Dee2
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Posts posted by Dee2
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Craigslist usually has several for sale in a wide range of prices.
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The damage is done.
I would not touch the car. I would not trust him to do any more work. Pay for his bill to date and have it towed to another shop or Subaru dealer. Have the other shop diagnose\fix the problem. Your court claim will then be documented by any charges from the other shop and any charges from his shop following engine seizure..
This is a long route but I think it is your best bet to financial recovery
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I agree with everyone on the battery/terminals.
If you have run it down more than once, you may have weakened it. If you can recharge it properly, that may help. If it's old it may not fully recharge and you will be chasing ghost problems.
If cleaning the terminals/recharging isn't successful then take the battery into an auto parts store and have it checked if it is still within it's life cycle.
This issue needs to be completely resolved before going further..
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Good list, I would try to attack these in some sort of logical order.
First, attack the locked up 4x4. If that isn't fixed it hard to test the other fixes.
Second, I would attack the brakes / front-end noise, these may be related
Third, attack the engine performance, stalling; lack of power; backfiring
Just my 2 cents.
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The NAPA price of $38 seems way high. I definitely agree with NickNaCorn, check prices before you buy. Eric the CarGuy is generally correct, but I was also able to get a new boot kit for my Loyale from CostLess auto for $6 which included the band and grease. Eric's videos are still quite helpful though.
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If you suspect no fuel problem, eliminate that possibility. Try the starter fluid trick or rap on the fuel pump with a screwdriver handle. Sometimes they get stuck and rapping on them will get them to temporarily work again. May take more than one attempt.
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can you describe exactly what happens when you try to start the car ?
also, with a weak spark you may have to verify the parts recently replaced were in fact correct for the vehicle.
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sounds like you've checked everything but the belts, so they need a good looking at.
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follow the videos. I would only try rebooting after removing the axle. I believe he intended you to remove the axle but was offering an alternative procedure.
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I found this video helpful
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did you have to replace any o-rings ?
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you know, i cant believe i didnt say this before, but check the screw on the distributor rotor. if its loose, it may cause the issues your having. just a thought.
+1
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have you checked the brakes ?
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I have a '90 Loyale and once could not get it to start. It would crank forever, but never fire up. I found the problem was the fuel pump.
Rap on the fuel pump with something like a screwdriver handle. That sometimes will get it to temporarily work. It may take more than one attempt.
If you get it to run, you need a new fuel pump. If not, then more diagnostics are required.
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This video helped me
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If it does a hurt dance before dying, that's a good indicator of a fuel related problem.
When fuel pumps start to go bad they exhibit the intermittent problems you have described. Given the mileage on your car and the fact this is a common problem for Loyales around this mileage then I would look into replacing the fuel pump.
In any case, it might be a good idea to get it replaced given your mileage. If this doesn't resolve your problem it won't hurt to have a spare fuel pump on hand and you will have eliminated a possible source of the problem for very little cost and trouble.
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I would take it to a transmission shop and have them test drive it just to see what their opinion is. You don't have to buy their work but it sometimes helps to get an outside opinion..
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In my case the plug location wasn't as described,. I won't argue it further. As for replacing resistors, that's all new ground for me and perhaps if I find a fair price for getting the old clock repaired I will look into that option.
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I had the clock out and jiggled / pulled wires to find the connector but the wires from the clock went behind some vertical panel and are not visible from the glove box area or from behind the radio.
I used a flashlight and mirrors trying to see the route of the wires, and I could see it went behind some vertical panel which was behind the radio and would have required way too much disassembly to get at it.
The old clock is unrepairable because it's not a matter of loose solder connections anymore, all the connections are solid. Something is burned out and there is no display at all . It would have to go to an electrical shop which would likely cost more than buying a replacement. My replacement was $20.00 + shipping.. It is installed and working now. Unfortunately, I had to cut and splice the wires to get it installed.
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I gave up on trying to get to the connector plug. The clock wires run down behind a vertical compartment behind the radio for the air duct work and getting to all of that was just looking to be too complicated.
Finally had to concede to cutting and adding plug connectors onto the wires. These never look good, but the clock is working so it'll have to do.
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Well, on the 90 Loyale, neither removing the radio nor dropping the glove box provides access to the clock connector.
Still looking for the obvious way of removing the top dash panel that holds the clock .
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1990 Loyale
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My old clock is no longer repairable and I was fortunate enough to find a replacement. The replacement has a plug connector but I can't reach or find the connector on the old one.
The replacement is from a 92 Subie. Perhaps my '90 doesn't have a plug connector ??
The only apparent access seems to be removal of the dash section that holds the clock, but I'm only seeing two screws at the top near the windshield. What other hidden screws are there ?
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Everything you've described indicates the noise occurs most predictably when the car is in gear and generally disappears when out of gear. It might be worth the effort to do some further investigation into the transmission.
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If a vehicle does a hurt dance when it quits it is likely a fuel related problem. Electrical/belt related problems are usually more sudden death.
If you crank the engine and the distributor rotor does not turn then it is a broken belt. I believe there are also some inspection ports which can be used to visually check the belts by removing some plugs in the covers.
I would suspect the fuel pump as they do go out on older vehicles. Sometimes you can rap on the pump with something like a screwdriver handle to free it up and see get the car to start. If so, you need to replace the fuel pump which is easy to do.
Need a car.... Putting out the feelers Seattle area
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Better not mention Craigslist. Mister highbrow is too good for that lowly source.