Dee2

Sounds like fuel system problem. Given that the car is that old and sitting around a lot you'll likely have to flush out the whole fuel system, with new filters. and then go from there. Maybe add some cheap additives and keep your fingers crossed.

Probably nothing. Old cars won't have all the safety features of more modern cars and there's really no way to upgrade them. They are simply what they are.

Ask $500 and let somebody that wants it take it home for some tlc.

Many years ago I had a similar problem with the belts. I have the outboard AC. I modified the length of the slot in the bracket to get some additional tension adjustment.

I forgot about adding a starter/ignition relay as mentioned by Ionstorm66. I had starting problems on my car some years ago and added a relay which fixed my problem. The kit I used was a Bosch WR1 Starter Relay, It came with directions and wiring schematic. Also, If your starter is sluggish, sometimes it is necessary to replace the solenoid contacts. Very easy to do, Videos are available on youtube.

From your description it sounds like the problem is in the wiring. I can only suggest following the wires from the ignition to the fuse panel and check for any frayed/worn areas. Make sure no wire is contacting sharp metal edges etc. If the fuse is the wrong size then that should be corrected also. As a fall back, you could put in a starter button. Many have done that when they had faulty ignitions.

Does this engine setup have a mass air flow (MAF) sensor on it ? If so, disconnect it and see if the engine runs better or worse. If it has a MAF that is malfunctioning, it could be calling for too much fuel. If it doesn't have a MAF...never mind.

Don't forget to change all the filters too. Check all the hoses and accessory belts.

Nice!! Looks to be in great condition.

Check for any codes first. Then check basics: -good spark ? all plugs clean and sharp ? plug wires good ? -distributor in good condition ? -good fuel pressure? -good condition of filters air/fuel ? -check engine with vacuum gauge, I use point on engine where brake booster line connects -good compression ? If no codes and no problem with basics then start checking sensors.

If you have a vacuum gauge it can tell you a lot about a poor performing engine. Only takes about 5 minutes to get the reading. I usually just use the point on the engine where the brake booster line connects. Make sure the plugs are clean and sharp and all the plug wires are securely connected. Other things to check are timing because of the backfiring. Check the fuel pressure.

my chilton manual says white wire is the signal wire - I presume it goes straight back to computer.

Maybe cut off the cracked end and stretch it out a bit ?

http://www.jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/

Hopefully you have a 30 day return option. You can leave it unplugged for now and chase down whatever. You may find other problems. These are old cars. PS: Did you ever check for any codes ?

Seems like you've diagnosed the problem. You can run the engine with the MAF unplugged. That apparently eliminates the other variables. Was that a remanufactured one or a salvage? OEM or aftermarket? I've been down that path on my truck where I had to replace a bad MAF, got a remanufactured one only to find it was also bad. Long story short, I had to get a third one which finally solved my problem.

If unplugging the new MAF also allows the engine to return to normal then I would suspect the MAF wiring harness.

It does. Unplug the MAF. The computer will default to preset air/fuel settings. The engine should run normally. This should allow for verifying that the fuel pressure is not a problem. This is only a temporary solution as the computer won't make any adjustments for varying conditions. So eventually, you will need a working MAF.

Earlier you said that unplugging the MAF kept the engine running . Have you replaced the MAF ?

Indicates a faulty MAF

Have you checked for any codes ? Checked the fuel/air filters ? Checked the fuel pressure ?

May want to take a look into the distributor to see if anything is faulty, loose etc.

Sounds more like an electrical problem to me. Wires or connections are expanding when warm and losing connection or ground. May need to jiggle wiring harnesses when cold to see if problem re-occurs.

No real way of pricing a car like that. It will likely have to be put up at auction to get its true value.