Dee2

Run a vacuum test on the engine for some diagnostic information. You might learn a lot.

To check the health of your engine, run a vacuum test on it. You will learn a lot.

Did this just start happening ? Was there anything done to the car before this began ? When was the last time it was running properly ?

I would first check all starter wiring connections for good clean contact, including battery cables. Could also be solenoid contacts in starter are in need of replacement, if yours has those.

Run a vacuum test. It will tell you a lot about the health of your engine. Based upon the results, you will know better what additional tests may be needed.

Some people on the internet associate this surging problem with not breaking in new pads properly. Not sure how true this is but their recommendation is to get the rotors turned, keep the old pads and go through a break in step again. Worth a shot. Rotors are now need of being turned anyway.

Seems that if you have a good coil and good wires then you are still left with a problem at the distributor itself. If power is going into the distributor and nothing is coming out then there it is. I know distributors can have cracked caps which can cause problems and others have reported some type of screw that comes loose in certain models of distributors. Perhaps one of these two problems is the cause of your problem.

Well, everything can't be "as it should", because you have no spark. It started up once, so it was working. The bogging down could be a separate problem. That sounds to me more like a fuel problem than an electrical problem. Electrical problems are usually sudden death. For the crank no start problem, the likely point to look at is the distributor.

some pdf files here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/

If the hinges are cut, it's best to get this problem resolved. Bad day if the doors break off while going down the road.

old thread ?

Usually just as cost effective to replace entire axle shaft.

Here's a copy of the diagrams from my Subaru manual in pdf format img20170312_23315043.pdf

The rattle could lust be a loose bolt on something in the engine compartment. I had a very annoying rattle which I finally tracked down to a loose bolt on the alternator mount. Since you have voltage problems check your bolts on the alternator to make sure everything is snugged down proper. If that's not it - check all the other bolts on things to make sure on them too.

As an alternative to FelPro you might want to look at Altrom seals and gaskets from NAPA. They are OEM quality, not sure if they come in a kit.

Here's a brief on TPS: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/76637-have-you-checked-your-throttle-position-sensor-today/?do=findComment&comment=636556 I think it's worth checking, I assume there's no CEL codes. I would also run a vacuum test on the engine and see what it reveals.

+1

Is this a new problem? Was it running well before ? Is there a CEL display on ? Could be a fuel problem. Did you add gas recently before the problem started ? Knowing more about the history and recent events will help diagnose the problem. If you have a vacuum gauge, it would be good to do a simple vacuum test on the engine. Also, there are inspection ports for the timing belts, check to see if the belts are damaged. If you have a timing light, check the timing.

I use a 1/4 ratchet with a universal and a 6" extension on my 90 Loyale. No removal of anything else required. Maybe that will also work on your 93.

Sounds like you got it resolved. Sometimes it has to be driven for a while, if the noise returns then recheck the torque at the axle nut. There have been occasions where a little over torquing can solve a stubborn noise.

The parts might be new but that doesn't guarantee they are right. Raise the front end and start pulling on parts to see what if anything is loose. Could be the axle nut is not on correctly, worth checking.

It should not take long to quiet the lifters. Under a minute is my guess unless you have a history of noisy lifters. Doesn't hurt to be cautious. I would check with another gauge and be sure. The sending units do fail so that could be a likely cause.

Raise the wheel slightly off the ground. Grab the top of the tire and push /pull on it. If it moves in and out the bearings are gone. There should be no play in the movement of the wheel.

yes

Roll up the windows and turn up the radio...