mikaleda

Did you have any symptoms before you changed the sensor? It sounds like the engine is flooded for whatever reason, try starting with wide open throttle and see if it will start or clear out

Antifreeze is made to be mixed 50/50. Adding more antifreeze to the mixture will not help and will more than likely hinder flow. Subaru does suggest using Subaru genuine coolant conditioner to help prevent external head gasket failure. Your symptoms sound like you have air trapped in the system either from head gasket failure (internal leakage) not likely with your engine or inproper burping/filling of the cooling system

I would try burping the system again, it sounds like there is air in the system.

Merry christmas and a happy newyear!

Sounds like its low on fluid. Have you checked the fluid level recently?

I was thinking that a vaccume pump on a gas powered car was strange. Vaccume pumps are usually found on deisles since deisles don't create vaccume. Since I've been quite wrong about Subaru's of this era lately I didn't say anything until I saw a few more posts. Gloyal, I think you were a bit harsh on scoobiedubie, nothing he said required such brashness. On the other hand correcting his post is totally reasonable to keep it from confusing the original poster. Its Christmas time! Be cheerful! To the OP, gloyal knows what he's talking about I would follow his advice.

Empi, now known as USA axles are a good aftermarket axle. They are brand new so you dont have to turn in your old axles. I have replaced the front axles in my 90 with them and they are high quality and they aren't expensice, I think I paid $67 a peice brand new

Nooooooooooo!!!!!!

Pull the plastic cover off the filler neck. The filler necks like to rot out under this cover causing this code

I had a similar issue in my 90. I couldn't figure out what was going on until I went through a large mud puddle and had my CV seize up. I replaced both front CVS and the vibrations gone. Similar symptoms no steering wheel shake, no clicking, play, nothing. First time ive seen a CV fail this way. It does seem weird that it started after the driveshaft was rebuilt though. Any sighns of tourque bind?

Ive had that happen before, that can realy throw you through a loop. Glad you got it going! I didn't think about you having to mess with anything in the intake when changing the cables, or I probably would have remembered that.

I've had this happen before, usually you can hit the trio button a few times and it straightens itself out. If not your probably going to need to find a replacement instrument cluster to resolve the issue

Here is a pic http://cimages.carsforsale.com/301456/46B7DAE1-51BE-47F1-93B8-7BF9BE0B3A92_1.jpg?dt=031620120604

I remember that episode, I don't think it lasted long on the show. It was a cool looking brat though. I think it was an early 80's.

You more that likely can't see anything without pulling the bolts out that hold the box in place and flip it over. Get a test light and probe the main power wire in to the fuse box. There could be Corrosion inside the cable that you can't see, if the test light is dim on the fuse box side I would replace the main power wire going to the fuse box. I would probe all of the fuses and see if they are all getting full power. It could be the chasis ground isn't getting a good connection, get a set of jumper cables and connect negative of the battery to the chasis and engine block and see if that helps

This is true with a conventional style rwd car since %100 of the power is going to rear end, but in a Subaru on pavement is only transfering about %10 of the power to the rear end and that varries so its possible that rear end is not under power when the noise goes away. Don't tell me this can't happen because I witnessed it myself, I don't know exactly how the rear end failed and that's not the point. The point is the rear end did fail and it exihibited these exact sighns

I have to disagree, I have seen similar failures in a newer style Toyota rear end where there was a sever grinding noise followed by a banging noise that would come and go. It made it extremely hard to figure out where the noise was coming from. In the end it was the rear end and the issue was resolved when it was replaced I should also mention that the Toyota mentioned was an AWD with a simialer style rear end as a Subaru

Hmm I might now where some of those parts may be, like the rear wiper motor and instrument cluster. I'll see what I can come up with.

Check the underside of the main fuse box, that's a common spot for corrosion issues. When you replaced the cable ends you might have pulled on the wiring enough to cause issues there

Lack of resistance more than likely. Why are you concerned are you fealing sighns of tourque bind?

I wouldn't change out the calipers unless they are problematic. Ive had a lot of issues with aftermarket calipers. Flushing the brake fluid wouldn't be a bad idea though

A compression tester might be okay, it just won't be quite as accurate at lower pressures

Checking the vaccume lines is easy and free, I would start there.

If its looking grayish that's a bad sighn, I bet that if you drain the fluid you'll see a lot of metal. I would say transmission replacement would be the best course at this point

This sounds like a transmission failure. Pull the dipstick and see what the fluid looks and smells like. I'd be willing to bet the input shaft bearing is going out, that's the most common issue in theses transmissions