4RnrRick

Anybody got a good picture of this seam....

Why not fully weld the seam? If the shetmetal is already overlapping, should be a piece of cake to sticth weld with a mig. That will make it alot more durable.

For the windows I think I will just make some new ones out of some thin plexglass and glue them them. For the doors I will just have two sets..... One for the road and one for wheeling. but hopefully I can come up with something to make the half doors kinda weather proof with a removable canvas......

My 4runner is bobb'd 9" My 2wd is stretched 13" on the cab and then the what use to be long bed is cut down 13" inteh front and 20" off the back. so as for the work involved, I think it should be pretty easy. I think the hardest part will be just the bondo work to make it look factory. Thats where you can really confuse people!

Yes my plan is to basically make a long wheel base 4 door hatch back..... Should be sweet. A york 210 is the biggest "York" full size Air compressor that people use to make engine driven On Board Air systems that are belt driven off the engine. For more info read here..... http://www.onboardair.com Here is the one I installed on my 2wd pre-runner. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168115&highlight=york

Any other opinions?

It sounds super easy to do so I think I'm going to have to try it...... Once I get a Subie........

Didn't think about the locking part. I would assume the law refers to a emergency brake so that if your hydraulic brakes fail then you have a back up mechanical braking system. and for that you won't need that to lock into place, It would just have to operate the brakes.

79-80 4x4 toyota had 3.90 gears! Plus 'I believe' there are the 3.73 gears that came in the 2wd 1-tons that had the 8" diffs which will swap into a 4wd housing.

If I did decide to half door the rear doors then I think i would like to do something like this ....... Half doors are realy pretty easy to make but they do take a lot of time since the sheetmetal welding is usually corner to corner. and sicne they are right infront of you, its hard to cut corners because you will see all the little defects in the body work. Guess I found my new avatar...

Got a link? SWEET - Thats what I wanted to hear! I've seen dune buggy drivers use them and I can see how it would take some pratice to get it down......

I think you would need a 4wd toy axle since its 6 lug and already has correct bolt circle. Sami only have a 5 lug. And nissan/datsun axles are really expensive to get gears and lockers for...... does anyone know if the XT6 5 lug bolt pattern is the same as a Sami (5 on 5.5") or Ranger (5 on 4.5") Bolt pattern??

Why do you say that? I know a hydraulic ebrake would be illegal because in most states since the laws require a functioning mechanical ebrake. But if you just modifiy the cable system, it would still be a mechanical ebrake. You would just have to pull two levers instead of one .......

I was wondering if anyone has ever tried retro fitting the ebrake to a independant system. So when you are spinning the tire that doesn't have traction, you can pull a the e-brake lever for that tire and sent power the othe other tire which probably has traction? So basically it would be like turning brakes but for a different purpose.......

I'm still unsure on that one. I will probably go LSD because I don't like the idea of swapping an axle in to go wheeling even though I know welding performs way better. But it would be pretty easy to just solid axle the rear and keep the lift low.

Does this sound/look feasible to you guys? 87 4wd D/R EA82 SPFI Wagon Build 4"/3" Lift 30x9.50 BFG M/T on 15x7 IFS Toyota Rims (Tires currently measure 28.5" Diamter unmounted) Redrill hubs for 6 lugs OBA using York 210 in stock is location Bob 9-12" off butt Custom Bumpers with portable 2500 LB ATV Winch mount Rock Sliders Front Half Doors Heres a quick photo chop of what I was thinking. I borrowed the picture for the gallery and I forgot who it was...Sorry.

I was told the motor was gone thru around 100K. and since that time its has a pretty good service records since the owner didn't do any of there own work.

I would be buying it to build it, and to use it. Not to resell it..... I don't exactly know..... Thats just what the current owner said. But I was told the parts car would have all the parts I need to repair that 'hub'.... I'm confident I can fix what ever I find pretty easily..... You guys got to remember that I don't currently own or for that fact, have ever owned a Subaru. So I'm going into this pretty GREEN. But I got lots of experience under my belt when it comes to Mechanicing, Custom Fab Work and 4Wheeling with my Current Toyota and a Jeep before that. So I'm just looking for a starter vehicle. Which for me I've desided is EA82 SPFI, D/R 5 speed which is what this is. Seems kind a odd that you guys would pay so little for something like this when the engine and tranny alone are worth more than that?

Any other opinions.......

more pictures..... Thanks in advance. :-p

This has probably been asked over and over so bear with me. Got a line on a running '87 D/R 5 speed wagon with EA82 SPFI (200K) with Bad interior and Hub.... Plus a wrecked parts car (same year) with good interior and a donor hub but no engine or tranny. How much should I pay for them? Pictures attached...... Oh as for Mods planned I'm thinking 3-4" of lift (I will design and fab that) with 30X9.50 BFG MT about 40% tread (28.5" in Diameter). Plus I'm thinking of bobbing the rear 9-12".

So is there any finished picture of these 4 door brat conversions????

Can't wait to help you design the new suspension. (if you where going to do what I hope you do.....) Okay, so I can wait, but I hope you include me in the process..... Sent you a couple PM's with a bunch of suspension info for the possible new design. Either way you go it should be cool......

I was wondering when/if you where going to post this. I figured with this one you would just keep it secret until you unvealed it after you tweaked it to your new specs....... I also didn't realize that it was a built hatch you traded it for. I thought you traded it for a virgin Hatch. Makes more sense now...... Anyways, I'm interested in buying it depending on price of course. Would be a lot easier for me to buy a built one but not as fun...... I think I'm going to have to give you a call tonight so I can come check out.

Yeah, Smurfing them might also help since a lot of the candians have there birfs smurf'd because he doesn't charge very much. But I consider Bobby long to be in the inovator of using this treatment on Birfields so thats where I recommend people to go and thats where I got my Longs for the Toyota. As for "new" joints verses "old" joints. For the Toyota stuff the OEM joints are FAR superior so most of the Longfields are just used OEM toyota birfs that have been inspected and then modified by Bobby Long. So it sounds like the same type of process could be done to the weak parts in a Subie. I guess the only problem being that it would be hard to find nice front CV's since they are alsways turning unlike a Toyota front axle.