Dee2

You mean the thumb button on the side of the T-handle ?

glad you found your leak check your oil level, maybe bad oil filter ? have a glass shop do windshield - they are done in 30 minutes.

Best guess is that the pump may be going out. Problem may not be bad now but could likely get worse. You may want to start shopping for a replacement in case you need to get one in a hurry.

Some things you can do for diagnosing problems: -Check your vacuum lines for leaks. If you have a vacuum gauge run a test. If you have a fuel pressure gauge run a test. -Check your distributor cap for cracks -Check timing again.If your timing was off one tooth it would likely run bad all the time. - Check your oil/coolant levels to make sure they aren't over full. Keep checking for the source of the leak. Hard to replace head gaskets with engine in car although some have done it.

No, you need to check the starter. First find if the starter is getting 12 volts. There may be a damaged wire somewhere. If the starter is getting 12 volts but still not working then remove the starter and take it in to have it tested. If it needs new solenoid contacts they are easy to put in.

It's either --a bad battery or --a loose connection meaning no power to starter, or --a bad starter, or --the engine can't rotate. If you have good strong headlights then the battery is likely good Check all connections, again, since the engine was out Check to see if the engine can rotate by manually turning the crank, also check oil If still no success then a likely problem is the starter itself

You've already started the 86 GL here so keep going. Others, as Dave said, can be in new threads.

Don't do that. Can't help with the backhoe but pick a soob project and let's start doing some diagnostics so the problem can be found.

I always have used armor-all, inside and out, and have had no problems.

start with the easy stuff. ...sounds like you have fuel. -does the distributor rotor turn when you crank the engine ? -do you have spark at the plugs ? - are the plugs wired in the right order ? -check compression, see what you get. can't hurt

Clicking noise from starter can be caused by a few things: -poor charge on battery -poor battery connections -worn out solenoid contacts on starter -worn out key ignition Check your battery out and its connections. Replace solenoid contacts, youTube videos show how. Add a starter relay from Amazon and you should be fine.

wow, that's a helluva surprise.

have you checked the throttle linkage ?

check the fuses ?

Is the distributor rotor turning when you crank ?

Intermittent start problems... Maybe it is a bad wire. Check the wire from the coil to the distributor. May also want to check other wires for possible break.

Have you resolved the code problems ? A malfunctioning injector sounds like a good source of your problem.

Unless you're going to repair the original, something that simply plugs into the lighter is hard to beat.

Next time you have trouble getting the car started, rap on the fuel pump with a screw driver handle to see if that will get you going. May take more than one try. If it does, then you know the problem is the fuel pump.

Did you fuel up recently -- maybe bad fuel. Clogged fuel filter ??? Clogged air filter ?? Could be any number of reasons. Check the easy things first then start testing/checking more difficult things.

You aren't reading a code. Those six short flashes indicate the processor ID. More information about codes can be found here:

Broken wires, cut wires, jumper wires, old links, patch links, new links......mixed test results.....no starts/starts....oooofffff! OP knows what needs to be done. Get 12v from the battery to the fuse box and he knows what lies in between so he should be able to proceed from here. When everything is reassembled and if there is still a problem, then we can get a clear reference of where things currently stand and go from there, otherwise we're going in circles.

Unfortunately, that's another mixed result. You have 12v at the start of the white wire coming out of the links box. But when you bypass the white wire from the same starting point, it didn't work. (?) I don't know what to make of the fading issue.....

If you also bypassed the white wire and got no results then that also points back to the fusible links as the problem. As Dave suggested, see if you get 12v coming out of the links box at the white wire. That will help nail this problem down.

Because a jumper wire from the battery to the back of the fuse box did restore power, a bad fusible link does make sense. A continuity check on that big white wire would help to confirm.