Dee2

Probably your oil pressure sensor or your gauge is malfunctioning. Try replacing your sensor and see if that makes a difference.

Vibration can be difficult to chase down. I once had a water pump going out that caused vibration for a while - then it completely failed. It's coming from a rotating moving part. You'll need to find a few more clues.

So far all we have to go by is descriptions of noises, which seem to come and go. It's good that the bearings have been eliminated. Some slight in-out movement on axles is normal. Clicking and changes in sound while turning would indicate an axle problem. Vibrations could be related, or from another separate problem. Vibration could be a transmission problem but not enough info to make that call. You also said you didn't hear any noise through the shifter so there is that to go by as well. Vibrations/noises can also be from bad tire(s).

Yeah, clicking.... Transmissions don't click... axles click. Go to another shop if you need to. If they say it's the axle, go back to the first shop and have them take a test drive with you. Running it in the air may not reproduce the problem.

Check your wheels to see if there is any play in the bearings. Also check your shock absorbers. Also one of your wheels may be out of balance. I'm surprised your shop didn't already check these things for you when you complained of the noise.

Connecting the lines dry should make it a lot easier. Proportioning valve looks dry. No sign of leakage. I've never had to refill reservoir so that is a good check also.

I think that video answers my questions. Fill with new fluid, gravity drain then plug all four ports and then pump the brake pedal plunger. I'll unplug one port at a time to reconnect the lines. Hopefully, that will get me through without reintroducing air. Somewhere, I came across an idea that said if the brake pedal is depressed the ports won't leak. I'll try that and see if it is true. Going to be messy.... A new Beck-Arnley looks like a good deal. I just wish Rock Auto could ship faster. Seems to always take a week to 10 days.

Basically, I have no brakes. Pads and all, look ok. No leaks found. I tried bleeding lines a couple of times over the last 2 years, readjusted rear brakes, but poor braking has continued to worsen. Now, pedal just goes to the floor. So.... I'm 90% sure it's the MC. Not sure what is meant by "turn the thing over to install". I'm hoping to find a video for bench bleeding this old style MC with 4 ports.

90 Loyale, EA82, SPFI, automatic Looks like I need to replace the brake master cylinder. I have a few questions since I've never needed to do this before. Manual looks straight forward but... 1. Any recommendations or preferences regarding new vs refab. ? 2. Any preferred brands to select or avoid ? 3. How to videos are showing bench bleeding on units with only two ports. Looks like this model has four ports. Any special instructions or tools needed to bench bleed this model ? 4. Any tips or tricks to suggest?

Sounds like you may have clutch problems. If the engine is running fine but the car is not responding check out the clutch or maybe the transmission. Just for grins, make sure the parking brake is not engaged and none of the brakes are malfunctioning.

135,000 isn't too bad if the engine has been running good. There are several videos on youtube about doing these type of repairs. Look them over and you can decide if doing repairs are within within your abilities. I did them and I'm not a mechanic. Mostly it just takes time if you haven't done them before. You do need to have tools at hand.

post any info on your solution if solved. I'm also interested in how to fix fan speeds.

That's just more reason to think it's a frayed wire somewhere. One time when I had a problem like this on a vehicle, I couldn't spot the exposure so I wrapped all suspect wires in split corrugated tubing. Problem solved. No guarantees it will solve your problem but something to think about.

Usually when a fuse keeps blowing it's because of a frayed wire that's grounding out. Can be hard to find but some careful tracing can be the answer. As for selling it ... only you can make that call. Too many variables in the equation for anyone else.

Double check your wiring installation. Sounds like there's a wire grounding out somewhere.

Almost sounds like the pump itself may be the problem. Seems like what you're saying is the pump never does run correctly. Try rapping on the pump with something like a screwdriver handle a few times and see if it comes back to life. May need to try more than one attempt. If it does start working, then you likely need a new pump.

Is this a new problem ? Did it happen recently after some changes or did you inherit the problem as part of acquisition. Best guess is you'll need to get a wiring diagram from a service manual like Chilton's. Verify if anyone has previously monkeyed with the wiring by checking the fuel pump wire routings.

where does the negative wire go ?

Go back through the other items in power sequence -battery ok ? -fuses ok ? -starter ok ?

Check your timing belts for damage check your throttle sensor

Start with the basics. code 11,12,13 indicate problem with crank angle sensor Code 31 indicates throttle sensor problem -How did it stop running? Sudden power loss or did it do a sputtering hurt dance. Any noise ? smoke ? vibration when it lost power ? - Do you have spark at the plugs ? -Do you have power at the coil ?

I don't drive my EA82 in the summer because the AC is out and I have no tools to fix it.

Try to find a wiring diagram and find the common denominator wire that serves those gauges. beyond that you will need to start checking voltages and search for a possible wire break(s).

Mine is a '90 and it doesn't have that interlock either.