idosubaru
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Posts posted by idosubaru
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Taking it apart - can you check continuity from the connector wiring harness side to a point on the circuit board of each pin as far down stream of the connector as possible. maybe also why wiggling or pressing it to the side so to speak.
If you have access to any used Subaru parts All 1995-1998 4 cylinder 2.2 liter and 2.5 liter, Outback legacy Forster Impreza TCUs all readily swap.And 99 Outback’s and Legacys. I think even a FEd TCU is plug and play lol
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just putting this here for my own reference, but something like this in the right size, this is too big:
https://www.akr-performance.com/p/srs-exhaust-donut-flange-pipe-635mm25-flange-a
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I want to keep the stock exhaust manifold/header and replace the rest. Is there a flange adapter that bolts up to the stock header and donut gasket?
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Read the owners manual. You can run any reasonable oil. It would be fine. I’d probably avoid 5W on EA engines but for no reason. For what it’s worth GDs shop superior in Portland runs 5w-40 synthetic as a rather standard oil for various non turbo applications, I think including EA engines. Of course hotter temps will be less ideal for thinner oils and that’s a good reason to check the manual like prior post mentions.
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10 hours ago, ThosL said:
The engine is running fine. 260k or so miles. Shifting very rough; tranny fluids are fine. Must be solenoids from all I see online.
Are there any engine codes (check engine light)? Not saying this to be mean but for clarity: running well isn’t important - are there any check engine engine lights or codes?
Check if the ATF pan is dented. It can cause problems much easier than a dented engine oil pan.
You can attempt to extract the AT codes:
some newer Subarus like 2005 ish I think but I forget the years, I have a very easy way to read the codes without any scanner. Not sure it applies to 2002
or the classic schizophrenic multiple personality disorder meth smoking strategy Subaru employed here which you can do yourself with no scanner:
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Check the ATF fluid level.
Are there any engine codes?
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On 2/17/2024 at 11:12 AM, 88SubGL said:
Now’s the time to sell! Haha
Why’s that? I’ve got three to unload hope you’re right.
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12 hours ago, Norris said:
The differencial in question here that has the 3.08 gear ratio
How do you know it’s 3.08? Where did that number come from?
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If it has the OEM code (or part number?) on it can you post the number or put the number into a Subaru online parts website and see what comes up?
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10 hours ago, Twitch de la Brat said:
Lol, I got rid of the car
But mine was also trim catching on the top rear corner of the window.
Twitch
Yeah I have seen (and heard, CLICk!) the trim do that as well.
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24 minutes ago, ThosL said:
Changing the fuel filter made no difference.
It usually doesn't. I've never seen a Subaru have any change of driving due to replacing a fuel filter.
24 minutes ago, ThosL said:Very likely the MAF sensor is at fault as the vehicle is bogging down as I said and bucking from time to time.
On 2/14/2024 at 6:34 AM, idosubaru said:if you have a spare MAF, swap it to test that
It might not be it, but it's the one EJ25D vehicle sensor I've seen cause issues but not throw a code.
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On 1/30/2024 at 4:00 PM, scoobydube said:
How about bent frame from going airborne?
Well…maybe the miles of rough gravel roads daily commute
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5 hours ago, Twitch de la Brat said:
Ok, so I had a similar issue in my '86 XT Turbo. The driver's side door wouldn't align perfectly. Part of the door shutting issue came from the door trim catching the upper corner of the door glass. In addition to the door sag. It was a weird conglomeration of door sag but the upper corner sticking high enough to interfere. It came from the door and sunroof creating a combination of sag and upward angle. Might be worth a look.
Twitch
What did you do to fix it?
Im nearly positive mine is sag. I can hear it hitting the striker low and doesn’t appear to be any interference around the edges.
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On 2/14/2024 at 10:18 AM, Daskuppler said:
I got a hold of the manager, tow truck showed up this morning and it's already in a bay. Hopefully it's as simple as just tightening a couple bolts.
Eventually you’ll have more miles than trips to the shop on this car. ?!?!?!?!? Lol SMH
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Yeah you can just spray carb cleaner or startintbfouod around all the hoses with the engine running and listen to the engine. If it sucks any in due to a leak you’ll hear the engine respond immediately. im sure you can google it.
fuel pressure. Just need to hook up a pressure gauge into the rubber line by the drivers side fender well. Subaru doesn’t have an existing port to check it. You just have to Tee into it.
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probably need to test for a vacuum leak not look for one
check the timing belt belt alignment and pulleys
check fuel pressure
if you have a spare MAF, swap it to test that
clogged cats can glow red - look at it after driving.
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13 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
Here's a video...
It's getting worse, I'm assuming they forgot to torque the steering column brace, but I don't dare tear anything apart and get blamed for whatever else they have messed up or forgotten to do.
Wow, I imagine they'll jump right in and fix that. Seems like it had to be something that happened during that job.
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Lean fuel - check for a vaccuum leak in the engine bay.
Does it do all the time, once in awhile, only at start up, on highway, driving slow....?
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excellent news on no surgery.
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Front inner axle joints. Aftermarket axles highly suspect. Might get away with regreaseing the joints but simpler to get some used Subaru axles.
Front diff can do it too but I’d expect you to tell the difference.- 1
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I've seen the P0026 P0028 go away just by changing the oil filter numerous times. As a matter of fact I think every single time I've seen those codes they went away with a new oil filter. They're very sensitive to the filter, particularly H6 engines, even Subaru filters. Of course you'll just do a proper oil change, sounds like it's waaaaaay overdue, but thought I'd let you know what I've seen. Good chance the AT code just goes away due to being an artifact of multiple start attempts or the other two codes.
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Tough call. First make sure it’s blown.
Local is nice for an FB for the easier warranty and potentially look up the VIN to see if it has any oil consumption or valve spring repairs/warranty/recall, maintenance history. But I’d be fine with JDM too.
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On 1/27/2024 at 9:26 AM, Daskuppler said:
Started it this morning and it poured oil from both sides, top and bottom of the heads....
Sounds like HG not fitted in proper orientation. They only install one way and can’t be flipped front to back or top to bottom.
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On 1/25/2024 at 10:28 PM, Daskuppler said:
Picked up the car today. Heater didn't work. I figured they forgot to clip in the temperature control cable behind the glove box... Turns out they broke the clip, ziptied it and it didn't work...
What a saga! ?
08 Legacy Outback PO026, PO028, PO700
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I don’t know either. It’s my understanding it should run but I haven’t investigated it.