4RnrRick

I don't think so.... EDIT - The FREE Cars & parts are gone! I hauled them to a wrecking yard....probably to get crushed.... Its just that my yard couldn't take the mess any more.

Sorry, but you HAVE to take the whole car.... all or none. If I don't find anyone that wants then, then I will just have to haul them away for scrap!

bad torques? I torqued everything with a torque wrench. and the head where put on at 55 ft lbs (not the 47 the book says) There was engine noise, then HG gone.... Yes there was engine noise (TOD) and it was getting quieter and then I seen the white smoke out the tail pipe. There is also water in the oil. how was oil pressure? It was half way up teh OEM gauge - looked fine to me. It is ashame you choose to give up, crap happens... I'm tired of dealing with it and got other projects I want to do....If the car was runnign I'm sure I could sell if for $1200-$1500....Actually I was kinda counting on that money!

Thats just a oily timing cover.... see this car had a hole through the block when I got it so there was oil everywhere! Anyways at lunch I fired it up and let it idle...well about about 5 minutes its started to quite down - Then it blew a head gasket - SON OF A B!!!!!!!! Anyways I'm done with it. I just going to get it out of the garage and try to give away the subie parts cars. and then when I get the title for this one (Its in process through the DMV) then I'm just going to try to sell this one for $250 because it a pretty nice car and be done with it. ARGH - I's so pissed off right now! If your interested, I'm located 20 minutes South of Eugene, Oregon.... PM or Email me at RickB@engineer.com edit - guess I should say what the cars are! Could be a nice car with a new motor! $250 : 1990 GL-10 Wagon, AWD, Auto, Blow head gasket (high compression MPFI EA82) Junker parts cars! FREE: 1989 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, no motor, Bad Body (tree fell on car) FREE: 1988 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, no motor, Bad Body (Car rearended) + tons of Misc motor parts

I just built the motor - so yes, its been apart. But I did not remove the oil pump, so I'm assuming thats okay since the donor motor (this short block) sounded nice and smooth. At lunch, I will go home and fire it up and let it run and see what happens.

Frank - Thanks for the explaination. Yes, thats mostly what the sound, sounds like. Probably also has a hint of exhaust leak in there also. No, I did not replace or even remove the oil pump. I've only had the engine running for say 3 minutes total.... and thats not all at once. 15-20 minutes for it to go away - ugh..... I bought the donor subies, so I have no idea how long they sat. But I did fire up the donor motor (spfi block) before I started the project to make sure the bottom end was good. But I'm sure all oil passages got fulling drained in the assembly process... Its just that with other motors I've built (not subies) the oiling system primes itself pretty quickly. Good to hear that it could be something so simple.

TOD?? Yes, I Might be able to record the sound but I can't do that until tonight. BTW I'm attaching a picture of what this setup looks like. if you look closely you will be able to see the MPFI injectors under the mess. and you can kinda see how I adapted the SPFI intake tube to the MPFI Thottle body and MAF. Also notice that there is no turbo on it.

I built a High Compression MPFI motor (non turbo) but somethings wrong. Its REALLY REALLY noisy. The sound is a loud mechanical sound. kinda like a rod knock but much more frequent??? BTW its installed in a 1990 Loyale with a 4spd Auto and all the parts are from EA82 wagons. Heres the parts I used. 88 SPFI block (was a good and smooth running motor) 88 MPFI heads & Cams (from a EA82T motor that had a rod knock) 90 MPFI Turbo Intake and Harness (with turbo removed) 90 MPFI Turbo ECU 88 SPFI Exhaust New head gaskets New cam tower o-rings Custom intake hose I also: Capped off the turbo oil pressure and return line. Routed the turbo coolant line through a hose (since the turbo is now removed) So did I miss something when I built the motor. I know there is something wrong with it becasue it sounds like crap - I'm just not sure where to go from here... Please HELP me identify the sound. It starts fine and I don't hear any stumbles through the lower rpm range. (but I'm affraid to run it much sounding like this)

Well the test drive today was sucessfull. All I had to do to get the 4wd light working (since the harness is a D/R 5speed harness running a PB 4wd tanny) was I had to jumper the ground wire (black) and the 4wd sensor wire (blue/red) on the tranny plugs since the tranny has a plug with 4 wires on the harness has a plug with 6 wires.

WOOHOO.... IT RUNS :banana: :banana: Was a tad bit loud because I forgot to put the exhaust back on, But it runs! Just got to trouble shoot the Tranny selector switch stuff and then I should be able to put everything back together 100% and test it. So swaping the Dash harness appears to have done the trick!

Thanks for the info guys! So should I torque them to factory spec - or is over torquing common a practice? I know with Toyota Supra Motors (7MGE & 7MGTE - 3.0L I-6 motor) the factory spec is too low and its a common pratice to over torque them by 15-20% since they are know for head gasket failures.

Are the head bolts on a EA82T Reusable? or are they Torque to Yeild? Oh and where is a good & cheap place to get Head Gasket Sets? or Should I just get individual Head gaskets. (I'm planning on building a High compression MPFI (minus turbo) with a SPFI short block.)

Tonight I decided to try to pull the dash harness from my donor car. I found out its really pretty simple to do. There is a couple cables (for vents), a couple vaccumm lines (for the vents), a bundle of plugs behind each kick panel (driver side and passenger side, 1 ground wire under the center console and 7 bolts and your can remove the complete dash (fully assemblied) from the car with the harness in it... Oh I also lowered the steering coloumn down by removing the bolts that hold it to the dash support bracket. It was so easy to do that I also did it to my good car. And after a bit of chasing wires down from the Push Button 4wd switch, I think I've got that figured out. on which wires I need to transfer to the new dash harness. Solid blue wire and a Green/yellow wire that goes from the main black connector on the driver side to the main white connector on the passenger side. Anyways this is the route I'm going right now and so far it hasn't been that bad. I just work on it a couple hours a night and so far with everything I've done - I might be up to 12+/- hours, and that includes reparing the front of the good car since it was damaged slightly.

Thanks for the info - I think I'm going to investigate the complexitiy of the dash harness some more... Wiring up the PB tranny looks pretty simple from what I seen. Its just that I'm this far into it and I kinda lost on whats the best way to finish the job for me and the information I have available......

Now that I'm dealing with this (like you said in the other thread) I'm really not that found of the whole idea? Mostly for teh fact that I don't have any good wiring harness info. Can I just swap the dash harness between the two cars? How big is the dash harness???? Is it the rest of the car (dash back) ??? or just under the dash?

Sorry about the driveline confusion - I was thinking about the auto 4eat to manual d/r swap...

I know from my experience here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67166 that ATLEAST one plug on the Tranny will be different. I also know that you will need to swap in a D/R driveline since its a different length. BTW I might have the parts available for the swap in a few weeks for a small price.....

I need some help here! I've acquired (4) subies in different conditions to try to make two good cars to maybe keep or resell. (probably resell) Car 1.) 07/88 Wagon, EA82 SPFI, D/R 4wd 5 speed - Tree fell on it so the roof is trashed but the motor is good. Car 2.) 01/88 Wagon, EA82T MPFI, PB 4wd 5 speed - Minor frent end damage (already repaired) but the motor has a knock. Car 3.) 01/89 Wagon, EA82 SPFI, D/R 4wd 5 speed - Rear ended so the body is trashed but the motor is good. Car 4.) 10/89 Wagon, EA82T MPFI, Auto 4 speed - nice body but the motor has a hole in the block. I bought them from "ddog87" which is a 4 wheel'n buddy of mine. His post about the cars when he had them is here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66717 And I started a post about Cars 3 & 4 here since I was concerned about the auto to manual wiring harnesses: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66887 Anyhoo, I figured I would start with the first two manual transmission cars {EA82 SPFI, D/R 4wd 5 speed} & {EA82T MPFI, PB 4wd 5 speed} since they should be the easier ones to swap. So I pulled both motors, wiring harness and ECM's. Last night I got the EA82 SPFI motor, harness, ECM installed into the Turbo P/B 4wd Wagon. I compared the harness before I installed it and there were some major differences (one large plug under the dash, the 4wd Push Button solenoids and one tranny plug) So I swapped over the 4wd Push Button solenoid plug and I installed it hoping it would work - knowing that I probably only had about a 5% chance of it actually working. but I had to try since I had everythign torn apart that far. Well I it cranks over but thats it. I have no spark, no fuel pressure and no power to the ECM. Basically I've determined that its NOT plug and play even with swapping of the wiring harness back to the ECM. So where do I go from here? Looks like I have a few options. A) Try to hardwire power to the ECM and see if I have spark then? How would I do that? my book shows a Red/Blu is the power to the computer but there are several wires with that color in the harness. Does anyone have a labeled Schematic for the ECU plug wires? Swap over dash harness and see what happens - which might eventually mean I will also have to swap Trannys, CV, driveline and rear diff. C) Swap the MPFI harness back into car and make a high compression SPFI motor (remove turbo stuff) using MPFI heads? D) Give up and burn them to the ground...

Slow down guys..... I DON'T want the car that bad. I got two cars and I just want to make one good one out of them. If the good car stays an Auto - Great, new car for the wife ; But if I have to convert it to a Manual - then it will be sold and hopefully I can make a few dollars in the process. So with that said I basically only have the parts on hand available. (see first post) I'm just not willing to go source another car or more parts. Plus I really don't want to tear the motor down to a short block and start over. So I'm just really just trying to figure out if the EA82 SPFI engine harness can support the FT 4wd 4EAT Auto tranny. So far its sounds like its not a plug and play swap - but with some wiring, it can probably be accomplished.

Well I looked at my FSM on CD and the wiring diagrams SUCK (low res). Guess I will have to figured it out the hard way when I tear into it and start comparing wires. Worst case, I guess I will just swap the D/R Manual tranny (and pedal assembly, driveline, CV shafts, etc..) over into the Auto car and just sell it for some cash. I hope it doesn't come to that because thats alot more work. UNLESS anyone else can offer up some usual info to say otherwise?

I looked in my haynes manual for an Auto Wiring harness for the '89, but I couldn't find anything. Guess I will need to dig out my FSM on CD to see how bad it is. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the FT Awd Automatic Tranny? Or is there already a thread talking about this??? BTW - I'm a Toyota nut and I'm very capable in the garage. I've swapped a '89 Supra/Cressida 7MGE [3.0L I-6] into my '85 Toyota 4Runner (oringally a 22RE [2.4L I-4]) and I've swapped a '00 Tacoma 3rz [2.7L I-4] in my 2wd '85 22rte [2.4L Turbo I-4] which is now a 4wd. So doing a little wiring isn't that big of a deal - but I do want to find the easiest and quickest route to do the job.

My plan was to just swap the complete engine wiring harness & ECM - not to graft them together. That will work right ??? Thats another reason why I would rather NOT build a high compression turbo motor. I'm 20 miles south of Eugene.

Yeap, Thats what I want to do. Since the good Auto car has the blown EA82T - I have to swap in a new bottom end already. So I figured I might as well just swap the complete motor into it. that way I don't have to spend time tearing the engines down. Does it have its own harness or is it intergrated into the engine harness? Thats good news! So can anyones else confirm these items.......Sounds like it shouldn't be too bad of a swap!

I just acquired myself (2) Subies. The good car - 01/89 GL-10 Wagon, AWD, Auto, EA82T, Bad Motor (hole in block) The donor car - 10/89 GL Wagon, D/R, Manual, EA82 SPFI, Bad Body (tree fell on car) So I want to swap the good motor EA82 into the GL-10. What problems can I expect? Both cars are complete. From my research it appears that I will have to swap Motors, Downpipe, Complete engine wiring harness, ECM and maybe the engine crossmember. The one main question I have is what about the tranny wiring? Will the engine harness from the car with the manual tranny support the Auto tranny? or is that wiring seperate? Do these cars have a TCU? (Transmission Control Unit). Or to get everything to run correctly - will I HAVE to convert the good car to a manual D/R tranny? My goal with these cars is basically to make one good running car for my wife to drive. (note - my wife doesn't drive a stick) :-\