Dee2
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Posts posted by Dee2
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After much pounding with big hammers, the axle and strut are out and the bearings/seals removed.
While I did all this I noticed the outside boot on the axle is showing some small weather cracks in the troughs. Nothing has cracked all the way through.
The upper boot is looking good.
What say you wizards of wrenching - should I replace the axle while I have everything apart ?
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Yea, I have been beating on the end of the axle with a wood block buffer and the axle nut on backwards. If this is the only option I will just keep pounding away until it submits.
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+1.
Listen to the people that have done this time and time again. You're making this way harder than it actually is.
I haven't done that much extra. I still would have had to take off the caliper, disc and disc guard. I still had to disconnect the sway bar link anyway, so all that is the same.
The only difference so far is I separated 2 ball joints. I'm basically at the same point as if I used your method -- ready to get the axle out.
I may abandon trying to get the strut off if can figure out how to get the axle to budge.
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Make sure your knuckle is actually "hanging" onto the strut. Sometimes rust and corrosion can keep the 2.5-3" of the stub from sliding out. Use some penetrant (PBlaster or WD40) and try gently tapping the small "stablizing finger" where it bolts into the knuckle to give it a little twist.
Also, you may have to undo the strut rod (the rod running from the control arm to the footwell) or at least have someone push down on the control arm. My strut rod was actually pushing the knuckle UP into the strut not letting it release.
The knuckle is definitely hanging by the strut. I've got it soaking in WD40. The control arm is separated.
Just need to get the strut loose and then push through the axle. Neither is budging at all.
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You don't need to remove the knuckle from the strut or the car. Just remove the inner control arm bolt and the sway bat link. You are making this a LOT harder than it needs to be. Front wheel bearings take about an hour per side.
GD
Just following the manual's instructions. I knew it was going to be difficult, definitely more than an hour's job.
The control arm is separated from the knuckle. The tie-rod ball joint is separated. The disc and caliper are separated.
I just need to remove the strut and then push through the axle.
Neither is budging.
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I'm trying to do my bearings, how did you get the strut separated from the knuckle ?
I'm having no success after spreading the strut/knuckle compression slit, the strut is still locked in.
Instructions only say:
Separate knuckle from strut by pushing knuckle down. On
Loyale, without damaging CV joint boot, carefully use a screwdriver to
spread knuckle if necessary. DO NOT spread housing slit more than .
16"(4 mm). Remove upper strut retaining nuts. On all models, remove
strut from vehicle.
Bolts are out and simply spreading the knuckle compression slit apart isn't getting the job done
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I am attempting to separate the strut from the housing....
I opened the compression clamp but not having any luck getting the strut out.
Any tips for getting it loose ?
Instructions only say:
Separate knuckle from strut by pushing knuckle down. On
Loyale, without damaging CV joint boot, carefully use a screwdriver to
spread knuckle if necessary. DO NOT spread housing slit more than .
16"(4 mm). Remove upper strut retaining nuts. On all models, remove
strut from vehicle.
Bolts are out and simply spreading the knuckle compression slit apart isn't getting the job done
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No need to touch the ball joints or remove the knuckle. Remove the axle and do the bearings on the car. ...GD
Could you elaborate a bit on how to remove the axle without breaking apart the ball joints or removing the knuckle ?
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Very easy - drift punch and hammer is about all you need.
There are several write-up's about doing these if you search the board here.
GD
I have been reading a lot of posts which is where I began to wonder if it is worthwhile.
I have replaced bearings in hubs before, that is not the worrisome part. The dilemma is the ball joints that have to be dealt with. Other posts indicate substantial problems getting them apart - some with damage - and then there is no discussion of reassembly.
Never had to deal with a vehicle requiring ball joints to come apart to replace wheel bearings.
Other specialty tools seem to be required for pulling housing off the axle and then pushing it back on (?), - some folks said the just beat the thing with a big hammer
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'90 Loyale Sedan FWD
I've been researching the task of replacing the front wheel bearings and it looks like it is going to be a nightmare with all the problems of breaking ball joints and specialty tools required.
Almost seems like it might be better to have a shop do this.
Folks report back spending days on this and breaking a lot of things while having to hammer off the ball joints etc. No discussion at all on how to re-compress these ball joints.
This is the only vehicle I have ever owned which describes so much effort to replace wheel bearings. Is it worth trying to do this without having done it before
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I also found these metal shielded style bearings. A little more expensive but wondered if anyone had used these ?
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9567
or these with rubber shields
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9708
Any advantage to a metal / rubber shield over the plastic shield ?
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For reference here are some open bearings :
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what is wrong with open bearings? as long as you replace the seals with the bearing i don't think you would have any problems any sooner than with a sealed bearing. i would not trust a bearing made for an electric motor in a car. for a wheel bearing that is.
Your concerns are the same as mine. The savings is the incentive. With the need for 4 bearings and a savings of up to $10 per bearing, a $40 savings looks very attractive - if in fact they can do the job. Some folks seem to think they can.
Here's the least expensive I can find so far:
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'90 Loyale sedan FWD
I'm getting a lot of oscillating/rythmic noise from the front end and thinking it is my bearings needing replacement, (bearing type 207)
When I search auto parts suppliers they show the open style bearings:
I've seen several posts regarding bearings and some folks recommend sealed bearings.(6207-2RS-C3 electric motor bearings ?):
--Does it matter which I use ? The electric motor bearings can be found very cheap.
--Are new seals required if I go with sealed bearings ?
--what about grease with sealed bearings ?
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thanks Dj7291993.
I did get enough dashboard stuff off to get at the needle and like you said I was able to move it with my finger until it would always spring back to a zero resting point.
Hooked everything back up and BINGO! the gauge is working in the normal positive range again, instead of the negative range.
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1990 loyale
I was getting bogus readings from my oil pressure gauge which always showed high pressure with the engine running. The engine runs fine.
I changed out the sending unit (twice) and both times get a negative reading with the engine off and just below zero when the engine is running. The relative movement of the needle is about what I would expect between the engine off and the engine running if it were starting out at zero.
Is there a way to recalibrate a gauge to zero out correctly ?
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The 2nd new pressure sensor was installed and produced only a small amount of movement in the gauge. It went from well below zero to almost zero.
Interestingly, the amount of movement is about the right amount for normal operation pressure.
I now think the problem is the gauge needs to be reset/recalibrated to zero when the engine is off.
I will start a new thread for this specific issue here:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1127696#post1127696
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ok, I disconnected the wire from the sender and it still indicates grounding. I want to isolate the chunk of wire which may be grounded and since there is a break point at a plug by the battery that is my target.
But the plug is not cooperating. How do I open this plug? Is it a twisting motion, or is there something I should be depressing, or ???
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UPDATE:
Got the plug apart. Had to remove the battery to get some room. It's a lift-tab,pull-apart setup. Once apart, I was able check for grounding in the length of wire between the sending unit and the plug which turned out to be ok. Checking the open terminal on the opposing plug end I see the grounding still exists.
The problem lies in the length of wire which goes into the fender wall, then into the cabin.
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UPDATE2:
Found another plug inside the cabin near the brake pedal for the culprit wire (yellow with a thin black stripe), so I was able to isolate the length of wire in the fender wall. That length of wire is also ok. So the problem of grounding has been narrowed down to the length of wire between the plug by the brake pedal and the oil pressure gauge. Odd there would be grounding inside the cabin (?)
I'll see if I can find a way to disconnect the wire from the gauge and isolate this last length.
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UPDATE3:
Couldn't find an easy way to access the gauge without disassembling the dashboard, so I thought I would eliminate another variable by replacing the old pressure sensor. ordered a replacement and installed it with some strange results. The new pressure sensor produced virtually no movement in the gauge. I put the old one back on and the gauge moved as it did before.
I can only assume the new sensor is a bad one, RockAuto said they would send me another new one again.
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the wire is connected to the sending unit by a screw so the connection is solid. the wire travels up only a short distance where it folds into a large group of wires inside a plastic split tubing. On the other end of that length of wire bundle is a plug which connects to another bundle which goes into the fender wall by the battery and I presume on into the cabin behind the dashboard.
There is no good way to trace the wire through all the way back to the guage.
When I touch an ohm meter to the screw on the sending unit and the other to the engine block there is continuity, indicating it is grounded (?)
I have no idea how to replace that wire .....
suggestions ?
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First of All: Check the Oil Pressure Wire Comin` from the Oil Pump`s Sender Unit, for a Grounding... if the Wire Somehow is Grounding, the Gauge will go Up and Stay there... if it Stays there for a while due to a Grounding, then the Gauge`s electrical Resistance will get Damage and then the Gauge will Drop down Below the 0º when Engine`s Off...If There is no Grounding on the Wire, maybe the Sending Unit is Damaged, or there could be a Problem with the Oil Filter...
Resurrecting this old post because I'm having this high pressure reading and the guage drops below zero when the engine is off so the recommended check for a ground problem sounds applicable.
How does one check for grounding in this wire ???
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When fuel pumps start to go out they can still work intermittently. So, seeing it work doesn't mean it isn't the problem.
Sounds like a fuel pump problem to me.
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yep, the SB108 is correct, it's the Amazon site that's messed up.
I have another problem now. While trying to reassemble the strut I find that the 2 new top grommets are too tall and leave no exposure of the threads to attach the end nuts.
Even with the spring removed, test fitting the remaining parts reveals that there is not enough shaft length to accommodate the parts. It is the right strut, dimensions are the same as the old one.
The only way I can get everything back on is by using the old grommets which have been "precompressed". There's no obvious way for me to do that with the new grommets.
Any suggestions ?
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Its dealer PN 21023GA610, have never been able to find it anywhere but a dealer supplier.
I called Subaru, they want $75 ea for a foam rubber bumper (!)
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Amazon's vehicle check says the SB108 will not work for my car (?)
The images shown for the SB108 boot indicate it will need to slip over the strut but the KYB GR-2 struts have a disk welded on top of the cartridge which will prevent anything from slipping over the top.
I suspect there is an error in the reference numbers somewhere.
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I started on a project this afternoon to replace the rear strut cartridges on my '90 Loyale Sedan. I removed the passenger side strut and while handling it, material resembling bread crumbs started falling out of the upper portion of the assembly. It seems that the upper portion of the strut bumper (#9 on the attached diagram) is, well...gone. The lower portion (the plastic cylinder) is still intact.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/534/loyalerearsusphilite2.jpg/
It seems the bumper is made of some sort of hard foam rubber that got crusty and simply crumbled away.
Can I get one some other place other than Subaru? If someone knows of a generic replacement for this, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks!
1993 Subaru Loyale fires but doesn't start
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I would definitely look at the fuel pump, as all the symptoms point to it.
You can probably replace it cheap from a parts yard and see if it solves your problem. At least you can eliminate that variable.