Dee2
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Everything posted by Dee2
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You should also run a vacuum test. It's dirt simple to do and can tell you a lot about the engine performance.
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Definitely sounds like a fuel problem. Since you've done the carb, filter and pump, looking further back at the tank seems to be a reasonable idea. Check the manuals on how to resolve the strainer problem. If that doesn't help then go back to the carb/injector issue.
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I'm guessing it's probably under a $grand, so it's really just a question if you like the car or not. We don't know your mechanical skills or budget. Like any old car and most any used car, they're projects, some more than others.
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Be careful when torquing the bolts on re-installation. Others have reported that the torque values in the Haynes manual are incorrect. Check another source or two for your yr/model. I believe the rotor has a specific front/back orientation. Make note of any markings for re-installation.
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This can also happen if the oil filter isn't installed correctly.
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That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section. It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot. The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed clearance . Not sure how to compensate for both problems together.
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maybe some photos would help
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Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?
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are there any computer codes being displayed ?
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I vote for a carb problem....
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Look into "How to keep your Subaru alive" http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/
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look into "How to keep your Subaru alive" http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/ Chapter 7
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Oil level OK? oil filter OK ? any oil leaks ?
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Did you reconnect the plug wires correctly ( the right order ) ?
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Test the battery with a voltmeter to see if it's dead. May need to recharge it.
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I had a similar problem. Even though I found no problems in my brake system and bleeding did not help solve the problem, I got improvement by re-bleeding the master cylinder. I did it while it was on the car. 1. make sure the car is adjusted by lift so the MC is level, (important!) 2. crack open a brake line connection 3. depress pedal and hold it down 4. close the brake line connection 5. check fluid level in reservoir. 6. repeat for other brake line 7. check brake pedal response. Repeat a few times if necessary. If you have 4 line connections on the MC you only need to do the two side connections because air rises. Also if your brake cylinders have the notches for turning them back in make sure the notches are aligned correctly to the brake pads.
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I would definitely recommend doing the simple things first. Pulling the engine essentially means a complete reseal is in order. Along with several other things while the engine is out.
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Do you have a picture of what you are referring to ?
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I just had this problem a while back and found that a vacuum line had come loose in the engine compartment. The line is in front of the passenger area under the hood. Check around to make sure the lines are all connected.
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Could be an intermittent fuel problem. When the fuel pump starts to go out they run intermittently. You can crank all day and it won't start. Next time you try it'll turn over. When the problem happens again, try rapping on the pump with a screwdriver handle. If it gets you going you found the problem. May take more than one try.
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The thing is, once you start taking things apart its silly to only replace one seal. Might as well do all the front seals including the oil pump. Depending on the engine mileage and the last time it was resealed, you may want to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing. It's much easier to do out of the vehicle than in. And you won't have to come back and take everything apart again for the next small leak. If one is leaking the rest are not far behind......
