Joey Joe

My moms boy friend bought a sube and found out it needed a new turbo, I have a great one I was going to sell him. His car is a GL 10 turbo I think an 87 or 88, his mechanic said there is a specific turbo for this car and they are not universal, mine fits my 90 loyale and I am about 100 percent sure it would fit his but I wanted to double check. Thank YOU

Yes I am talking about where the suspension control arm mounts to the engine cross member, I didnt know it was replacable, thank god. So I will go to a junk yard and ask them for the engine cross member. I imagine I am going to need remove the engine weight from the cross member, can I jack it up or do I have to use a hoist. Any other tips would be appreciated but this sounds like one of those figure it out as I go jobs.

SO how hould I go about fixing the bent A-arm mount, I did not know there was a way to fix it once it was bent. Can it be replaced some how, obviously I can not bend it back.

The right A-arm mount is a little less than an inch pushed in, due to a curb impact on the front right tire, because of this, the tire is about an inch off from straight up and down. This problem caused the front hub and axle to destroy them selves, causing me to start lookin for a new rig.

My 90 loyale turbo spfi subaru has a bent frame, there is no way to fix this as far as I know unless I want to pay big bucks, am I right? The engine is awesome, it has 40,000 miles on it and a lot of power, so I want to use the engine for my new subaru. I am looking for a subaru with everything in good shape, less the engine, so I can swap it in. What are my options for a good subaru to put this engine into. I am assuming I need one with a very similar wiring harness and also fuel injection set up. My question is should I be looking for a subaru that is a turbo and fuel injected so that the wiring and fuel systems match, or can I put this engine into other cars that, for example werent spfi/turbo, without having to do a lot of wiring or excessive work to make it run. Basically, what range in year/make/model am I dealing with. Thank You Joe

There should be 2 bolts you need to unscrew,one near the lowest point of the alternator and one closest to the drivers side, youlll see them. Then move the alt enough to pull the belts off.

yeah, it is bald on the outside due to the angle.

Taco'd is fairly relative isnt it. The bottom part of the tire is angled slightly toward the car and the top part is slightly away. I am talking less then an inch off of perfect though, but it is still there. Just remembered the part is a strut and I am going to get one from aaron's auto wrecking tomarrow. It is the only peice I havent replaced on the entire passenger front end and the frame is not bent so I think this is the problem. How hard of a job is replacing the strut? Any tips I should know. Thank you in advance

The passenger side wheel on my 90 loyale is ever so slightly taco'd. I have replaced everything except since the incident that could have been bent except the spring/shocks I am not sure the correct term. It is the long tube with a coil spring that the knuckle slips in to. Could this be the peice that is making it taco slightly. It is just barely taco'd I had to sit and look at it from all sorts of angles a bunch of times to come to the conclusion

I say do that, it will take 20 minutes

Could be disk brakes as well

my 90 loyale turbo does 100 +, no problem, just the suspension doesnt like it.

X-tera = FUGGLY

Definately blead the brakes. Layale parts are not hard to find. Find a good junk yard, but napa can order most parts.

When this happened... Did the motor run different after it started smoking? I am assuming the smoke was burnt oil but what did it smell/look like? Have there been any problems in the recent past? Are ther any oil leaks on the engine right now that you can find? Basically give as much information as possible and you will get much more information back. Since there was still oil pressure the engine is probably fine, assuming that whatever caused this problem is fixable.

Cleaning the switches worked. When I took it apart, eveything fell out and there was a moment of panic but once cleaned and back together the window is alive

thanks, I will be doing these things tomarrow

I have searched but haven't had any luck. Left rear window on my 1990 subaru loyale is stuck down. There are 4 switches on the driver door to control the windows, using these switches the passenger side windows will go down but not up. They will go up if the switch adjacent to that window is used. The window that is stuck down went down but wouldnt go back up, I kept lowering it to see if I could get it to go up afterwards and each time I tried I could tell it was loosing power until the window would not go down or up. So now it is stuck half way. I am only concerned with the window stuck down but think the problems could be linked. Does anyone have any idea what this most likely is? Thank you for your time

You guys are right. They were way too loose, no popping as of now. Thanks

I just installed two new axles on my 90 loyale. After I installed them the car felt a little different under acceleration, it felt like something was shuttering slightly. Its been about 2 weeks now and there is a reacurring popping that I beleive is coming from the outer passenger wheel/hub/axle assembly. I can feel the popping through the brake pedal and it is quite loud. The strange thing is that it is reacurring but not consistent and has not been of to much concern to me until now. Last night driving home from work I was about to pull over and call a friend for a ride but it calmed down, now today I drove it around the block to try and figure out what it might be and it was harldy making a noise. When I would down shift roughly and let the clutch out the shaking of the car would cause the pop again but it was nothing like last night. Could it be wheel bearings? I think mine are old. Any help would be much appreciated.

So I should get a craftsman 3/16 drift punch and possibly a 12" extension, remove the starter and pound the pin the opposite way the drill bit went in. Will these tools be at napa or more likely sears or a place like that.

I meant that if I could strike at it from the top through the engine compartment I could get 2 3 times more force on the swing then from underneath, theres just not enough room to get a good swing. I have the pin a quarter inch out and filled the quarter inch of space the pb blaster and am going to drive to work tomarrow and in the evening I will give it a wirl again. Atleast the axle that is stuck in their still operates fine it is just noisey and causes a bit of drag.

I ffound an allen wrench that seems to be strong enough, it has not moved it yet but it hasnt borken either. I have been going at it from the bottom due to the starter on the drivers side obstructing the top. Can I remove the large extending peice of the tranny that is under the starter easily, or is it solid. If i could get at it from the top I think I could pop it out. Thank you all

I would love that part number, I just broke a axle pin punch in like 5 minutes of pounding and have been spraying pb blaster all over it. I have a quarter inch of play in either direction but once it goes that far it doesnt budge.

What kind of an error would the power light indicate, becuase mine flashes sometimes.