mikaleda

Even at 4k+ rpms I see no smoke. I'm getting the pcv valve in the mail today hopefully this will help

I think you need a set of 22's with spiners, brah That should give you street look, brah

Sounds like its time for a new motor for sure

That does make sense. I'm not sure how available just the joints are over here. Most auto parts stores sell the CV axles as an assembled unit with a core on reman axles

Okay we are going to need more info Year, model, engine size, auto or stick for starters Is the check engine light on? Are there any other symptoms?

Crazy. I think the reason for the confusion is that not many people replace just the joints over here. What we think of when you refer to the spline count difference is the splines mating to the hub or transmission instead of the bar connecting the two joints together

Probably since most people want a full size spare so they toss that to get more room

Exactly

That style is the inner and outer it just has one solid race. It is the easier option for installation

Just change the plugs and wires. Super easy to do on these cars cheap and is more than likely the problem Use good quality wires and you shouldn't have to worry about them for a long time. I like beldin max life wires (Napa lifetime wires)

Give them a call their more than likely going to need to look it up in the book

Weird I wonder how they compensated for the width differance The legacy has a substantially wider footprint

Yes these are the rear wheel bearings. The first option is like the original two peice style and the latter is the newer style one piece race. Both styles will work just fine Yes always replace seals, Napa should have the part number

Have it towed, not worth chancing it

There is literaly TONS of info on this in here Try google searching it with this site Like: 2 inch lift ultimatesubaru.org You'll find what you need Original front struts are adjustable up to 2 inchs, there are adjustments under the struts spring perch, use pb blaster generously

A first gen LEGACY with a FACTORY winch bumper? Is this a typo? My legacy in my profile pic is the first gen, is that what your talking about?

Sounds like you lost the clutch

Can't hurt to buy a new one and keep the old one for a backup rig

Okay, I was able to find the other posts you mentioned. Firstly, things would be easier if this was all one thread. Try to stick to one thread for one problem and things will be easier for us to help you. So it sounds like one of your main power wires is not getting full voltage. Most common issue points for corrosion are under the under hood fuse box and the wiring harness in the wheel well. Now something I have seen happen is people will remove the plastic liner in the drivers side front fender well. Then dirt and road grime pack around the wiring harness causing corrosion in turn causing problems like your having. Under the main fuse box is another place I've traced power supply issues to. Easy enough to figure out. Pull the washer fluid resivour, the bolts holding the fuse box in and flip it over. More than likely you'll sew corrosion in the back of the plugs, if not pull a couple and check for corrosion

Its a head gasket, easy enough to do in these cars. Always do both sides, if one side failed the other ones likely to be not far behind. Do the reasherch, do it right.

I will. it was working fine with federated chepo oil. so if the pcv doesn't resolve it I'll try switching back to federated and see what happens.

Every engine builder, mechanic and service tech I know likes running castrol. I've never seen it break down any faster than other oils. When I change my oil at 3k with cheap oil, its black, when I change my oil at 3k with castrol its still got a golden tint. That is just my experiance, I may be wrong.

I like thus idea alot, as long as they are good quality bearings I think I might just go this route. Probably wouldn't even need to pull the idlers I know what you mean about good quality bearings being pricey to. I bought a set of OEM japense idlers new and it was over $200

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I can't find your other posts, but if you can post the links to them we can see if we can get it going for you. Now if the fuel pump isn't energizing and you have no spark than it sounds like there might be a timing belt issue. The cam position sensor controls fuel Crank controls spark Since it sounds like your missing both, I'd be willing to bet you have a broken timing belt. There isn't much else that will cause both spark and fuel to fail Also is your check engine light coming on when the key is turned to the on position? This will tell us if the computer is getting power