mikaleda

next things on the agenda would be new upgraded brakes, hopefully some body work and hopefully a nice paint job with a good under coating to help with rust. im planning on keeping her into 500k no matter how many times i may need to rebuild her.

okay I'm just waiting on photo bucket to load so i can start sharing pics of my ride so while i wait ill list the things i've done to her over the past three years. when i first got her i was so excited i had gotten it for a steal $950! a blue stick shift, i had thought i had won the lotto that day. that was until i started driving her and she started overheating on long trips, that was when i became acquainted with the way subarus blow head gaskets. unfortunately she sat for a couple of years before i could fix her, she had 211k miles on her. then about a year ago now my moms old 90 sedan that she just had put a new motor in took a dive and i ended up with it (it died at 327k) so i pulled the motor out and put it in mine. finally i had brought her back to life! with a new heart beat in her i took her out on a mudding adventure only to have a cv seize up on me so i replaced both front cvs and she did fine for a time, but of course by now i needed new tires so i had to break the bank and buy the best tires i could get for her. now she was handling right, almost of course my struts were really bad by now because of my road (i live on a road called mud gulch) so i had to put another $400 into her again now she is as good as new and i cant believe how much of a sleeper she is! this car is so much fun to drive, and it puts everyone to shame as i can beat them with a few hundred pounds of tools in the back. i love my bluebaroo and here is the only picture i have of here at the moment parked next to my sisters 2014 sitck shift

can you get live data on your 02 sensors with your scanner? if so you may be able to see what the o2 sensor signal is doing and could tell you a lot. if its staying high i would be saying its a bad sensor, if low i would go through and check all of your connections. i believe all but the IACV run off of the same connectors and i do believe those are the ones at the back of the motor.

Those all run off the same set of connectors in the harness I would check those connections.

Not ready to start this just yet I'm just making a place maker for my 90 I'll share a few pics in a bit, she's had a lot of work done to her

There are multiple ways to remove stripped nuts and bolts. It all depends on what you have at your disposal and your skill set is to determine what the best course of action is. I have had a lot of experience with remove stripped bolts with minimal tools and I have found that the best thing to do is to heat the nut somehow even by running the motor for a while if that's possible. Get some penetrant on it NOT WD40 but an actual penetrant. Finally get a good grip however you can, I've ground the sides down on a really messed up bolt so I could get a good grip. The most important thing to do is realize when you are out of your realm and when to ask for help from someone that knows what they are doing before it gets to bad. Lol just realized Gary was the o.p. glad you got it!

Alternator possibly, try disconnecting the main charge wire

You could try some wd40 and see if that helps but otherwise you'll be dealing with the shear head bolts. I've found taking the steering column loose from the dash helps gain access to these ignition bolts

The fronts arn't threaded and they should be regular bolts holding the caliper to the slide pin. I don't believe the rears are screw in either the older gen subarus were the ones that had the screw type calipers.

The only thing on an ej oil system I use rtv for is the oil pan. I've never messed with the oil pump on this motor, I'll try tightening the screws when I have the timing belt apart next

The bypass valves might have the wrong pressure limit as well on the larger filter and may put more stress on the oil pump when cold. I would say that you should run the specified filter for your car and just keep your oil changes on time no exceptions. Also get the filter at least one step up from the bottom of the line, I like wix personally

As a short term flush I could see it working okay, but the flushes I've seen are more like ATF or MMO than kerosene

Mine only does it for a little while during first start up. I have another set of lifters off my old motor but I just don't feel like pulling everything apart for slight inconvenience. A slow process using atf or mmo in the oil is fine by me. I will have this car for years to come anyway. I have other issues that need more attention, like upgrading my brakes, fixing the small rust spots before they get worse, and the biggie fixing the interior

I would be causious of pouring kerosen in my oil. As a gasoline engine runs the gas slowly seeps past the rings and starts to naruraly dilute the oil and at a certain point the oil becomes abrasive. I would be worried about running kerosen in my oil for a long period of time since it would kick start the dilution of the oil.

Your right, it does depened on the car, but if your creative you can do it. I've made special tools to get to that one screw you can't see. Its always a gamble sometimes you go over book time sometimes it works out better.

Not if you are creative

A while back I ran a motor flush and it didn't seem to help, but as much as I change the oil in my car they seem better. I know my moms old 90 that we had for 14 years always ticked early in the morning from 170k miles all the way till it died at 312k miles. I'm not to worried about it since they have never stayed ticking to long. I might just start substitute a half a quart of atf in when I do my oil changes and see if that helps flush some of the gunk out of the lifters.

No, USA axels bought out empi, but we are still getting old stock empi up here. Empi axels are good they are new and last a long time. Empire and empi were the same company, now they are USA axels which I haven't had a chance to try out yet

Just federated chepo oil 10w-30, I tried castrol and my oil consumption went way up. I loose about a quart in 3000, it just depends on how many people I pass lol

Best way to check your oil is when your engine is warm and has not sat long. Best place is at the gas station, while your filling up

Or you could use a long screwdriver, I have a nice old one I use a ton that has a full shank handle that works well for checking engine noises

Mine has mind of its own. It seems worse when its cold. Sometimes I get a stubborn one that just goes on until I give the engine a few rpms

I always with no exception changey oil before 3000 miles I always run wix oil filters. I think when I get around to doing my timing belt I'll check put my oil pump as well. My oil light always goes off fast so it must not be to bad yet.

I Might just do that, but I think I'll just buy some dexron 6 atf, its only about half the price and its basically the same thing

I have had and regulary work on about five of these early 2.2s and every one has the notorious HLA tick especially when cold in the winter. Its just annoying sometimes when I'm at a customers place and I start my car and your car makes such a racket. I'm used to it, I just turn the radio up until it warms up enough to go away. I just thought of making a topic on what kinds of additives you have used to get rid of HLA ticking. Also I won't use slick 50 in my subaru, it has it purpose in some applications mainly older motors with looser tolerances though.