X35 Performance

Ok got it back together and reran the tests. Now we have (cold engine): 1 - 170-180 3 - 170-180 2 - 150-160 4 - 200-210 Checked the belt alignment several times upon reinstallation. The tensioner and rollers are all fine, so why so high in #4 I'm not sure..sticking valve maybe? I'm going to give it the seafoam treatment a couple times this week and re-test it next weekend with the engine warm to see what I get in comparison.

Ding ding - Prize goes to Nipper. Upon closer inspection, the DS cam is about 1.5 -2 teeth ahead of where it should be. I guess I have a Sunday project now...better check the rollers/tensioner and realign the belt and then retest the compression and see what we get. Oh to the other questions - 1. Yes all plugs were out, and throttle fully open, 2. The belt is about 2 years old with less than 30k on it. Thanks a bunch for the help! I'll follow up as soon as I finish putting it back together.

A little follow up - I did a leakdown test with a crude tester. #1 and #3 leak into the crankcase, 2&4 is much less noticeable. Using the crude gauge I had..: 1 - about 5-7% 3 - about 3-5% 2 - could not tell movement on the gauge 4 - could not tell movement on the gauge Timing belts are lined up correctly

Car: 2000 RS 2.5 Coupe 2.5 engine I just ran a check of compression and here's what I get: 1 - 140-150 psi 3 - 170-180 2 - 220-230 4 - 220-230 Everywhere I've looked so far says the normal range is about 180ish, so how is the 2/4 side reading so high? I redid the test several times because I didn't belive it. All plugs out, Throttle full open, 5-6 cranks per test. The 145 worries me as well. The engine has 123k. I bought it at about 103k a year ago. It runs fairly well, but shakes a little at idle. Any interpretations of these numbers?

You are right, no MAF in 2001. I have a 00 Impreza RS that was having possibly similar problems. I took the pipe with the 2 cats in it off to look inside...what I found was a bit surprising. Looking back upstream from the 2nd one, everything looks fine, but when I looked into the front converter, there was nothing inside there So.. I got out the saw and cut the pipe between the 2 converters and inside was the remnants of my front cat, looked like someone had jammed a 'chore boy' metal scrubber in there with great prejudice. It took some work to get it out of there. I'd guess it had to be 95% clogged, maybe worse.. I replaced the front O2 sensor and welded the pipe back together after cleaning out all the stuff and it runs a lot better.. I believe you can check for clogged converters/pipes using a vacuum gauge too, but I've never tried it. Hope this helps ya. Good Luck.

He's here. No problems

Woot, just arrived in Birmingham, Alabama for the night. Just 4 hours to go tomorrow and we're home. Hope everyone's trip is going well.

I would, but the outer joint is gone. It broke on the test drive last night. Better there than in the boonies I guess, but still is not cool... 8 hours to go until departure even if it is in the RS

Well, the boot just recently broke and wasn't making any noise, so toopid me figured I could save it. Then there was the big problem with the rollpin getting stuck because my punch went into the middle of the pin and broke off, so that was about 90% of the time there trying to beat that out of the thing Oh well anyway...only 11 hours until I leave so I don't care, and of course here in north Mexico there are no axles available, so the RS is the only option, oh well...

:mad: :Flame: :Flame: Great, just great:mad: :mad: I just spent about 10 hours replacing the boots on the CV axle, and now I just went on a test drive and the outer joint is broken. I guess no Alcyone for me this Dragon, have to bring the RS :mad: :mad: :mad: OH well..better here than in the middle of BFE for it to break....I'm still going anyway... WTB for Dragon pickup, one AWD SVX front CV axle!

We'll be leaving Wed. night from Tex/mex ville. Staying by Houston late late wed. night, then staying in Birmingham, AL Thurs night. Should roll into Fontana in the early afternoon on Friday. Sadly without the XT kit ready, nor the Spoiler for Rocky. Just ran out of time.... :dead:

Try disconnecting the CTS when it is warm and doing the backfire/no power thing. That may help diagnose if it is the cause. Also..do you have an ohm meter? The CTS is just a temperature sensitive resistor, there is a chart in the FSM of what temp/resistance it should have. Also - Advance auto in your neighborhood has a CTS for $14.94 Yes! 88 Danbury Road, New Milford Map 3 miles Yes! 1333 Main Street, Watertown Map 15 miles Yes! 301 Main St., Danbury Map 15 miles Yes! 649 W Main St., Waterbury Map 18 miles Yes! 80 E Main St., Torrington Map 19 miles Try stealing a plug wire from Bucky, that should work I think..

Check the connections for the fuel injectors. Since you were pulling all that stuff off, it's possible one or more is loose therefore no power. Also...is it loosing coolant, maybe sucking it in? (again?) You can bring Bucky to the dragon. People have driven worse cars there (me = dodge stratus one year due to XT failure, Jeffast = Volvo wagon, the list goes on I'm sure....)

On the transmission end, they are the same, not sure about the outboard end though..

I have seen it done once. I believe it uses the legacy glass roof. Search over at http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum for more results.

I'm running a SPFI block w/ turbo heads. I'm using a megasquirt to richen up the fueling under boost, and it works great so far. No pinging, no problems, without intercooling, and this is in Texas 95 degree weather with just 93 octane fuel. I'm not so sure it'd be so good with the stock ECU without intercooling, but it seems to work for those who've done it. The low end is far far improved, and you don't have to boost all the time just to get around. Mileage is better too. I'd say..do it!

It is not terribly hard to get the car running, especially now that there are enough people who have done it and can provide at least a base map. My XT has been running on MS fuel for about 6 months now. The EDIS portion is more difficult because it requires some fabrication work to mount the trigger wheel on the crank pulley somehow. Definately buy the pre-assembled kit and wiring harness - The RS kit is even better now than when I got mine. Anyone who can tinker with a EA82T should have little trouble getting one running. I can provide a few maps that should work to get just about anyone started. Then you just need some time to tweak it with a laptop and driving around with an assistant, or some time on a dyno would work too. I'd suggest a Wideband O2 for the easiest tuning, but it can be done with the stock type narrow band one. But..Garner is right..this isn't like WRX stuff where you just shell out the cash and plug it in, it requires some thinking and problem solving skills. You don't have to be a genius, but some determination and patience will definately be required. The more people that make the conversion, the better it will get, as the knowledge base will start to grow....

It's by the tank, on the right hand side. Sorta down by the rear wheel area, you'll see it..

I just swapped the shortblock on my XT, and the donor engine came with a different style distributor (the donor was an 88 unknown subaru) Is it possible to use this distributor in my 86 XT? I am thinking of bringing it with me on a long trip just in case, but if there is no hope for it working...then I guess not. I wonder if it need to interface with the ECU to work, or maybe it needs a control unit or something....? Or can I just wire it up to make it work? The disty in question has a squarish 4 pin connector on it and is probably a nippondenso, as my XT distributor is a hitachi (according to the FSM) and the two look different. I'm running megasquirt on the XT, so the factory ECU really isn't doing anything these days, if that makes a difference... I'm leaving this evening for the XT/SVX/Impreza meet at the Dragon in NC...so any answers would be appreciated soon. Thanks!

Ok..I'm just wondering if I need to tap that out and vent the crankcase like on the turbo block, or if it will be alright to leave it as is.. I figure Subaru must have had a fairly good reason to put that thing on the Turbo block and not the SPFI. Looks like I may need to fabricate up some sort of catch can or something right? Or just vent the crankcase with some little filters like the cars of the old days?

I'm just buttoning up my SPFI block to the turbo heads..finally for some hi-comp madness! I notice that the SPFI block doesn't have the separator thing at the back of the engine like the Turbo block does...Also, it appears that there is a threaded hole near the knock sensor that does not go anywhere like it does on the turbo block. On the turbo block it looks like it connects to the separator. Any ideas what I should do, if anything, about these things? Oh..and thanks to the USRM for the engine removal instructions. Worked perfectly..

Sounds like your easiest solution may be to find a Throttle body injector from another car (80's GM stuff had a lot of that) and adapt it to your carb manifold in the location of the current carb. I'd think you may be able to purchase just the SPFI throttle body from someone here and have it shipped pretty reasonably. SPFI Subarus are all over the place in the US, and probably in Japan as well. That would only be about the size of a carb for shipping. Megasquirt can control a SPFI type system with no problem. I paid about $300 for an assembled megasquirt unit with a complete wiring harness to hook it up from http://www.rs-autosport.com

Here is one for an Impreza..they use it to race autocross and such. Pretty cool. http://www.proev.com

Seems like the BRAT is the perfect vehicle for the EV conversion... How about leaving the engine in the front, and rigging up the EV stuff in the back and hook it to the rear diff? Then you could use the EV stuff for quick trips around town, and keep the gas burner for big trips or recharging, etc.. Then you'd have a very hybrid Subaru..