing conducts/radiates the gas' heat. If you wanted to risk the dissimilar-metals issue (which you are already considering doing), you might run steel for a bit with whatever straight-tube and angled-fittings you might find, and then switch to copper for the really bent parts.

I checked them out early on, but they have no description of what is included in an overhaul kit. Judging by the list price, I would guess it is the same thing that my dealer was offering me, a single piston seal and dust boot. As far as rebuilt calipers, it bothers me to spend $60+ dollars to replace a perfectly functioning caliper (times 2) that just happens to have deteriorating dust boots; that, and the caliper is unlikely to come with the boots for the caliper slider. I have no leakage/seapage from these calipers (yet), but bad dust boots + 1-mile of dirt road is not a good combo. But still, my wider concern involves the unavailability of parts used on EVERY EA82-class car. There are literally thousands of these cars in my little burgh. The brake seals may be uber-reliable, but once the dust seals go what will keep these cars from being junked just because replaceing a couple dollar part becomes a major financial/time event? What other parts seem to be available but really are not? (I sound like I should end this post with, "Go tell Ducky Lucky and Henny Penny that the sky is falling!!!!" )

4EAT is 25-spline

Well, I tried ordering from RockAuto.com, and they politely notified me that the slider-pin boots were backordered from their supplier, and might be so for 1-2 months. Hmmm... (I have done little except work and sleep since the notice, so haven't followed up yet.) As far as Dealer prices, what is reasonable? My local dealer wanted to charge me 1000% of local aftermarket for the piston seal and dust boot. ($35-ish vs. $3.50)

I think that much could be done to deal with the headgasket issue by thinking about where they typically blow: All the ones that I have seen have blown between the cylinder's fire ring and the all-to-adjacent water jacket "eyebrow" passages. Typically, the HG just gets pushed sideways into the passage. I plan on trying collars (similar to headbolt collars) around the water (and maybe oil) passages. "Staking" the headgasket with small pins may also help. "O"-ringing the cylinders themselves probably wouldn't hurt. I also plan on collaring all of the head fasteners. The cooling system needs some real attention, and I was considering providing independent water feeds to both case halves; I believe that the only water passage between the two halves is a "transom" passage at the top of the block, so if water level is low or there is a trapped air bubble (need to make that small bypass at top of block bigger...) then waterflow is compromised. Lots of other thoughts, too, but need to do instead of talk. As far as "why bother with an EA82?" Well why bother with an EJ? Use and EG33 or EZ30... or a VG35 or a 350CID or whatever. No reason needed, jsut wnats he/she wants to do.

Beck/Arnley numbers show up in auto parts listings, but are unorderable by any of my local outlets. Same issue with Raybestos and Dorman.

While R&R'ing a front axle on my XT, I noticed that the brake caliper's piston dust seal was pretty shot. The caliper slide-mount boots were in very sad shape, too. No big deal, I think. Just pop on down to NAPA and get replacements. Well... NAPA had trouble finding listings, and any/all listings dead-ended at the part number. They could not order any for me. Ditto With CSK (Checker/Schucks/Kragen). Got some numbers from NAPA website and took those in to the store. Again, they could find the number but could not order directly; they had to call a distributor in Canada to check stock, etc. Distributor said that they had 11 left; no one was sure what the shipping charge would be. So, I decided to check with my local Subaru dealer... ...Dealer said that the caliper kit (piston seal and dust boot) were around $35 per side (gulp!); but that didn't matter because they were discontinued and he showed that none existed in the USA. According to him, my only option was to buy a new caliper (for some exorbinant amount); but again this price was almost moot as there were only 4 left in the USA!!!! I ended up ordering the parts from Rock Auto, but even these were not listed as stocked parts. I will see if they can get them for me. AFAIK, all of the EA82-series chassis use the same brake caliper, so we may be heading into some unavailable parts issues. Although I have yet to see any leaking or siezed Subaru calipers (or other Japanese calipers for that matter), the dust boots do deteriorate and need replacing. Any body else have problems finding "normal maintenance" parts?

Yes, you can "just slide it back in"... except that you need to make sure that both shafts engage inside the tranny AND in the torque converter. This can be tricky, and involves some manipulating, turning, and appropriate use of swear words. IIRC, what worked best for me was to seat the hollow shaft in the tranny first, and the inner shaft in the TC, slide them together and turn and jiggle until everything slipped in to place. You should be able to feel the splines align and the TC slip into place as EACH of the shafts seats (should feel 2 separate events). It is VERY important that when the tranny and engine are remated that the bell housings snug up flush to each other without ANY force. (I.E. - do NOT use bolts to force them together). If force seems needed, then the TC and shafts are not properly seated in the tranny, and force will cause terminal damage to the tranny.

EG33 mates up to Legacy-class transmissions. Any tranny that you can adapt an EJ22 engine to you can also adapt the EG33 (though they may not handle the torque).