Dee2

We're getting mixed test results. At one point you have power to the fuse box, then later the power is gone for some reason, but restored with a jumper wire. We need to get to some consistent test results to know what to fix.

Yes. Right next to the "Post" button, click on "More Reply Options" button. When the new screen appears scroll down to "Attach Files", click on "Browse" to select image from computer.

I doubt any body has a complete list but they are the safety type items, "horn, hazards and key in ignition chime"

If you have power to the fuse box, but nothing in the fuse box, then the problem is the connection at the fuse box. I would double check the connection and try to get power to the fuses.

Intermittent starting problems and intermittent running problems under load. I would suspect the fuel pump. I would expect the problem to worsen over time with difficult/no starts and dying out even on level roads. May be time for a replacement. Certainly worth eliminating that as a variable.

You have to resolve all of the five variables. 1. Battery 2. Fusible links 3. Connecting wires 4. Fuse box 5. Ignition switch -The battery, make sure you have good clean connections and cables are firmly connected and battery is charged. -If the fusible links are dodgy, replace them. -Disconnect the battery to check continuity in the wiring. -Check for voltage at the fuse box. Some fuses have voltage all the time, the ones you mentioned at the first post that had power. Others only have voltage when the key is in the on position. Replace any blown fuses. -If all of the above check out then the problem is the ignition switch. You can remove it and clean it or replace it. At this point you should be able to have power to all the vehicle when the key is in the on position.

Have someone turn the steering wheel while you watch what's happening under the hood. You'll see the problem and then can get whatever is needed.

If power is not going from fusible links to fuse box then you need to check the wires/connectors in between. Disconnect battery and do a continuity check on the wires.

You may have sticking lifter. if noise persists, try draining out a quart of oil and add a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Run that for couple hundred miles and see if the noise goes away. If not, you may need to dig in to lifter problem. Another possibility is the oil pump is not working properly. Oil pump reseal or replacement can be a solution.

check transmission seals at axle connection for leaks.

Does the engine crank ?

check your fusible links and fuses

great looking car!

How did it die ? Suddenly or did it do a hurt dance ? Has it been difficult to start prior to this event ? You say you changed the fuel filter but the problem may be the fuel pump. If the timing has been checked and the problem persists, then the fuel pump is a good bet. Rap on the fuel pump with something like a screwdriver handle a few times. if this get the car running then it's time to replace the fuel pump.

+1 on temperature sensor

Why do you think it needs to be adjusted ?

Check the battery connections make sure they're clean. Check the battery to see if it is charged. Use a voltmeter. Below 10 volts get battery tested. Recharge the battery if it is dead. Repeat step 2. If the battery won't take a charge it is faulty, get new battery. If battery charges but won't recharge from alternator, check alternator. If alternator and battery are good, add relay to starter. If still problems, check starter solenoid contacts, replace if worn. //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// see ChrisFix videos on YouTube for battery and alternator testing with voltmeter Harbor Freight has a battery/alternator checker for about $6-idiot lights Amazon has a starter relay kit for about $20-instructions included Solenoid contacts are about $5 on line from various sources-many videos avail. on replacement

Hot on the highway = water flow problem, hot in the driveway = airflow problem. Big generality, and there are certainly exceptions, but this idea always gives you a place to start looking.

If you're getting fuel to the plugs and spark then you have a timing problem. Double check plug wires to correct plugs, distributor, cam orientation.

Yes, clear the codes. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/subaru-diagnostic-trouble-code-definitions-1987-1994-obd1-with-code-gathering

Sounds like a no fuel problem. Bad fuel would start but run lousy. Check your fuel pump. Make sure you have the fuel lines hooked up correctly and tight.

I don't know about "optimistic" but since you haven't provided any information, I doubt folks will be able to help. Did you remember to put a battery back into the car / hook it up ?

Amazon's prices can fluctuate wildly. One item I purchased recently for $8. Then two weeks later I was going to order more and it was $30.

Why would you not change it while the engine is out ? It's much easier that way. If the engine is out change all the seals at the same time.

Since this is a one time trip.... I would pay attention to the coolant system. Make sure there are no leaks and the pump is not making any noise or vibration. If there's fear of leaks, add some magic additive stuff to compensate. Replace pump if there's spare in that pile. If there's any ticking noise from the engine add some magic stuff like ATF to compensate. Look carefully at brakes and lines to ensure no leaks or faulty parts. Good to be able to stop. Check all other fluid levels, take along some extra for each. Remove timing belt covers if any are there and discard. Bring some used belts if existing are dodgy. check all fuses, bring extra. Zip ties for holding axle boots together if existing are dodgy.