4RnrRick

For my 4runner I use 1 1/4 schedule 40 pipe (1.660 OD X .140 wall) which is 2.27 lbs/ft. For a buddy's Truggy that we built, we used 1.75 X .120 wall HREW which is 2.09 lbs/ft. For my Subie, I'm thinking about using 1" schedule 40 pipe (1.315 OD X .133 wall) which is 1.68 lbs/ft to try to keep the weight down.

Just go toyota axles..... They are the strongest for there width and with 31" you should have ZERO breakage...... Danas would also work but more expensive since you have to narrow them. and sami's start to have problems around a 31-32" tires.....

Sure sounds like rims to me........

I've have one of their custom length Can-Backs on my 85 Toyota 4Runner. Its been on there for about 3 years now and still looks great especially since what I've put it thru. I've only waterproof treated the material once in that time (right after I got it) and its still keeps the weather at bay. Its really a great product, keeps stuff dry and doesn't fade or shink like other canvas/vynyl products I've seen! I just recently put my first rip in it which I'm amazed I haven't done it soon since I drag mine thru the brush and trees on EVERY 4wheeling trip. Still need to repair that...... My 4Runner is even Bobb'd 9" and they made it to my dimensions and are a really good company to deal with. My only work of advice its NOT to use email to contact them! I've had nothing but problems trying that method.... Just call them up instead.

If I seen Subies on the 'Con, I would HAVE to cheer you awn 100%. Although truthfully under my breathe I would be wondering how far you could make it scine you have to use a lot og go peddle to get over stuff.... But really most of the trail is pretty mild and there are bypasses around most of the gnarly stuff. Heck if the engineers at Jeep can drag a Liberty thru it, a built Subie should be able to do it from start to finish with only being winched a few times. Nothing like taking an under-powered, under-sized, unknown 4wd CAR through an Epic trail like the 'Con........ I enjoy listening to the storys from Mudrat79's adventure down there. Maybe someday I will have big enough balls to do it in a Subie, but for know I think I still would rather take my 4runner. The people that I went down there with thought I was NUTS for driving my 4runner down there, then doing the whole trail (Including the Sluice Box!) and driving it back home. Everyone else towed....

Well I'm glad to be part of that 10%...........

Lets see here, this is what I have with my dual transfercases.... Transmission Ratio: 3.954 First TransferCase reduction box Ratio: 2.28 Second TransferCase reduction box Ratio: 4.70Axle Ratio: 5.29 "Crawl" Ratio: 224 ish Oh wait, you where talking Subies huh.... well my Subie is the same as yours mogan........ 20 ish : 1 .... :yuck: Sure my Toyota seem's pretty low but there is still time I wish I had 300 ish. But the smaller the tire the less distance you are going to travel per revolution. But another way to look at it might to be to comapre actual feet travel per minute. This is an unfair example but it will give you the equation of rthe subies...... With 800 rpm * 36" tire * 3.14 / 12 in/ft / 224:1 = 33.6 feet per minute at idle. Now in a Subie at 800 rpm* 28" tire * 3.14 / 12 in/ft / 20.5:1 = 293.2 feet per minute at idle. Anyways sorry for the rambling.... its just this 20 ish crawl ratio makes me laugh.....

I'm downloading them right now. already watched the first two vids. VERY NICE! Sweet vids...... I've driven Poison spider with a Modified XJ probably 6 years ago and had a blast! I also rode that trail on my mountain bike the year previous and that was totally awesome! One day I hope to make it back but its a LONG ways away for me! like 20 hours of driving or something rediculus like that! Oh, don't yous guys air down those tires! you would be surprised at the difference in traction and smoothness of ride!

I can't believe nobody said a repair manual and a detailed state map book! and a ohm meter also helps in a pinch..... One more, a Tarp just incase you have to make a shelter or crawl under a subie for a repair in the mud and slop!

Thats a lot of weight and beef for a little subie.............

I'm not slamming anyone because they make more or less than another person. I just mearly said "to me" it seems like MOST subie offroaders are poor, hence they want to do stuff the most economical way. Also my definition of Poor is probably different than others..... I do have a good paying job but I got a morgage, student loans, credit cars, car payment, one child and a wife to support. The wife stays home and takes care of the little one so I bring home 90% of the money in the household. Some might call me rich (and have) but everyone live the best lifestyle they can whith what they have and everyone has priorities..... Just from what I seen so far from the Subie guys is MOST guys don't want to pay for something they can make for cheaper if they got the knowledge .... and manufacturing and selling new parts for this type of a NARROW market has lots of risks! Also subie owners don't appear to be always trying to out do the next guy.... with the lastest bolt on.... Hence like some of the Jeep owners I've met... If you think you got a market or niche - Go for it.

The thing that I've noticed is that most Subie Offroaders are POOR! and Very Tight on CASH. They still want to go have fun up int he woods but can't affoard much so they build a Subie. That and doing a 6-lug hub conversion looks so simple and is DAMN cheap. The other thing is that most are Do it Yourselfers. Subies are not like the bolt-on Jeeps!

I would have to assume that is Material and LABOR! The actaul cost of steel is pretty cheap when you compare it to labor. Especially if you can buy scrap steel from a recycler. My guess is the steel cost might be around $250 but thats just a guess if you bought new. Steel from a recycler could be 25-50% of that. Then probably another $50-$75 in hardware (nuts and bolts).

can someone fix this link? www.walmart.com/catalog/p...iameter=14

Yeah, Thats it..... The ones I have in my garage with 4.75 BS. But I think for now I was going to keep the Retro Chrome on mine for the BlingBling......

Can anyone else hear the CV axles screaming in pain!

This should help explain it: http://www.skulte.com/adapterfaq.html Theres lots of info out there on the web. some better than others. The link I posted above I just quickly found and linked to. Just use you favorite search engine and search under "backspacing offest" And no the terms are not interchangeable. Backspacing and offest are totally different. Backspacing is the distance from teh inside edge of the rim to the mounting surface. Offest is the amount teh wheel mounting surface is offset from the center line of the rim.

The rims that I have that are 15x6 with 4.75" of BS are STOCK 4wd Toyota Steel IFS rims. They came on 86-95 Toyota Trucks (non-Tacoma). BTW 86 was the first year for IFS. There are atleast two versions of these rims. One is painted gray and the other is Chrome. I have the gray ones on my datsun trailer and I have a set of chromes one that will go on the subie. Solid front axle 4wd Toyotas (79-85) rims have less backspacing than the IFS trucks. I believe they are 4" to 3 1/2" but I don't remember. Anyways they are somewhere in that range. Those rims arm also painted gray and look real similiar to the IFS trucks.

I think the least BS Ive ever seen was 3 1/2" on a factory 6 lug wheel. If you call up Summit, they can sell 15" US steel rims with 2" of Backspacing. (Alot of rockcrawler guys use them.) That or you can just install wheel spacers. I've run 2" wheel spacing on my Yota for several years now with no problems.....

The stock toyota IFS 15x6 steelies that I'm planning on running have 4.75 of BackSpacing just for reference. as for actual fitment I haven't gotten that far.......

I just found some Toyota IFS rims. They are 15x6 with 4 3/4" of BS. I'm planning on running some 30 x 9.50 BFG MT that are about 1/2 worn out and they measure 29" in Diameter on a 4" Lift for a 87 Wagon. I also have some 235x75x15 Goodyear Wranger AT and they are about 95% brand new and measure 29" in Diameter.

Have you seen these: Online portions of the FSM? http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142

I just stumbled across this on the web. http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Axle_Gear_Ratios_Main.htm It shows the available gear ratios for all different makes/models of vehicles. Looks like 3.90 gears in the Tacomas are pretty common!!! Still not sure if its available in the 8" E-locker or just the 8.4 Taco rear end. But both have aftermarket gears and lockers for them!! I wonder if I can find a Taco with 3.90 gears in the rear axle at my local wrecking yard for Cheap. And I also found this which is a identification chart for Toyota model numbers..... http://www.off-road.com/toyota/taco/tech/axle/axlecodes.html http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

True but thats what my 4runner is for with its 223:1 crawl ratio. I just thinking for my use that 6-8" of lift with dual case is more than I want to put into a subie right now.

I don't know? never tried since its under the carpet. on my Toyota I can usually peel or chip that crap away. also a wire wheel might get it off I haven't welded on a Subie YET, But on my Toyotas I've done way too much of it. I just a 110 MIG with 75/25 Argon/CO2 Mix with .023 mild steel wire. With my Linclon its on B-3 works pretty good. Teh settings are from A-D and 0-10 if that helps. Then you just do a bunch of spot weld over lapping each other. and don't stay in one place for too long. Say 1" at a time and then skip 4" down the panel. The keey is going nice and slow. See above....