mikaleda

At a 50/50 mix the coolant would have to see -34 to even start to gel Like fairtax said too much antifreeze could be causing the problem, and I would lean more twords that conclusion

No problem I hope you can get your Subaru up and running again soon

Also could be an ignition control moduel if this model has one

Okay now were getting somewhere. A little more searching shows that both models have a cap and rotor, i would try changing those out and seeing what happens. Sometimes the cap or rotor can get a hairline crack causing loss of spark

Crazy, this Subaru is hard to find info on. Well I would start with the basics. First do you have spark?

Okay from the info I found the EF12 is the engine you should have in this car. The two fuel system options it came with is a 2 barrel Hitachi carb or a multipoint fuel injection system I found some pictures please tell me which one your engine looks like This one http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/36/Subaru_ef12_justy_engine.JPG/440px-Subaru_ef12_justy_engine.JPG Or this one http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/EF12engine.JPG

Okay, I'm trying to find info on this particular engine. Very cool subaru I wish we could get these in the states.

Okay that sounds like throttle body injection. I'm assuming you have the 1.2l 3 cylinder?

Do you know what kind of a fuel system you have? I know that some non usdm models of subaru still used a carb and disty in the 90's and would have a different setup for the fuel system monitor than multi port

Is the check engine light on? If so I would try and pull the codes and see what is coming up. Also is this a multi port fuel injection? I'm not familiar with this model of Subaru so I can't be sure what kind of fuel system it has.

First, things to ask your mechanic. 1.)did they replace the thermostat with OEM Subaru 2.)when filling the system did they take the time to properly burp the system 3.) What gasket did they replace? Also when you say you have no heat, do you mean the car is running at normal operating temp and no heat is coming from the vents? The no heat could be a sighn of why its over heating, which can be caused by air being trapped in the heater core or the heatet core being clogged. Either of the above could be causing your issues.

Wow that theory is totally wack. If that was true the 2.2l would have the same faikure rate as the 2.5l which is not the case. Also the coolant conditioner Subaru reccomemds is to prevent EXTERNAL head gasket leaks and has nothing to do with the heater core. Also your cooling fans kicking on at cold temps is not a sighn of head gasket failure. If you are worried about an internal leak do a block test, don't screw around with these unproven theorys.

Still cool to see a brat in a video game.

I wish they would put a first gen legacy AWD turbo in a game like this. Seriously more of a race car than a brat

Ignition coil You can pick one up at the junk yard for like $20 Really easy to swap out, four bolts a connector and the plug wires

I see a side by side veiw of a LSD and open diff. It might be a VLSD on the left, that's a new style to me but its definatly and open diff on the right hand side

As I said from the begging.This is the number one cause of non engagement of 4wd in any vaccume accuated system

I was thinking it was an auto for some reason

Its possible that it just stuck cause of the cold. I would just keep an eye on the tempature gauge just in case though

I think you should do some more searching on this site. You will find a lot of the info you need. I can answer a few questions though First there is no difference left to right and I doubt there is a difference in auto to stick If you do have a bad rear cv, there should be either play or a ripped boot to indicate a bad axle Subaru uses rollpins to hold their axles in not circlips A vibration in the rear could be quite a few different issues Bad rear CV Bad ujoint in drive shaft Bad rear wheel bearing Sometimes rear wheel bearings can be tricky to diagnose. From what I have heard people like to use a temo gun to see if there is a difference in hub temp left to right front to rear to diagnose rear wheel bearings Personally I would take it for a long drive and feel around the hubs and ujoints for heat build up. Also it's good to go for a drive and get rear components warmed up before trying to feel for play in CVS and bearings Also if you try and fail to figure out what is causing your problem, don't be afraid to start a tread about it.

Good to know, glad you posted this

It sounds like a linkage problem to me

Well I can't see the picture, but from the way you desctibe the location of the part it sounds like the fan control switch

I may be wrong about that, I can't seem to find any part listing for an ignition control moduel. I was thinking of the older model KIA sephia. Other possiblilitys are coolant temp sensor or maf sensor Coolant temp sensor can be diagnosed with an ohm meter and checking the resistance of the sensor

Maybe ignition is at fault? Failure to start when warm is usually an ignition control model failure.