mikaleda

Nice, that's what I thought, I wish I had tapped it while the engine was out. Oh well I'm not going through that again, I think I'll try tapping the transmission hole.

I am in the middle of swapping a 96 ej22 into my new project a 99 OBW MT that had the god awful 2.5D in it. Everything is going well, I luckily had an egr 2.2 manifold to install on my motor so I can do the egr fix, but I have ran into a minor problem. The 96 motor is a phase 1 block and the transmission is a phase 2 block. The phase 1 transmission housing had a stud for the lower starter mount, but the phase 2 has a bolt going into the engine block. Now that I have the ej22 in I can't bolt down the lower starter bolt, do I need to drill and tap the block or tap the transmission housing or will it be okay with one bolt holding it in?

Could be a dirty idle air control valve sticking slighty. If there is a hose disconnected it should be doing it all the time, but it still couldn't hurt to check for vacum leaks

You need to pull the seat and pull the panel off the door and see what is going on. If the latch is internaly broken, the latch will probably need to be drilled. It would probably be best to take this to a mechanic if you can't see an obvious problem when you pull the panel off.

Your right, it is possible... But I'm just saying let's not doom it just yet.

Still, he did test for hydrocarbons... That's a pretty diffinetive test for an internaly leaking head gasket on a subaru

Sounds like an after market T-stat or a failing T-stat. Buy a new OEM or Stant EXact stat or Napa has a premium T-stat made by Tama IIRC. If it doesn't cost $20+ bucks you are not getting the right thermostat. I believe my Tama brand T-stat cost $26

Here's the info on 95 exauhst https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=131585&cc=1269806&jnid=393&jpid=13

Edit: I had wrong year Part #31697 walker https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2993826&cc=1269873&jnid=397&jpid=11 Just reread 95 has a different part number Part# 31357 walker. That may be the problem 95 has a different size gasket so your flang is wrong for the 96 part #

I used to have the walker part # that fit these. I ran into this myself and had to actually measure everything and find the right donut gasket. They do make them, but your local parts store is not going to be able to find you the right one at least in my experiance.

+

Guess I was wrong, the engine was so greasy it just looked like they were going through the valve covers. I re did some reasherch and spark plugs going through the valve covers was only on phase 2 ej22s. My bad

No, but I can grab one. Its a legacy brigton 97 auto awd

Must not have been all 97 like that. The 97 my step dad has has plugs that go through the valve cover original engine

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52253

If your spark plugs go through the valve cover its interference if not its non-interference. I just so happened to look this up earlier since I just got given a 97 that had a 96 motor in it and I wanted to be sure. 96 was a single port head noninterference motor. Edit: on the ej22 motor only

Nice glad you found the problem, good job. Always good to have info like this on the forum to help others with their diagnosis.

There should be an adjustment at the clutch fork under the hood. If its a cable that is, I'm not sure of that year. If it is hydrolic there is no adjustment it probably needs to be bleed. If you aren't getting disengagement of the clutch a few inches above the floor adjustment is probably neccissary. I would start saving up for a new clutch though you are probably getting close to the end of the clutch life if your pedals that low.

If it wasnt engaging before you may be having issues with your duty c cylinoid

When you install the FWD fuse the FWD light should come on and you should be in Front Wheel Drive. this should stop torque bind, but it doesn't mean the problem is fixed.

I've torqued many of these on the ground, never had an issue. It shouldn't matter as long as you get it snug before you let the weight down on it. I was always told not to use and impact on these even to snug them up because it can cause deformation of the bearing.

I use timken and have never had complaints. I just bought a rear hub assembly for a 05 outback and it was about $140 without markup with my %10 discount. A good bearing will cost a lot but you won't have to worry again

I love my hankook w409 winter I pikes. Factory siping good clean out and very sticky. They seem to wear a bit fast if you run them as an all season, bit I love the performance I get out of them

knock sensors aren't quite as sensitive as 02 sensors, they have a lot less control of the engine. I've spliced them together before and had it work fine. Good 3m electrical tape helps a ton

Nice Ill have to try this on mine. I got lazy when painting my fenders and got some over spray on my windshield and door. Is it okay to use on glass? I will probably just try it out on a small peice where its not visable when driving and see