mikaleda

I've actually stopped buying Moog for this very reason, ever since the Moog parts I've been getting have been made in China they just fall apart Very quickly. I'll pay extra for good parts. I actually have been finding OEM Subaru ball joints and tie rod ends on amazon for very comparable prices. I'll probably start buying OEM as much as I can.

I was thinking that a bearing may be starting to go out, but I think I'll service the brakes first and see what happens. The rear CVS felt tight and boots were intact.

I might just go ahead and replace my rotors and do a full brake service just to make sure that's not an issue. I inspected my tires while I had them off doing the struts and let Schwab just rotated and reballanced them so I know its not my rims or tires. My alignment is great I can let go of the steering wheel at 60 and it goes straight as an arrow. I inspected my ujoints/carrier bearing and they were solid. My brakes have been having a low speed squeak lately so it could just be a sticky brake caliper. I have a brand new set of rotors and ceramic pads for the front end I may just put those on and see what happens.

It feels like i have a tire separating, but they are brand new under 5,000 miles and i just had them rotated and rebalanced. my braking is good i don't get any wobble in the wheel when braking or any time and there is no noise. i think i feel it in the back end more but its hard to tell. untill recently i had been blaming it on the bad struts, but ive replaced them with brand new kybs and its still there. while i had it off all four wheels i checked the driveline, bearings and axles and its all rock solid. Im starting to wonder if i might have center diff damage. Just to clarify I'm running brand new hankook w405 185-75-R14, I just installed a set of new KYB Excel G struts, and the front axles are new EMPI replacements less than 10000 miles on them.

Okay this has been plauging me for quite a while now. I've had new tires put on and have had them rotated and rebalanced and I still have a low speed wobble. It happens worst at about 25, it seems better in second gear than third. It does it in nuetral Coasting or under power starts to go away around 35 and is non existent at 60+ mph. All, ball joints, tie rods, bearings feel tight. I just replaced the struts and both front CVS. The transmission feels good and tight, I've totally rallied this car and it is sturdy, the all wheel drive works great. What could be causing this problem? I'm stumped.

A used set of struts for a lower trim package without air suspension is probably the easiest fix

Check your mounts, motor and trans. Make sure they are attached, I had this happen once, it ended up being the motor mounts had both sheared off and the trams mount was all that was holding it in place

That's why I buy only OEM clutches

How was no spark verified, an actual spark tester or just starting fluid? Starting fluid is not a reliable diagnosis for no spark.

There are a lot of things it could be. Before replacing a bunch of parts we need more info and diagnose the problem. Let's start by diagnosing the problem First off is it a hard start when warm or cold? Is the check engine light on?

Check your connections, the main connecters to the transmission can be a bear to get clicked in all the way. You may think you got it tight but it may have loosened up as you drove it

As a small business owner, I can tell you from experience this is how I get return customers #1.) Honesty #2.) Reliability #3.) Get the job Done right the first time #4.) Charge accordingly, I'm always telling people, I don't use cheap parts. If you want it done cheap you can have someone else do it. I garuntee all of my work and I have quite a few loyal customers.

My craftsman set can slide over the stud and has an outer six point that I can slip a deep well socket over and use for extracting nuts off studs

berrymans b12 chemtool, it comes in a can that looks just like a seafoam can and works just as good for half the price. i use it all the time, a triple does will do wonders for a clogged carburetor

i bought one of those sets as well, they work really good.

Could be carbon build up around a valve, could try seafoam intake cleaning procedure

Check all your grounds, if they are all still connected try wiggiling connections while key is on and see if you can tell any differance. Sounds like a faulty ground

I just got it in the mail yesterday and I have been trying it out and its quite impressive. I will add more as I use it more Downsides so far are Weight, it is quite a bit heavier than an air impact Prolonged use makes the head get hot, but for what I use it for it works fine Pros Built in led light with 20 sec off delay No need for air line, or comopressor More consistent torque, the litum ion battery dewalt makes is hard to beat Better warranty than an air impact 3 years on battery's and tool No limitations, I can take this tool anywhere without hauling around a giant compressor and generator Torque, I have yet to really test this out, but I was able to pull a harmonic ballancer pully bolt of my spare subaru 2.2 with ease on the #2 setting

well i did it. i just ordered this http://dewalt.com/tools/cordless-impact-driverswrenches-high-torque-wrenches-dcf899p2.aspx?utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fdewalt.com%2ftools%2fcordless-impact-driverswrenches-high-torque-wrenches-dcf899p2.aspx&utm_campaign=6.18.15_Bruiser it will be here tomorow, i can hardly wait, ive got a set of rear wheel bearings i need to pull off my parts car, that should be a good test. im afraid of breaking bolts with 1200 ft lbs of break loose torque

Failing input shaft bearing. Typical of the Subaru stick shifts. Replace with a low milage trans or fix yours, there is a good thread in here in how to do this job. If you do fix it yourself put in the bearing for the turbo model, its much stronger.

I'm not a certified mechanic either, but I do own and run a successful mobile repair bussiness. I would normally agree with you, but under the circumstances I figured the op should probably spend the $100 on a new radiator to save a highly expensive head gasket job later down the road. Its realatively cheap to do a full cooling system and timing belt service. Its good also just for the peace of mind. This is just my 2 cents though, the op can do what they feel like

actually it is the case 98.9% of the time and that is why i recommended a full service of the cooling system , including replacement of a 25 year old radiator that is more than likely clogged with silicate.

that is a good sign that your radiator is clogged and is not cooling correctly. you should replace the radiator, these cars are sensitive to being overheated and its best to be preventative about cooling system problems. if it where me i would do the timing belt, water pump, radiator, thermostat (OEM only), and of course new extended life antifreeze.

Drivers side on the left under the dash

The Manuel button is basically an early form of traction control, it only operates when the shifter is in 3 or 2 and it holds the transmission out of first gear